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Old 07-27-2014, 06:04 PM   #6376
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traxxas makes a thin motor heak sink that may work should fit under motor guard i will try next week.
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:06 PM   #6377
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If you want to lighten up your car you can get it pretty close to 1500g without spending much. I just went through this exercise. If your running a 17.5 you can get away with an SMC 3500mah lipo....50-60 grams. Then do a slipper eliminator, aluminum top shaft, cf battery strap, aluminum screws, ti turnbuckles & axles, aluminum wheel and slipper nuts. You'll be right there. Look back a couple of pages. I blinged my car out and weighed everything as I changed it. The aluminum ft mods look great but add weight. I found my b5m to be best on our sugared blue groove track with a little weight.
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:14 PM   #6378
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Originally Posted by wstuart View Post
I don't know about that. It's probably because I race stock, but lighter has always been faster for me. I'm down to 1460 race weight. I had to go to softer spring more oil and lower roll centers but it is faster.
The difference for me is easly seen by observing my top 5 & top 10 lap times.


Don't believe, but weight under the battery will be popular and common soon.
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:40 PM   #6379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
The difference for me is easly seen by observing my top 5 & top 10 lap times.


Don't believe, but weight under the battery will be popular and common soon.
We have been doing it in Aus before the brass blocks were available. Even in the B5r it was a big difference.
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:46 PM   #6380
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Andrew

I rarely come on here and get to give such a great speed trick .

The weights location lowers the CG and boy ! Sure smooth's out the car.

Have you tried the brass arm mounts ?
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Old 07-27-2014, 06:49 PM   #6381
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I run these and a couple guys at the track do too. More exit speed when coming out of turns.
The offset bushing will help add or take away steering when changing the height of the axle.
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:25 PM   #6382
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Try it out for your self, learn how it feels on the track.

When you try it out note how much more difficult accelerating out of the corner with the axle raised.

I don't notice any issues accelerating with the axle up.
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:57 PM   #6383
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PLEASE BE ADVISED BAD DRIVING TO FOLLOW. lol I decided to run both my MM and RM cars in mod tonight. Both cars gave me issues, but the issues were different. I ran the MM in heats 1 and 2, then switched to my RM car in the main. I used the same motor and same tires. The RM car pushed but was easier to drive and gave me a higher consistence and was .75 seconds faster per lap for a top 10 lap average. The top 5 averages were about the same. My hot lap came from the B5M, but is was a hand full to drive. Tons of steering and very twitchy. A poorly adjusted slipper in my RM car, made anything that needed instant power a fail. You will see me struggling with the step on step off and the short run up double on the right. I am still unsure which car I like the best. The MM is fun to drive and it is very aggressive and corners on a dime, but feel very unstable on jumps. Anyway, enjoy the poor videos of my poor driving.

BTW. I was runnign with Spencer Rivkin, Tanner Denny and Tommy Hinz. So of the 5 drivers in mod, 3 are factory team drivers....lol. Also, I may have punted them at one time or another...oops my bad.
A Main Pink B5 ream motor car
http://youtu.be/sreCdc5yjBQ

Qual 2 green/purple B5M... Also, I was a lap slower than my first qual with the MM car. The rear was loose.
http://youtu.be/XcfymT7wBto
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:22 PM   #6384
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hey wildcat..
I thought you said your mm car pushed? that's why I said try swaybar.. did not look like it was pushing.

To me it looks like your trying to drive your mm car like a rm car. I know this may sound weird but you need to drive a mm car more like a onroad car.. smooth out your corners and carry that speed. I think you could have been much faster with the mm but it looked like you were trying to square your corners like in a rm car.

I would smooth out the mm car a little and make it not so aggressive.. your skills are not to that point yet for super aggressive. focus on hitting your lines and smoothing out your driving a little to. You will find it easier to clear the jumps and faster through the corners.

remember you have 1 or 2 big jumps but 10-15 corners.. if you can work on your corner speed you will increase your lap times dramatically.. don't worry about clearing the biggest jump as you may gain a 1/2 second by doing that.. if you can gain even a quarter second on each corner you will be 3-5 seconds a lap faster.
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:25 PM   #6385
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nono, my mm has crap tons of steering lol. I have to find the right tire combo to calm it down. I was running grey fronts and white rears with 1.6 f/r and 35/3.2 oils


Yeah, probably on the driving style... I mean its been 25 year of RM driving, lol. I like the MM car, and I definitely dont feel comfortable with it. Haha, I am have been trying to make it push, the car just turns on a dime. I was not trying to make huge time on jumps. Didnt even try the triple much. At some point I started to screw around by trying to double singe the step on step off, lol. I was playing with lines and seeing what the car could and could not do. And honeslty, I think the servo is too fast. .06 might be a bit much, lol. I was playing with DR in practice to help me with my over steer, it was good, but made low speed corners feel sluggish.
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Old 07-27-2014, 09:30 PM   #6386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbie_gtc View Post
I don't notice any issues accelerating with the axle up.


Its a suddle change for sure. Still raised offers more on power steering coming out of the turn ...

For myself the car feels looser coming out on the exit from the steer, middle on the steer block is smoother.

you should flip back & forth & observed the difference .
Its mostly coming out of sharp slower turns you can appreciate he difference.
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:43 PM   #6387
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hey wildcat...

ya I could tell it has tons of steering...

ok.. here this might help. I know this sounds opposite of what you may think.. but going to a softer front and rear spring will slow the cars reaction.. and also depending on your temps outside there.. maybe go up to 37.5 in front and 35 in back but leave the same pistons.. use the inside holes on arms both front and back.. this also changes the leverage points and slow the cars reaction both front and back.. go inside on shock towers as that will make it more progressive in the suspension and feel better on jumps.

use the 25 deg. front block.. if you have the 30 on there it quickens the steering feel.

in back run your hubs forward.. this will give the most rear traction and also slow the rotation of the car in the corners allowing you to carve them more. same with running longer rear camber locations.

not sure what motor and gearing your using.. but if your using a shorty battery try running it all way back or with one small spacer behind it. I actually took a extra big pad and cut my own that are half as thick as the small ones for even finer tuning.

also on tire foams.. if your running a closed cell foam it will transfer the energy quicker.. you may try an open cell foam or a 2 stage foam. in fronts I actually really like stuffing in a truck tire foam and I just trim it to the width of the buggy tire first.. this puts more foam in the tire rounding it a little helpin it tract better and smooths out the corner speed even more as it rounds the tire a little more.
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:50 PM   #6388
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oh and congrats to mikey Hudson who just won the nw nct rd 4 series up in Washington.. he beat some of the best drivers in the nw using a b5m . this is only his 4th time driving the car. I helped him get it dialed in and he is loving the car outdoors.
if he hadn't had electrical issues he would have won regionals with the car too.
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:56 PM   #6389
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25+5 caster check
Rear hubs forward check (rm arms)
battery back check
rear shocks inside/inside check
open cell front check
I actually had longer rear camber links and longer fronts. this week I went to the "standard" camber links. I went from +3 to +4 on the spindles to try and calm it down and took the 1.4s out of the front. The car seemed to roll a ton with the 1.4s. I was lifting the inside front wheel.


I will try some of the things you suggested.

interesting going to heavier oil and lighter springs. I see where your going with that.
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:16 PM   #6390
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Twitch,
stiffer rear spring, softer front spring, softer oil in rear or more holes in piston, stiffer oil up front, long wheelbase, battery forward, add weight at the front.

You guys talk about twitch like its the same as removing steering. It's not.
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