Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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#6676
Tech Master
Buggy: B5M
Good
Radio: Aitronics MT4 (any suggestions for lipo for transmitter?)
Go for the newer MT4-S as someone pointed out before me.
Batteries: Promatch Shorty
Good
Battery Charger/Power Supply: Icharger 206B Ticket Combo
Good choice, but you *may* want to consider a dual port charger like the 308 if you think you might be running more than one class.
ESC: Hobbywing Justock
I'd go for the Stock Spec, myself
Motor: Schurspeed 17.5
Good
Gearing: (any suggestions?)
Try 31-33/69
Steering Servo: Savox SC-1258TG
I like XP servos myself
Tires: Dirt Web - Gold
Good
Spare Parts: (any suggestions?)
Arms, shocktower, caster blocks. You should be able to get most parts at your track if you break.
Spare Fastener Kit: (any suggestions?)
Shock Oil: (any suggestions?)
Setup Tools: (any suggestions?)
I like the Hudy offroad setup system myself. Other's may not, but I find it useful.
Tools/Allens/Wheelnuts: Was thinking MIP (any suggestions?)
MIP or Hudy. IMHO.
Body Paint: Tamiya
Thanks in advance for your help! Let me know if you think I would need anything else. The only thing I really have already is a soldering iron.
Chassis protector.
Good
Radio: Aitronics MT4 (any suggestions for lipo for transmitter?)
Go for the newer MT4-S as someone pointed out before me.
Batteries: Promatch Shorty
Good
Battery Charger/Power Supply: Icharger 206B Ticket Combo
Good choice, but you *may* want to consider a dual port charger like the 308 if you think you might be running more than one class.
ESC: Hobbywing Justock
I'd go for the Stock Spec, myself
Motor: Schurspeed 17.5
Good
Gearing: (any suggestions?)
Try 31-33/69
Steering Servo: Savox SC-1258TG
I like XP servos myself
Tires: Dirt Web - Gold
Good
Spare Parts: (any suggestions?)
Arms, shocktower, caster blocks. You should be able to get most parts at your track if you break.
Spare Fastener Kit: (any suggestions?)
Shock Oil: (any suggestions?)
Setup Tools: (any suggestions?)
I like the Hudy offroad setup system myself. Other's may not, but I find it useful.
Tools/Allens/Wheelnuts: Was thinking MIP (any suggestions?)
MIP or Hudy. IMHO.
Body Paint: Tamiya
Thanks in advance for your help! Let me know if you think I would need anything else. The only thing I really have already is a soldering iron.
Chassis protector.
#6678
Narth
don't think so , the gulls got shot down and were moving on .lol
Get to use today after work for me.
The change will lower the front shocks a little though.
But think it will loose low speed steering.
will let everyone know how it worked.
Myself am quite happy with the B5r arm & tower.
don't think so , the gulls got shot down and were moving on .lol
Get to use today after work for me.
The change will lower the front shocks a little though.
But think it will loose low speed steering.
will let everyone know how it worked.
Myself am quite happy with the B5r arm & tower.
#6679
a guy at the track bought one. after he installed it, the steering rack came in contact with the servo case
#6680
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
That's odd. I built a B5R just for nights when we run the track wet, the first night of every new layout.....tonight actually! Anyway, I had a Savox 1258 laying around, so I used it, and its fine. No rubbing, no glitching, no brown out. I'm running a D3.5 17.5 & Orion R10 speedo.
#6681
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Chalk me up to someone who does not like it light. I took both of my cars to LRH tonight. Added the Pucks system, milled motor plate, cut gears, all plastic suspension mounts, borrowed a set of broken in tires to try, and the thing still would go tail happy on me. Took my Shurr Speed out and put it in the mod car with all of the aluminum stuff in it was stuck to the track. Did not notice any appreciable speed decrease, and motor only came off 5 degrees warner which topped off at between 145-150 depending on run time. I wont be putting all of the stock stuff back in, but will definitely be running the stock top shaft instead of aluminum, will throw the aluminum hubs back in there, getting rid of the cut gears as well. I like the car better a bit butt heavy.
#6683
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
YeH. It was super tail happy yesterday. Mod car with the stock stuff plus the aluminum pieces were much better for LRH layout. The B5R would have been even better. New layout has a bunch of odd camber 180 degree turns and really does not have enough flow for carrying the corner speed necessary for mid motor designs to really shine. A guy with a rear motor 22 2.0 was tearing it up.
#6684
Tech Apprentice
Broke a rear arm tonight, thought it was odd. wasn't even a big spill, must have had a crack in it from my last run.
Anywho, timing was right as I was toying with the idea of putting the RM arms on it, so I did that, easy enough. Im not good enough to know if I actually notice a difference but the placebo effect was great!!
Anywho, timing was right as I was toying with the idea of putting the RM arms on it, so I did that, easy enough. Im not good enough to know if I actually notice a difference but the placebo effect was great!!
#6686
Looking for someone that has a b5m chassis already made up in solid works that can send it to me please. Thanks!
#6688
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I was thinking about going from 3-2 to 3-1. I fould like more forward drive coming out of the corners. I am hoping the car will square up better. going to try the .5 inserts also. The 3-1 will take away some of the plushness in landings, so unsure if I want to do that.