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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:08 PM
  #6376  
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Originally Posted by Dagolf
Right on. Would you care to elaborate on this a little? Was your 2.0 mid motor? What key things do you like better about the b5m compared to the 2.0?
The 2.0 was mid motor and had the rocket rc brass upgrades and it was a smooth car but for me I couldn't push it as hard as the b5m. The ae car with very little tuning was faster for me and seams to hold more corner speed and be more forgiving.
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:14 PM
  #6377  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
even tho total volume is larger, turbulent flow becomes the greatest factor in pack. because the holes are smaller they resist the flow of oil from bottom to top. volume flow is not pack, the resistance to flow is pack.

i terms of feel...for example, with a 1.6 piston in the b4.2 i ran 32.5wt in the front, with a 1.7 piston to get a similar on track feel it required 37.5wt to feel stable, but with a 1.4 piston and an additional hole the shock felt the best with a 35wt.

another way to show this is that in the b5m kit, it uses a 1.7 piston in the rear to use the same 32.5wt oil all around, while most people run a 1.6 with 27.5wt in the rear.

and i am not disputing that the 2x1.6 has more pack then the 3x1.4 as it also adds up to slightly more volume then the 2x1.7 as well anyway.

im most likely wrong. but oh well, its a forum not a text book.
I'm most likely wrong. but oh well, its a forum not a text book.

I like that. I may need to steal that one!!!
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:18 PM
  #6378  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
TQ of 17.5 was a MM car so both can work. We have proven time after time that MM works on both low and high bite. Don't believe me....the TQ was from LSR in Sacramento which is low/med bite. It's a personal preference and from what I've seen/read some would rather be told a set up rather than test some things out. The winner of Superstock also from LSR.
I hope to god that every Stock driver in AZ buys a B5M, some of us need a chance.
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:57 PM
  #6379  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Repectfully
Disagree, 1.6 x2 brings even more pack .
Question on holes, wouldn't you take the hole size x number of holes, larger number is less pack and vice versa? So 1.6 x 2 and 1.4 x 3 = 32 and 42, 1.4's would be a lot bigger with more oil passing thru and less pack?
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Old 03-16-2014, 11:00 PM
  #6380  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Ouch, Sponsored by Randy......He is Mr Friendly Himself......
In my eyes he could be the most mizzundastood doods in RC. A long time ago I thought he had pity only for old people like me but I quickly saw he helps the 'kids'(and actually anyone who asks). Damn I wish he would just have loosened up their wheel nuts. He's TQ of the pot stirring

Last edited by Lance Tanner; 03-16-2014 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 03-16-2014, 11:09 PM
  #6381  
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hey jake.. no worries .. its hard to help sometimes as you can only convey so much over a few lines here.. especially without seeing the car.

I was at the track the other day and there was a guy who was saying how much he didn't like how the car handled.. I asked if I could take a look.. he had all his shocks different lengths as when he threaded the ends on he didn't make anything equal. not to mention several other things like one front steering block spacer was behind the block the other infront... I spent 10 minutes on his car and he couldn't believe it was the same car after.

ya the weight bias totally changes with a square or saddle over the shorty.. nomatter where you place the shorty you loose or gain something somewhere as compared to the larger batt... and you only gain a ounce with the bigger batt.
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:21 AM
  #6382  
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diameter to surface area is a more complex equation

1.4mm hole = 1.5393804002589986 square mm of surface area
1.6mm hole = 2.0106192982974678 square mm of surface area

so a 3 hole 1.4mm piston will be about 4.6 sq mm of opening
2 hole 1.6mm piston will be 4.02 sq mm of opening, thusly making the opening smaller than the 1.4mm piston. I used this simple online calc to do the geometetry for me

http://www.onlineconversion.com/circlesolve.htm
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:40 AM
  #6383  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
....
I caught that too
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:24 AM
  #6384  
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In other B5 news I got my JConcepts Silencer back from CR Lovell.



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Old 03-17-2014, 06:41 AM
  #6385  
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[QUOTE=Grasschopper;13102737]Well it was a rough day for my B5. Broke the front shock tower in practice before the heats even started and split the front left shock end in the A Main.

Other options?



TLR 22 shock ends will work. Part number TLR 5095
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:37 AM
  #6386  
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who (company) has a good assortment of metric shims? to do some of these changes I need a stock up on all sorts of shims - i'm a slight stickler on this. Tried the 3mm trailing and ran out of 1mm shims so i had to wing it with the plastic black .80mm hub spacers. ran out of those too.
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:46 AM
  #6387  
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At the Cactus Classic, were all the B5m running the square battery?
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:53 AM
  #6388  
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has anyone tried the gull wings arms on this car yet?
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:53 AM
  #6389  
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Anyone tried the flat arms yet?
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:58 AM
  #6390  
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re: hooking can be caused by a few things. I think most of it in my case is the difference between these pizza cutter panther front slicks and the relatively flat rear panthers. Really want something flatter up front. Also I have been trying to lock in my rear end more since the car drives like a lazy cadillac which requires me to back peddle on the driving a lot compared to my RMs as i was getting the hooking while trying to drive the car through the corner more. For now though, I've mostly eliminated this with roll center changes. also switched to hub BBup and went to short WB. Part of my other problem is the weight transfer to the front end is not exactly fluid. I'm using a shorty and have moved from the back towards the front but the big foam pad is still up front at the moment. I haven't worked on any front shock adjustments outside of moving the bottom to the inside hole, tried out the 3mm trailing which with the unfortunate lack of proper spacers didn't give me a clear concise answer i was looking for. Just too inconsistent. - no fault of the car, just not enough shims on my end!

really just tinkering around right now. car is about bulletproof *KNOCK ON WOOD* Only issues are trying to find the sweet spot on loctite so things stay but don't get stuck in (yes its blue, even an ae bottle!) , and the long long screws. power screwdriver coming this weekend!
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