137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-21-2014, 08:14 AM
#6767
For the push, try less trail (first 3mm, then 2mm) and 1mm washer on the front inner ball stud t. If it gets twitchy add ackerman by going to 1mm on the rack. Also, flip the rear hub insert to the down position and try 1mm on the inner ball stud or no washer. Battery up front. Between all of this and black front springs my B5 most definitely is not pushy if I don't want it to be.
03-21-2014, 08:56 AM
#6768
Yup, tell me about it. Thus far, the only batteries I've found to be worth the coin are Venom and Track Power. Both those brands maintain their punch and to this point have not swelled. Have a few friends with Turnigy Nano LiPo's and they are as advertised. Solid, well finished packs that perform well and you can buy 2-3 packs for the price of some other brands.
03-21-2014, 08:57 AM
#6769
Tech Rookie
For people who switched to 3mm trailing axle, Did you also adjust the Ackermann with 1mm on the steering rack and center the caster block with 1mm shims (front & Rear) as per the instructions?
Was curious how important it is to do all three adjustments for 3mm trailing Axle or leave the rack at 2mm for now?
Have people gone to 0mm on the rack with 3mm trailing axle. Does the B5 like more Ackermann?
What has testing shown for people playing around with the front end.
Was curious how important it is to do all three adjustments for 3mm trailing Axle or leave the rack at 2mm for now?
Have people gone to 0mm on the rack with 3mm trailing axle. Does the B5 like more Ackermann?
What has testing shown for people playing around with the front end.
03-21-2014, 09:12 AM
#6770
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
That's strange that so many of you have had issues with your Reedy packs - I've had my shorty for 2 years & picked up a lightly used saddle pack for my B5 and have always found Reedy packs to be strong packs, albeit, at the top of the battery pricing scale - so far for me, they've been well worth it.
I doubt I run as often as you fellas however. It may be spring, but I have not put away my snow shovel yet.
I doubt I run as often as you fellas however. It may be spring, but I have not put away my snow shovel yet.
03-21-2014, 09:50 AM
#6772
It's a misunderstanding of how it works is all. You can have your Orion R10 set with boost and timing, but once you set it to Mode 4 or no boost/timing mode, you still have no boost or timing regardless if you see in the window that those settings are still set.
It's easy to test to if your the owner. set it for a lot of boost and timing and set to mode 1 (non blinky mode), run the car. It will be very fast.
Then set to mode 4 (blinky mode), without touching the boost or timing, and your car is now blinky mode and much slower than before, regardless if you see it shows the previous settings for boost and timing.
People think its a cheat, but it isn't. LOL!
If it blinks once you apply throttle and keeps blinking, then that is non-boost or timing mode, or BLINKY mode and it is legal for stock.
It's easy to test to if your the owner. set it for a lot of boost and timing and set to mode 1 (non blinky mode), run the car. It will be very fast.
Then set to mode 4 (blinky mode), without touching the boost or timing, and your car is now blinky mode and much slower than before, regardless if you see it shows the previous settings for boost and timing.
People think its a cheat, but it isn't. LOL!
If it blinks once you apply throttle and keeps blinking, then that is non-boost or timing mode, or BLINKY mode and it is legal for stock.
03-21-2014, 09:53 AM
#6773
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Wheels
Is anyone out there running Proline wheels? Looking at them vs. the JC's, they seem to have a nice inset for the wheel nuts - one less thing to catch on a tube/track marker!
Is there a specific 7mm wrench that works best for them? Some wrenches don't fit into the recess to grab the nut properly.
Lastly, and this sounds dumb, but has anyone had issues gluing JC rubber to Proline wheels? No fitment issues? Yes, all of the tires now a days are 2.2, but when you mix and match rubber tires and plastic wheels, well, I dunno if JC sat there and designed their tire to fit all wheels or simply their own (& vice versa with other manfu.).
Is there a specific 7mm wrench that works best for them? Some wrenches don't fit into the recess to grab the nut properly.
Lastly, and this sounds dumb, but has anyone had issues gluing JC rubber to Proline wheels? No fitment issues? Yes, all of the tires now a days are 2.2, but when you mix and match rubber tires and plastic wheels, well, I dunno if JC sat there and designed their tire to fit all wheels or simply their own (& vice versa with other manfu.).
03-21-2014, 10:01 AM
#6774
actually, in the picture of the rear stud mount, the aluminum piece looks to me to have a lower mount point by 1 mm over std plastic. Thus I translate the picture to show him having 2mm at that point. But that's only my observation...
Others are right. These pictures could have been taken during 1st round or practice to show off the new money makers.
Others are right. These pictures could have been taken during 1st round or practice to show off the new money makers.
03-21-2014, 10:13 AM
#6775
I am going with what Sean Cochran says he works for Team Associated (he took over for Mike Reedy when he retired!), and I experienced exactly what he said the problem would be with running incorrect tower/arms. If whatever setup worked for your bud, great.
Have fun with your B5m
Have fun with your B5m
03-21-2014, 11:08 AM
#6780
Anyone know if these ball cups will work for the offset cups on the steering spindles?
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ic-Rod-End-Set
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ic-Rod-End-Set