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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-25-2014, 07:51 AM   #6301
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I have not used DR that much. Mostly because my cars are fine and I like to have full lock steering available. I might setup a key to adjust it, just in case. I disable all keys because my 9 year old would hit trim keys while racing and mess the car up. I used to use DR on my sc10 4x4, because of its mechanic gain in steering. what a POS that was.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:26 AM   #6302
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Centro bodies fit...just a slight trim.

The new finnisher body is available now.
Thanks. One guy from the local track said I had to hack it up pretty bad in the back. Didn't make much sense to me because they should be pretty close.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:44 AM   #6303
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Thanks. One guy from the local track said I had to hack it up pretty bad in the back. Didn't make much sense to me because they should be pretty close.
It will work but the B5 chassis is not the same shape & wider then the C4..
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:56 AM   #6304
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Finally started to mod the car. I added a cf battery strap, the aluminum c & d blocks, and aluminum rear ballstud mount and aluminum screws. With the 3500 shortie it weighs 1538g. I was sure that it would be the same as the C&D blocks added some weight but I ended up losing 10-15 grams. Not worth the $100 it cost. If you are a serious racer the stock plastic stuff is your best bet as its lighter. I can't see a functional difference. The CF strap and aluminum screws were decent bang for my buck....the other stuff not so much.

I'm going to go practice a bit and then intall the ti axles, ti turnbuckles, and aluminum steering rack. I run a 20 mil chassis liner so I'm sure that adds a lot of weight. Once I add a slipper eliminator and pucks I'll probably be under weight with the small lipo. FYI, my RB6 is underweight with the small lipo already and it isn't super modded....pucks, CF towers, and CF battery tray/strap. The B5 is a porky beast!
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:11 AM   #6305
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Do YOU REALLY think AE would design a front axle and bearing that didn't work in EVERY KIT??? oh wait they did and now have included proper shims to make it work......
I just bought a B5M kit and it did not include shims. Did AE update the parts so no shim is needed?
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:20 AM   #6306
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Cherry, or anyone with a good setup that will fit my needs.....please read my post on previous page....thanks
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:21 AM   #6307
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I just bought a B5M kit and it did not include shims. Did AE update the parts so no shim is needed?
what shims? I dont recall any shims in the build. Just the plastic spacers for tuning.


And yeah, the b5 is a porker. I think it is the wide alum chassis and beefy arms. The 22 out of the box is lighter also...but they toss on 100 grams, lol.
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:22 AM   #6308
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Cherry, or anyone with a good setup that will fit my needs.....please read my post on previous page....thanks
I would look at the latest mod setup on AE's site. Cherry is doing whack a$$ stuff to his cars. Brent just posted a setup a couple days ago
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:24 AM   #6309
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I would look at the latest mod setup on AE's site. Cherry is doing whack a$$ stuff to his cars. Brent just posted a setup a couple days ago
Yes, THIS. Cherry is running on some insane bite, not like what most of us have/will/do run on. Also, he still runs barcodes front/rear, who does that anymore?
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:43 AM   #6310
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Trcr is med traction to loose as hell on practice days, sometimes really fast on practice but rarely..

Trevor
Already posted the set up were using, but its difficult to make up a set up for some track I never seen or run on .

Take a good look at the images of my ride , has not changed much sense.

Tonight I am experimenting with new stuff.

Just plastic rear arms & using the inside hole on the rear tower.

using

Grey front & white rear spring
4 x 55 piston , front oil 37.5 ,rear oil 32.5

3/0 toe
Hard front arm
Rear hub middle of arm
23.5 ride height

Suggest you try Mo-Grip
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:03 AM   #6311
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what shims? I dont recall any shims in the build. Just the plastic spacers for tuning.
He was saying shims were provided because the crush tube between the bearings in the front hubs were too short.
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:10 AM   #6312
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Ah, I have the OG crush tubes with no issue. Didnt even know AE was shipping out shims
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:33 AM   #6313
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They are shipping wider crush tubes. You can use a shim if you have OG tubes. I lost a set of front bearings with a OG set of tubes from a early kit. I bought a new set of tubes, which were wider, and new bearings.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:39 AM   #6314
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what is the width of the updated crush tubes. I have 2 kits and I am curious to which I have. kinda a pain because I have no idea what the LHS, amain or tower have in stock, lol
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:51 AM   #6315
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Finally started to mod the car. I added a cf battery strap, the aluminum c & d blocks, and aluminum rear ballstud mount and aluminum screws. With the 3500 shortie it weighs 1538g. I was sure that it would be the same as the C&D blocks added some weight but I ended up losing 10-15 grams. Not worth the $100 it cost. If you are a serious racer the stock plastic stuff is your best bet as its lighter. I can't see a functional difference. The CF strap and aluminum screws were decent bang for my buck....the other stuff not so much.

I'm going to go practice a bit and then intall the ti axles, ti turnbuckles, and aluminum steering rack. I run a 20 mil chassis liner so I'm sure that adds a lot of weight. Once I add a slipper eliminator and pucks I'll probably be under weight with the small lipo. FYI, my RB6 is underweight with the small lipo already and it isn't super modded....pucks, CF towers, and CF battery tray/strap. The B5 is a porky beast!
I don't find it all that porky . .. then again I run mod so getting it under 1500 really is not my thing. the point of the aluminum C and D blocks is so you can change squat and rear toe not save weight. I would stick with plastic on most parts if I was serious about cutting weight down. You want to replace steel items with alum items not replace plastic with aluminum to save weight. Keep in mind with the lower weight you run you will need to change your setup.
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