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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:22 AM   #6346
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What are the reasons for using the offset caster block bushings? What is the change to the car and why?

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...lock-Bushing-4
I run these and a couple guys at the track do too. More exit speed when coming out of turns.
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:23 AM   #6347
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Try it out for your self, learn how it feels on the track.

When you try it out note how much more difficult accelerating out of the corner with the axle raised.
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:24 AM   #6348
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Racing stock ang you get your car to 1500 grams, what shock packages change should be made from stock set up of 32.5 white fronts and green rear?
2x1.6 all around 32.5 front 30 rear. Green or white rears and grey or white fronts. I'm running green rear and grey fronts on a Med to high bite clay track.
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Old 07-26-2014, 09:43 AM   #6349
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fronts look good, just need to get 1.7s out to 1.6 and drop weight on oil.
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Old 07-26-2014, 09:44 AM   #6350
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If I got my car down to 1500g I'd run green/green. I did not like the way my car felt last night with the 3500mah lipo which put me at 1510 or so. I run white/green 37.5/32.5.
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:17 AM   #6351
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I could use some advice. I'm racing today and there is one double that halfway through the qualifier when I start to notice a slight fade and it causes me to just come up a few inches short. I am currently running 34/69. What should I move to for just a hair more top speed? I should note that the current gearing gives me temps of 135 max.
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:49 AM   #6352
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I could use some advice. I'm racing today and there is one double that halfway through the qualifier when I start to notice a slight fade and it causes me to just come up a few inches short. I am currently running 34/69. What should I move to for just a hair more top speed? I should note that the current gearing gives me temps of 135 max.
Increase motor timing, leave gearing alone.
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:01 PM   #6353
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Increase motor timing, leave gearing alone.
I wish I could, but it's all Novak stock system that does not seem to have the timing on the motor. I should of noted that.
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:36 PM   #6354
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I wish I could, but it's all Novak stock system that does not seem to have the timing on the motor. I should of noted that.
In that case, gear up.
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:55 PM   #6355
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I wish I could, but it's all Novak stock system that does not seem to have the timing on the motor. I should of noted that.
If its a Novak SS (Silver can with a purple label) motor with the colored timing ring then you can turn the timing up. Its just not marked on the can. Just loosen the screws as you would for any motor and turn the colored ring.
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Old 07-26-2014, 08:47 PM   #6356
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
are you running +4? or +3?
+4. I'm starting with the stock setup since this is my first buggy ever.

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I will probably get some kickback on this comment but just want to throw this out to all of you.
I own the following offroad AE cars, Rc8.2e, B4.1, RC10 4X4 and now the B5M.
I was always been impressed at Associated's quality, engineering, build plans, but have some criticism on the B5M.

I know it is great to save weight, reduce size but I think the AE crew went too far with the B5M. The 2 biggest problems I have encountered are ones which do not have to be given just a little more room in the chassis and a little more height on the body.
1. If the front area were just a little bit wider, perhaps 10-15mm, I would not have had to buy an extra small reciever to fit along side the ESC.
2. If the body height had been just 10mm higher, I would not have be installing the low profile 4mm battery bullets to keep wire height down so I can fit the body far enough down to velcro it to the sides of the chassis.

I know many will say the engineers put a lot of work into design, but would just a little larger area in these places REALLY matter that much in performance? I am disappointed in how I needed to buy unnecessarily different parts to accommodate this recent build.
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The battery hold down screw posts are what screwed me. I think they're poorly placed.

The manual needs work. It's wrong in a couple of places. I also thing certain things should have better notes.
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:28 PM   #6357
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Like using the B5r plastic arm using the inside hole for the shock on the rear tower.

Redid my oil and bump the rear oil up to 35w for tommorow race.

Using the heavier oil to slow down the roll.

Also

Installing a thin piece of lead under the shorty lining the whole tray.

O yeah , that's right adding weight. Oman.
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:02 AM   #6358
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I've been reading a lot of people adding led underneath the shorty, or weight on the rear tower. But haven't read anything about those running the brass toe blocks.

Are those who are adding weight just trying to add total weight to the car to settle it down, or is it for more rear grip? To me the brass blocks would be the first point of call in my mind. Just looking for peoples opinion as I haven't seen a lot using the brass.
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:05 AM   #6359
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Extra weight ???

More stability & traction for sure..
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Old 07-27-2014, 08:07 AM   #6360
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First day out with the b5m outdoors. The 1.7 tapered worked great. Made a few changes for low traction conditions. Went to zero caster inserts and 3mm trailing axle. Car was amazing.
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