mdowney

iTrader: (21)

Or get the AE version.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Battery-Strap

Blalock

I'm new to racing. Just got my first kit which is the B5. Having a blast putting it together, to be honest it's rather addictive. Does anyone have any advise they would be willing to pass on. It would greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

normally short is used in the rear and long used in the front. but on the b5m i believe the idea is to use long front and rear.

these are parts for other cars too, im sure a t5, sc10-5, b54 are all in the pipeline lol.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Yes.

Make sure your diff is tight enough from the start. Have someone from your track or hobby shop check it before you ever run the car. Should be free advice. This is very important. Better a little too tight than loose.

Run the stock setup for at least 20-30 packs. If you don't know EXACTLY what you want to change, don't till you do. Often a "fast" setup is difficult for those that aren't experience or talented to drive.

Copy the wheel setup of the fast guys. Ask them what insert and just run those tires and inserts. It is the #1 thing that will make your car work or not work.

Don't waste your money on hop ups, EXCEPT get a set of Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles. I ran the stock ones till I had a set and 4 of 6 of the steel were bent and I didn't even know it on 3 of them (1 was really bad!). Other than that the car was so dialed in with the stock parts.

Just run your car a bunch and get used to how it works - dial in the drag brake too. You might be better running no drag brake. It's important to learn how to dial in your brakes pre-heat/main via EPA. This is as important as ANYTHING you might need to learn.

Hope that helps.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

finally got around to building it... just need to settle on the electronics layout, glue some front tires and get some paint done. I think I want to wait for the new Proline bodies though. RM car is just about done too....

lee111m

I personally found that dialing in the brake was probably my second most important thing. First being the tires.

xTotalghost

iTrader: (4)

The phantom body looks SWEET!!!

xTotalghost

iTrader: (4)

Anybody running a chassis protector on the aluminum chassis?

Skeeter36

iTrader: (32)

I am just now building my buggy, anything I should be aware of or change from box stock setup for med -high grip indoor clay type track?

chancejeff

iTrader: (1)

So I just ran stock class on a large indoor track and the mid motor did great. After 5min heats the motor was at 115* degrees. I did change to 1mm spacer in rear inner ball stud and to 3mm trailing insert, but need to change tires. Was so much smoother than my b4.2 and deffinently like the mid motor feel.

BillPear

iTrader: (3)

If you had read your manual, you'd have known you need a matching bushing.

mugenhatchie

Me too. Just got finished running 17.5 and took third in the amain. Only problem I had all night was the car felt like it had a lack if punch. Handled amazing and felt extremely planted. Coming from a b4.2 with all the goodies for 17.5 I was expecting it but I was not prepared for how drastic it was. After the second heat I swapped in my pucks system from my 4.2 and holy cow it came back to life. Really is a great car to drive. This car turns in so fast but keeps its composure. Loving it!!!

Btw to answer someone else's question, I was running a chassis protector but through out the night having to pull the gear box I ripped it off and ran it without. I don't think I'll be putting another one back on. To much of a PITA when you have to work on it. I could see it on the rear motor where the bottom is near screwless but on this car meh.

Picture:

Justinb86

[QUOTE=gticlay;13098122]Yes.

Make sure your diff is tight enough from the start. Have someone from your track or hobby shop check it before you ever run the car. Should be free advice. This is very important. Better a little too tight than loose.

Run the stock setup for at least 20-30 packs. If you don't know EXACTLY what you want to change, don't till you do. Often a "fast" setup is difficult for those that aren't experience or talented to drive.

Copy the wheel setup of the fast guys. Ask them what insert and just run those tires and inserts. It is the #1 thing that will make your car work or not work.

Don't waste your money on hop ups, EXCEPT get a set of Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles. I ran the stock ones till I had a set and 4 of 6 of the steel were bent and I didn't even know it on 3 of them (1 was really bad!). Other than that the car was so dialed in with the stock parts.

Just run your car a bunch and get used to how it works - dial in the drag brake too. You might be better running no drag brake. It's important to learn how to dial in your brakes pre-heat/main via EPA. This is as important as ANYTHING you might need to learn.

Hope that helps.[/QUOT

That's actually the best advice u could probably get. Could be a few other things on top of that. Overall it's solid advice. I wish I would have had that good of advice all in one write up like that. I got similar advice but it didn't sink in right away.

I messed with my set up too much when I first started out. Bought all the best parts. Cranked my boost up too high and drove like a moron. Don't mess with Ur set up till u can drive consistent with out crashing. Ur gonna keep wondering why this or that happened and why u can't drive as fast as the other guys. It's not your set up. It's Ur lack of experience.

I can't believe how many people blame there set up for a bad race when they just drove Like shit. Whe u do get the experience under Ur belt and start changing set up. One change at a time. Make sure u know what effect that change had on Ur car.

Lastly make sure u have the right tires and inserts. Listen to what GTIClay said about the diff. U don't ever want to hear Ur diff slip. There are YouTube videos that will show u what a diff slipping sounds like if u don't know. They also cover slipper slipping and gear mesh being too tight. . Make sure u have the tires right before u even think about changing anything.

Tradin Paint

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for your insight. I did read my manual during assembly and the assembly instructions did not mention anything regarding the FT aluminum bushings let alone the bushing inserts.

Wild Cherry

Just punch it...