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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:50 PM   #5776
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well my track started misting. and now my steel screws are getting surface rust. I might get these for low stress areas. WD40 does not seem to be keeping the rust monster at bay
Well if thats the case just get the blue alum screws for $22 that AE sells.

Besides that strc doesnt enclude the stress screws soo alum is lighter and doesnt rust.

As for the 3mm serrated your can get bags of those for $2 or $6 anodized.
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:11 PM   #5777
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they claim these are high quality....
http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=1383
I used to buy titanium screws from Steve when he was running Speedtech RC. *If* these are the same as what I got from him back then, they should be pretty good quality.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:47 AM   #5778
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What factory team parts are the factory drivers using? How much does this buggy really cost?
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:54 AM   #5779
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Huh? Are you unable to live with yourself without having the same car as Cav? This car does not need anything extra for mod. If you want to run stock, get the RM car IMO.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:58 AM   #5780
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They are mostly adding FT parts to the rear of the car. Al hubs, hangers with inserts, camber block, and milled motor plate. Some hard plastic/option parts spread around for tuning purposes when preferable. The Al parts are nice for ease of tuning and possibly some added weight and durability, but as noted above you don't need any of it to go fast.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:59 AM   #5781
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Huh? Are you unable to live with yourself without having the same car as Cav? This car does not need anything extra for mod. If you want to run stock, get the RM car IMO.
Not what I meant at all. Just wondering if I need to pickup hop ups. Why do you recommend the RM for stock?
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:03 AM   #5782
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They are mostly adding FT parts to the rear of the car. Al hubs, hangers with inserts, camber block, and milled motor plate. Some hard plastic/option parts spread around for tuning purposes when preferable. The Al parts are nice for ease of tuning and possibly some added weight and durability, but as noted above you don't need any of it to go fast.
Thanks. I know with my RB6 I needed a few parts out of the box for durability. Nothing like that?

I still like the RB6. I'm just curious about the B5 and want to pick one up and play with it. Likely to run whichever I like best in mod and the other in stock.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:16 AM   #5783
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Box stock the MM car is just tooooo heavy. You can get the weight down with some serious spending, but if you notice AE runs the RM car in stock at bigger events. They just went 1/2 at the top gun race with the RM car. Those same AE drivers run the MM in mod. I am sure there are some tracks out there where the B5M is "fine" in stock, and some MM lover will come here and tell me how great MM is and how it works everywhere, blah blah. We run indoor medium to high bite and the pros rum RM in 17.5 and many of the lesser skilled drivers are converting to RM. It lighter and plenty nimble out of the box. Less issues with motor cooling and thus they are able to put more power down. I have both cars and have tried both cars. IMO the RM car is better suited to stock and outdoor racing. The MM is best suited to high bite mod racing. The RM car just has too much rear bite for mod on higher bite tracks. Too easy to float the front end. Also, many of the guys that have lowered the MM car to 1500, dont like it. And have issues with getting it to consistently hook up. But I am sure you will run what ever you want, everyone does. I have both cars and made my choices I dont believe in $500 in parts to lighten my car.

You dont need the alum rack. I have not seen a plastic one break yet.
The alum suspension holders are nice because you can change inserts easier than plastic. I have alum hexes on one car and stock hexes on the other. No difference in performance and my plastics ones have yet to come off with the wheel. Most people get the Ti turnbuckles. I had both. Stock had Ti, mod had steel. I never bent a steel one, but I replaced them anyway because they were rusting from the misters. Bearings? Some people hate the kit bearings. I am just now starting to get gritty from one on my mod car (stock bearings). But I have a bunch of packs on the car. I would consider their wear pretty normal. Hard parts? well they are super fragile. If you hit stuff, dont buy them. The plastics are stiffer than the b4 was by a long shot. And they are very durable. Alum pin brace? Not needed at all aside from bling. Alum rear hubs? I didnt feel like replacing them when I snap a stud off in them. I have had no issues with the stock hubs. The xrings are nice. Not really sure they are required though. I just put the traxxas ones in when I needed a rebuild. I have the AE xrings in my other car, do difference in feel or leaking. Puck? Only in stock IMO. anyway my 2 cents on hop ups. If you want to run stock with the B5M, just open your wallet, but that is the way of stock these days.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:20 AM   #5784
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Thanks. I know with my RB6 I needed a few parts out of the box for durability. Nothing like that?

