137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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03-12-2014, 10:17 PM
#6046
Finally, ready for the track! Hope it works as good as it went together
03-12-2014, 10:32 PM
#6047
Looks great! Make sure you locktite the front axle screws and the ball studs on the rear hubs, otherwise you might not make it through your 1st pack.
03-12-2014, 10:48 PM
#6048
03-12-2014, 10:58 PM
#6050
Tech Regular
I had a b4.2 ft for a short time and it got sloppy in the front. How is the plastic on the new buggy? Better or the same?
03-13-2014, 12:39 AM
#6055
Sometimes it isn't about gaining some microscopic amount of speed out of a car. But fine tuning the overall weight of the car I think is the most under-used setup component out there. Heavier cars react slower, but have more grip. Lighter cars have less grip, but react faster. Even in stock, it isn't necessarily about having a car as light as you can get it, it's about having the "right" weight for the track conditions.... sometimes lighter, sometimes heavier.
I have run my stock buggy right at the weight minimum... sure the car feels like im running a 13.5, but the car becomes less predictable, and generates noticeably less traction, all else being equal.
The problem with just swapping batteries, is that unless you have a STACK of them that vary by 10 or 20 grams, it doesn't do you much good to go from shorty to fullsized because that is typically 100grams difference. If you want to change your weight by only 50grams, you gotta drop to a shorty and add 50 grams with something else.
In my experience, heavier cars produce better lap times on loose tracks, and lighter cars produce better lap times on high traction tracks. (if you can handle their snap).
-cpt.
I have run my stock buggy right at the weight minimum... sure the car feels like im running a 13.5, but the car becomes less predictable, and generates noticeably less traction, all else being equal.
The problem with just swapping batteries, is that unless you have a STACK of them that vary by 10 or 20 grams, it doesn't do you much good to go from shorty to fullsized because that is typically 100grams difference. If you want to change your weight by only 50grams, you gotta drop to a shorty and add 50 grams with something else.
In my experience, heavier cars produce better lap times on loose tracks, and lighter cars produce better lap times on high traction tracks. (if you can handle their snap).
-cpt.
03-13-2014, 01:07 AM
#6056
03-13-2014, 02:21 AM
#6058
Tech Regular
03-13-2014, 02:26 AM
#6059
03-13-2014, 04:36 AM
#6060
Hey guys,
First off, thanks to all of you who chimed in this morning mostly on page 102 of this thread, asking questions and wanting to try to help me out. I appreciate it.
First off, yes, I live in Orange County and am more or less in the heart / hub of RC racing land. I see and talk to Steven Hartson when I am out at OCRC; he's a way cool guy, and totally friendly. He answers my questions, comes to say what's up, etc. Kody, Wallnuts, and the other guys are around as well, but I don't see or talk to them as often. Unfortunately most of the AE team left earlier this week for the Cactus Classic race, so I'll have to wait until next week or so to get some more direct in person help.
To be clear: I have plenty of normal traction under all circumstances except the 180's.
Yes... tried my buddy's tires from his Serpent. Front. Rear. Both. His tires were a bit better, but it wasn't a huge difference in the hooking issue.
I'm running no drag brake at the moment, so the rear over rotating isn't from that setting. Good thinking though.
I unexpectedly ended up at OCRC today with my buddy to get some wrenching done on some of my older cars. Lead B5 engineer Bob Stellflue showed up, and we hit him up a bit for some ideas after trying to dial the car in more yesterday at LRH. Even at LRH with their high grip, the car still suffered the same same hooking issue on hairpins / 180's. Although we did make some progress by going to an even softer rear spring, and removing the 2mm washer from the rear inner ball studs.
Also spoke to another AE team driver, and it sounds like moving to a 78 spur so the motor can be pushed further back is what a lot of the guys are already doing, so I'll be trying that when I drive the car again Friday. It was also mentioned to be running oils 32/30 with a saddle, but 30/27 with a shorty.
As suggested, I think I might try laying the rear shocks down a little more to see if that helps as well.
Tropmonkey: I might be @ OCRC Friday. I'll find you to say hi. I usually hang with Kellen.
I'll report back this weekend to see if I got this hooking issue cleared up. That is my only issue with the car.
Thanks,
Jesse
First off, thanks to all of you who chimed in this morning mostly on page 102 of this thread, asking questions and wanting to try to help me out. I appreciate it.
First off, yes, I live in Orange County and am more or less in the heart / hub of RC racing land. I see and talk to Steven Hartson when I am out at OCRC; he's a way cool guy, and totally friendly. He answers my questions, comes to say what's up, etc. Kody, Wallnuts, and the other guys are around as well, but I don't see or talk to them as often. Unfortunately most of the AE team left earlier this week for the Cactus Classic race, so I'll have to wait until next week or so to get some more direct in person help.
To be clear: I have plenty of normal traction under all circumstances except the 180's.
Yes... tried my buddy's tires from his Serpent. Front. Rear. Both. His tires were a bit better, but it wasn't a huge difference in the hooking issue.
I'm running no drag brake at the moment, so the rear over rotating isn't from that setting. Good thinking though.
I unexpectedly ended up at OCRC today with my buddy to get some wrenching done on some of my older cars. Lead B5 engineer Bob Stellflue showed up, and we hit him up a bit for some ideas after trying to dial the car in more yesterday at LRH. Even at LRH with their high grip, the car still suffered the same same hooking issue on hairpins / 180's. Although we did make some progress by going to an even softer rear spring, and removing the 2mm washer from the rear inner ball studs.
Also spoke to another AE team driver, and it sounds like moving to a 78 spur so the motor can be pushed further back is what a lot of the guys are already doing, so I'll be trying that when I drive the car again Friday. It was also mentioned to be running oils 32/30 with a saddle, but 30/27 with a shorty.
As suggested, I think I might try laying the rear shocks down a little more to see if that helps as well.
Tropmonkey: I might be @ OCRC Friday. I'll find you to say hi. I usually hang with Kellen.
I'll report back this weekend to see if I got this hooking issue cleared up. That is my only issue with the car.
Thanks,
Jesse