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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-14-2014, 02:07 PM   #5956
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17.5... everyone will say the d4, or the hacker 17.5
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Old 07-14-2014, 03:30 PM   #5957
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17.5 shuur
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:09 PM   #5958
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Speed Passion, makes it easy to switch motors without re-soldering.
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:52 PM   #5959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcopp View Post
What stock motors does everyone use? Ive got a Killshot and am wondering what to put in my RM ( i know its another thread but this one seems to get more traction) also I could put the killshot in my RM and get a new one for MM as well.
LOTS of locals run the hacker. They are no faster than my reedy. But, they do claim their temps are lower. Many of the guys have run trinity, schurrspeed and reedy. But most prefer the hacker. I only run reedy motors. But that is only because I like reedy and the motors are not keeping me from winning
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:25 PM   #5960
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So, I was hating on the MM car late last week. I even thought about selling it. But after, I put a 13.5 in it, I really started to like the car. The track had a high speed sweeper, a 180 and some 90 deg turns. All in all, the car felt pretty good with a 13.5. So that got me to wondering if I would like it 50-75 grams lighter in the 17.5 class. So for not, I think I will shelf the RM car (which is good) and spend more time working with the MM car. The MM car feels like it can have a lot of potential on my local tracks. We have "enough" bite for the MM to shine. IMO, I would still run the RM outdoors in a heart beat. Sorry, but the RM car just works, but the MM car just has a nicer feel indoors on high bite tracks. And IMO, the RM car is harder to drive in mod, lol. Way too easy to wheelie the B5 in mod. The MM car is just easier to drive hard in mod without worrying about traction rolls or wheelies as much. I had my 9 year old record my 17.5 RM and 13.5mm runs in the mains, but the footage is unusable. In 13.5 she mostly filmed a guys butt and in 17.5 she was barely as tall as the boards and you cant see crap, lol.
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:11 PM   #5961
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I've seen a lot of talk about car weight and expense to get it lite.
So I want to post my car and want I have done, which isn't that much.

My car currently weighs 1504g.
I run a Reedy 17.5t and a 602 shorty, 212g.
I have an AE alum top shaft, light motor plate, and Ti turnbuckles.
I'm using a lot of the aluminum screw kit on the car, I have 8 Ti screws on the car. All the nuts on the car are aluminum, various AE part numbers.
All the screws on the bottom of the chassis are still steel.
I used an Avid slipper and I'm using a Spektrum S6070 and SR2000 Rx.

I am not using any hard parts or aluminum upgrade parts. Those only add weight. I also am not currently running the MIP pucks. I did have it but went back to stock parts. I prefer the way the car drives with stock parts.
The only "exotic" parts on the car is Lunsford front axles and a I think 4 Lunsford ball-studs, I had them left over from my SC10 4x4 days.

I decided to do away with the battery strap and other extra battery tray ribs. That is probably the easiest way to remove a large amount of weight for no money. I have gone between servo tape and strapping the battery in, the servo tape is just easiest and cleanest looking. I never take the battery out of the car any way. I have attached a picture of the battery and electronics layout.

I can have a setup posted if your interested but it is pretty normal.
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:52 PM   #5962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
I've seen a lot of talk about car weight and expense to get it lite.
So I want to post my car and want I have done, which isn't that much.

My car currently weighs 1504g.
I run a Reedy 17.5t and a 602 shorty, 212g.
I have an AE alum top shaft, light motor plate, and Ti turnbuckles.
I'm using a lot of the aluminum screw kit on the car, I have 8 Ti screws on the car. All the nuts on the car are aluminum, various AE part numbers.
All the screws on the bottom of the chassis are still steel.
I used an Avid slipper and I'm using a Spektrum S6070 and SR2000 Rx.

I am not using any hard parts or aluminum upgrade parts. Those only add weight. I also am not currently running the MIP pucks. I did have it but went back to stock parts. I prefer the way the car drives with stock parts.
The only "exotic" parts on the car is Lunsford front axles and a I think 4 Lunsford ball-studs, I had them left over from my SC10 4x4 days.

I decided to do away with the battery strap and other extra battery tray ribs. That is probably the easiest way to remove a large amount of weight for no money. I have gone between servo tape and strapping the battery in, the servo tape is just easiest and cleanest looking. I never take the battery out of the car any way. I have attached a picture of the battery and electronics layout.

I can have a setup posted if your interested but it is pretty normal.
It's just that easy.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:06 PM   #5963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Cochran View Post
I've seen a lot of talk about car weight and expense to get it lite.
So I want to post my car and want I have done, which isn't that much.

