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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-15-2014, 12:58 PM   #6001
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lol, seriously? That weight was with the vts? wtf am I 1594?

My protek 130ss is 63.8g
The Savox LP is 44.5g, so about 20g less. That is fine. but we are 90 grams apart and I removed the battery strap and foams, lol. That was 20 grams...You saved 20g with the pucks, so that is 40g difference. where the heck is the other 50g, lol. I even have the lighter tq13 awg wire instead of the heavier 12awg wire. my pack is 212g. yours is what 200g?
Wildcat, I just put my buggy back on the scale and it came in at 1544 grams RTR. the only differences from the original 1509 grams I quoted earlier is I have added the chassis protector, some Velcro to hold the body, the battery foams and I may have picked up a little moisture in the tires when I cleaned them yesterday.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:06 PM   #6002
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I weighted the foams last night. Something around 10g. Seems like the chassis tape must be around 20g. I will change a couple more things, but I will be over 1580 no mater what. I suppose for 13.5, that will be fine. If I get back into 17.5, I might get the pucks and try for the mid 1500's. Also, I ahve the alum rear camber block. I never bothered to weight it. I put it on for durability, plus it added weight in the rear. I never broke the plastic one, but I was afraid I would
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:07 PM   #6003
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I'm sure this has been asked 100 times in here before but I couldn't find it in my search. In order to run the B5r arms to get more rear traction am I simply using the left arm on the right side and vice versa? Is there anything else I need to do? Is this still a good way to gain rear traction?
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:13 PM   #6004
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I built my MM with the RM arms. Your arms "might" very slightly rub the chassis at full droop. so you can remove a very little amount of material at the contact point. Otherwise, what you said is correct.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:13 PM   #6005
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Yes reverse um.

Can use plastic or the Hard arms.

Plastic gives the most grip.

Can also try 3/0 rear toe, lighter oil & rear spring
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:19 PM   #6006
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I built my MM with the RM arms. Your arms "might" very slightly rub the chassis at full droop. so you can remove a very little amount of material at the contact point. Otherwise, what you said is correct.
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Sc

Yes reverse um.

Can use plastic or the Hard arms.

Plastic gives the most grip.

Can also try 3/0 rear toe, lighter oil & rear spring
Thanks! Going to try it this weekend.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:28 PM   #6007
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The Tekin ESC is far lighter then any other I have used. I would look into that if you are trying to cut weight. I also like using TQ 13 gauge wire. It's super small.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:28 PM   #6008
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Thanks! Going to try it this weekend.
I would say, I have great traction unless I pick an overly aggressive front tire. IMO, the MM car is way more sensitive to front tire choices.


Speaking of tires. I miss outdoor racing lol. Tire choices and prep were so simple. With indoor wet tracks, so much goes into prepping tires (sauce, tire breakin, slicks etc). You cant just run the same tire as the other guy, you have to prep it like him to get max traction. Tire science for sure. I see guys come on here and say "I have the "hot" tire, but everyone else does wheelies and I spin out". More than likely tire prep is the issue. At least at the new SRS that seems to be less of an issue because traction is naturally occurring and sauce is not needed at all IMO. If anything, you just break in the tires in the street, then they are good to go.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:30 PM   #6009
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hmm, I have some typo clay and SS at home. I will compare later. I knew SS was heavier than Soft, but never really used clay before. The "new" srs might become a clay tire track. Still seems too new to tell. If I could get to 1550-60 without having to change out my electronics or buy pucks, that would be nice
why would you not want to buy pucks? you are looking at 3-4 times the upkeep on stock bones/outdrives
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:31 PM   #6010
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The Tekin ESC is far lighter then any other I have used. I would look into that if you are trying to cut weight. I also like using TQ 13 gauge wire. It's super small.
yeah, I had a tekin gen2. It is very light. But I didnt like the feel at all. I sold it because I didnt even want to subject my kid to that terrible throttle and brake feel. The r10 heavier, but the performance is worth it. I am using my brakes a lot more on these higher bite tracks, and IMO nothing compares to the orion brakes. Not even the HW ones, which are close.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:35 PM   #6011
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why would you not want to buy pucks? you are looking at 3-4 times the upkeep on stock bones/outdrives
well... I like to keep things OEM. Mostly because part are easier to get. That being said, puck are so popular that most of the local shops have the parts. Also, replacing the orange pucks every 2-3 weeks, seems annoying to me. Lastly, I was having issues keeping the rear planted with the pucks. Lost too much rear bite. But, that probably could have been fixed with the brass front suspension holder. Also, I sometime like to wire up a mod motor in my cars and run the mod class, and the alum pucks would not hold up. A MIP driver suggested, the shiney bones and the alum outdrives in those cases with mild mod motors.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:36 PM   #6012
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well... I like to keep things OEM. Mostly because part are easier to get. That being said, puck are so popular that most of the local shops have the parts. Also, replacing the orange pucks every 2-3 weeks, seems annoying to me. Lastly, I was having issues keeping the rear planted with the pucks. Lost too much rear bite. But, that probably could have been fixed with the brass front suspension holder. Also, I sometime like to wire up a mod motor in my cars and run the mod class, and the alum pucks would not hold up. A MIP driver suggested, the shiney bones and the alum outdrives in those cases with mild mod motors.

replacing pucks every 2-3 weeks is less annoying than changing outdrives/bones every 4
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:39 PM   #6013
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replacing pucks every 2-3 weeks is less annoying than changing outdrives/bones every 4
jesus, I dont have that kinda of bone wear. Mine are a few months old and show no "visible" wear from running 17.5. The outdrives are just now starting to show a little wear though.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:40 PM   #6014
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jesus, I dont have that kinda of bone wear. Mine are a few months old and show no "visible" wear from running 17.5. The outdrives are just now starting to show a little wear though.
a few months of once a week racing?

outdrives/bones rarely out last a diff
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:40 PM   #6015
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replacing pucks every 2-3 weeks is less annoying than changing outdrives/bones every 4
if I get the pucks again, I will probably get the Shiny ones because I run a mix of mod and stock.
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