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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:05 PM   #6106
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Started building my son a matching B5m. He has been pounding out the last few races like a champ with his Centro at JBRL. He broke two arms this weekend a few other things started to give out, going to keep C4.2 for his back up. He is jazzed about stepping up to B5m, got it decked out, going to start with flat arms and see how it does for him though mine is gullwing. Should have him down around 1500 for stock with the 155 gram battery and all the goodies. Started to build it last night got to differential and hit the sack. Going to be best car I have built to date right from the get go. Not that he needs that nice of a car but so fun to build a nice new car all shiny and purty.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:59 PM   #6107
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Installed the schelle.... nice quality product - now my slipper actually slips.

Also got to the bottom of my diff problems, it was just simply too loose. I thought it was plenty plenty tight enough but i finally said screw it and just about locked it down then backed off a bit and now everything sounds way better.

what i learned is the hand test with locking the outdrives in drivers and trying to move the gear by hand. Well I gave it about 1/4 more than I even though it needed and it was still way too lose in the car.
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:51 PM   #6108
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The 4/5mm bullet combo connector weights more too. I was running them but decided to remove them and go with straight 4mm bullets on my B5M and save the 5mm shorty packs for my SC truck. Also the 4/5mm combo plug sticks out and causes fitment issues with the body, and as you mentioned can short if the exposed ends touches something conductive.
Here is what the 4/5mm combo plug looks like. 4mm bullet on one and a 5mm on the other. Weights a lot more since you basically have two bullets on the end of your wire.

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Old 07-18-2014, 10:02 PM   #6109
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I like how the B5/M has beefy ballends but the binding was really bugging me. I polished the balls prior to the build and I put one race weekend on them but as you can see they still bind. Somebody mentioned a ballcap reamer for Helicopters so I checked around and got a set. The issue is the AE stud is 5.5mm and the closest reamer was 5.6mm. I decided to try it anyway, and after reaming the camber links are now bind free. They still feel tight but time will tell if they will stay on as well as the stock cups.


Reamed cups on left, un-reamed cups (stuck) on right.


AE ball stud measures 5.5mm


Reamer measures 5.64mm


Reamers.
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:09 PM   #6110
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Geez removing the two screws from the waterfall provides a ton of rear flex, has anyone tried this?

Is it to much?
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:36 PM   #6111
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Geez removing the two screws from the waterfall provides a ton of rear flex, has anyone tried this?

Is it to much?
I have wheelie popping traction. No need. maybe for looser tracks? Look at the tlr guys. they are back to bolting on the waterfall also. Is it Sunday yet? I wanna race.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:29 AM   #6112
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I have wheelie popping traction. No need. maybe for looser tracks? Look at the tlr guys. they are back to bolting on the waterfall also. Is it Sunday yet? I wanna race.
as long as I am running the right tires for the conditions.... my B5M does wheelies all day long. I have all the aluminum parts available but I like the way the car feels box stock with the right shock package. the aluminum hubs are awesome however. they work well. rear end is more predictable
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:13 AM   #6113
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Geez removing the two screws from the waterfall provides a ton of rear flex, has anyone tried this?

Is it to much?
I loosen all the motor guard screws tonight .
Felt the car handle well.
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:03 AM   #6114
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For those of you trying to drop weight. I did this for more room for my esc/receiver lol. but hey, 22g less is good and a little more rear bias.

these are the things I did to drop weight, also because I like them for performance.

- 3/4 Ti screws (might go to alum) ~15g
- cut battery tray ~22g
- MIP alum topshaft ~5g
- AVID slipper ~12g
- Ti turnbuckles ~6g
- alum pinion
- all alum nuts.


weight added upgrades
- alum rear camber block
- 6x 3x8mm grubs screws in the hubs.

weight of the car. 1594g, lol. wtf. pucks would be another 24g less, but still that would put me at 1570g........wtf is my car so heavy, lol. Funny thing....still lighter than my 22 2.0 by 30 grams......
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:02 AM   #6115
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Shark

Never seen anyone ream their ball cups ...

Why are you doing it ?

Not like the ball cups need , my cups are smooth also all the B5 I have assembled for customers.

Try a shorter Ti rod , the b4 rods are too long and sometimes they punch though and bind the cups....
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:40 AM   #6116
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Shark

Never seen anyone ream their ball cups ...

Why are you doing it ?

Not like the ball cups need , my cups are smooth also all the B5 I have assembled for customers.

Try a shorter Ti rod , the b4 rods are too long and sometimes they punch though and bind the cups....
WC, they were binding badly, and if this was caused by camber links that are too long fine, but I didn't feel like throwing $30 worth of Ti camber links away so I decided to ream out the cups. Smooth as can be now. Thanks for your feedback.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:11 AM   #6117
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Shark
Don't throw away your Ae Ti rods or even ream the cups to make um fit.

Just thread both cups the same .I count the turns just to make sure both are equal. If one cup is threaded more then other can damage the cups .

Think
reaming the ball cups would help if you did punch or damaged the cup while assembling if you don't have any spare cups though.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:12 AM   #6118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Shark
Don't throw away your Ae Ti rods or even ream the cups to make um fit.

Just thread both cups the same .I count the turns just to make sure both are equal. If one cup is threaded l on more then other can damage the cups .

Think
reaming the ball cups would help if you did punch or damaged the cup while assembling if you don't have any spare cups though.
you have my muted, but your wrong and you just keep spreading the lies.
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Old 07-19-2014, 01:11 PM   #6119
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you have my muted, but your wrong and you just keep spreading the lies.
Im with Wildcat on this one (even being totally new to this game) - I busted a turnbuckle and bought shorted ti rods and new cups and there is no way I pushed them through too hard and they bind like hell. While I don't think it affects the suspension in any way they definitely are sticky. This was on a new kit as well as replacement cups fresh off the shelves. They are too tight, and I ordered a reamer to see how that goes.
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:00 PM   #6120
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you have my muted, but your wrong and you just keep spreading the lies.
I'm not sure how you can tell this.. I have trouble just reading and understanding all the broken punctuation and syntax. Many times I just give up trying to understand what he is typing.
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