My car currently weighs 1504g.
I run a Reedy 17.5t and a 602 shorty, 212g.
I have an AE alum top shaft, light motor plate, and Ti turnbuckles.
I'm using a lot of the aluminum screw kit on the car, I have 8 Ti screws on the car. All the nuts on the car are aluminum, various AE part numbers.
All the screws on the bottom of the chassis are still steel.
I used an Avid slipper and I'm using a Spektrum S6070 and SR2000 Rx.

I am not using any hard parts or aluminum upgrade parts. Those only add weight. I also am not currently running the MIP pucks. I did have it but went back to stock parts. I prefer the way the car drives with stock parts.
The only "exotic" parts on the car is Lunsford front axles and a I think 4 Lunsford ball-studs, I had them left over from my SC10 4x4 days.

I decided to do away with the battery strap and other extra battery tray ribs. That is probably the easiest way to remove a large amount of weight for no money. I have gone between servo tape and strapping the battery in, the servo tape is just easiest and cleanest looking. I never take the battery out of the car any way. I have attached a picture of the battery and electronics layout.

I can have a setup posted if your interested but it is pretty normal.
I talked to a guy this weekend and he had the same setup, but he used the brass front hinge pin brace in the rear and the pucks. He was barely over 1500 also. The brass part was to help him get back up to weight and that was the best spot to add the weight. He runs for MIP so the pucks were not going to come out, lol.

I just weighted the batter foams, battery strap and thumb screws. That is 20 grams right there. A little more with the divider gone. Interesting. I already have a bunch of Ti screws above the chassis. The wing mount screws and 1 diff case screws are steel. Would alum screws be that much lighter? I would still be at 1580 is I removed the foams and strap and taped the pack in. I have the alum topshaft, alum 22 bones, avid slipper and no alum parts or hard parts either. Pull sized servo, so +20 grams there. But I could live with 1540 even. My rm car is 1550 and it has tons of power with a 17.5.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:19 PM   #5964
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What is stock roller kit weight for RM and MM?

I've seriously tried googling it and couldn't find an answer
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:33 PM   #5965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcopp View Post
What is stock roller kit weight for RM and MM?

I've seriously tried googling it and couldn't find an answer
not sure, but the mm kit is about 100 grams more as a roller
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:08 PM   #5966
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lol, I removed the strap, thumb screws and replaced all of the nuts with alum nuts.....1598. lol. I even have alum bones in the car. I have seen with my own eyes people with 1500g cars with my same battery and esc. The 1500 car I saw yesterday even had the full size xp servo.

So I am going to glue up some m4 ions for indoor racing. I plan to re-use aka red in the rear. But for the fronts. 3/4 rear or re-aka red fronts. We run tires until they are bald and they still work well. So I kinda dont want to cut and replace foams every 3-4 weeks. The track destroys open cells. The track is so tacky, it like walking on fly paper. so I assume the aka reds up front.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:43 PM   #5967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
lol, I removed the strap, thumb screws and replaced all of the nuts with alum nuts.....1598. lol. I even have alum bones in the car. I have seen with my own eyes people with 1500g cars with my same battery and esc. The 1500 car I saw yesterday even had the full size xp servo.

So I am going to glue up some m4 ions for indoor racing. I plan to re-use aka red in the rear. But for the fronts. 3/4 rear or re-aka red fronts. We run tires until they are bald and they still work well. So I kinda dont want to cut and replace foams every 3-4 weeks. The track destroys open cells. The track is so tacky, it like walking on fly paper. so I assume the aka reds up front.
Do Typos or Deja Vus work on your track? If they do, you can easily save another 30 grams by going to the AKA Evo wheels.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:47 PM   #5968
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I have typo ss rears with evo wheels. fronts are m4 ions on PL wheels.
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Old 07-14-2014, 10:20 PM   #5969
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I have been mostly racing SC (2wd and 4wd) but the 1/10 buggy class is very popular at my track, so I thought I would give it a shot. I received a new B5M kit on Wednesday and raced it on Sunday, and I have to say I had a blast. I ran it in the 17.5 stock class (biggest class at my track) and it was so much fun I can't wait to do it again.
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Old 07-14-2014, 10:23 PM   #5970
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And I would like to thank all the posters on this thread for all the build tips and setup feedback. The buggy was running pretty good Sunday and almost everyone at the track in the stock class was running a B5 or B5m so I got lots of setup tips specific to the track.
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