I still like the RB6. I'm just curious about the B5 and want to pick one up and play with it. Likely to run whichever I like best in mod and the other in stock.
Well, for the MM car, I run the RM front and rear arms and the RM front tower. I also run my shorty all the way back. And i can do wheelies and have plenty of side bite. Durability.... I have broken nothing on my MM car. And it is not because I am a great driver, lol. The B5 series may be the more durable top tier car on the market unless you buy the hard parts. The only thing I dont like is the Slipper. Not in mod and not in stock. Its is just a crappy design period. I run the Avid Triad for both stock and mod. In fact, the lunsfords and triad are the only upgrades my MM car had for Mod. I had a RB6, it was good, never tried MM.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:25 AM   #5785
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I'm trying to run and compare the RB6 and B5, both RM and MM. I have them all, at least I did. I reluctantly sold my RM B5s. They were pretty good. My lap times my first time out with the B5 RM were on par with the lap times that I normally run with my MM RB6. Hopefully I'll have the opportunity to run a B5M this week. I only run stock and regardless of brand I bling all my cars out. I run pucks in everything mostly because it makes more long term sense to buy them.....if your good on maintainance you never need to replace the axles, CVs, outdrives, and bones. In stock I run a slipper eliminator on everything. I'm actually pretty surprised at the quality of the B5. Its not quite up to par with Kyosho but when you consider its a 2 for 1 proposition in terms of roller prices it is very attractive. So far my honest opinion is that the B5 is on par with the RB6 at half the price. I don't know how they wear because I change cars every month or two but thus far they are really good. I've been running the RB6s for a while and have never broken a single part....not one thing. Both of my RB6 cars have the Kyosho aluminum hangers, aluminum hubs, exotek bulkheads, aluminum rack, pucks, CF battery straps n stays....etc. The B5s get mostly the same stuff except no pucks and I do put the Ti turnbuckles on them. So far very little difference in performance with the AE cars being half price. Our track is sugared bluegroove much like the track that they run at the Cactus. The one thing that I will say about the B5 RM is that it didn't turn quite as well the MM RB6, mostly on power but it is very stable and is very predictable. I'll spend more time with the MM B5. It looks really good on the track with an almost box setup.

I guess I'll keep updating as I continue to test them all out. I'd say I'm a mid pack sportsman. I'm not a pro by any means but I can set up a car ok and have pro level support. Although I love the K cars the roller prices have even me a little fed up. By the time I get an RB6 roller all dialed I can almost build a raceable B5 with electronics.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:18 PM   #5786
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What does going from 1.6 x2 all the way around to 1.4 x3 all the way around do?
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:21 PM   #5787
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What does going from 1.6 x2 all the way around to 1.4 x3 all the way around do?
less pack more slow speed steering. I run the 1.4 in the front and 1.6 in the rear. I still want more pack though. Might go up in oils again.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:39 PM   #5788
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Box stock the MM car is just tooooo heavy. You can get the weight down with some serious spending, but if you notice AE runs the RM car in stock at bigger events. They just went 1/2 at the top gun race with the RM car. Those same AE drivers run the MM in mod. I am sure there are some tracks out there where the B5M is "fine" in stock, and some MM lover will come here and tell me how great MM is and how it works everywhere, blah blah. We run indoor medium to high bite and the pros rum RM in 17.5 and many of the lesser skilled drivers are converting to RM. It lighter and plenty nimble out of the box. Less issues with motor cooling and thus they are able to put more power down. I have both cars and have tried both cars. IMO the RM car is better suited to stock and outdoor racing. The MM is best suited to high bite mod racing. The RM car just has too much rear bite for mod on higher bite tracks. Too easy to float the front end. Also, many of the guys that have lowered the MM car to 1500, dont like it. And have issues with getting it to consistently hook up. But I am sure you will run what ever you want, everyone does. I have both cars and made my choices I dont believe in $500 in parts to lighten my car.

You dont need the alum rack. I have not seen a plastic one break yet.
The alum suspension holders are nice because you can change inserts easier than plastic. I have alum hexes on one car and stock hexes on the other. No difference in performance and my plastics ones have yet to come off with the wheel. Most people get the Ti turnbuckles. I had both. Stock had Ti, mod had steel. I never bent a steel one, but I replaced them anyway because they were rusting from the misters. Bearings? Some people hate the kit bearings. I am just now starting to get gritty from one on my mod car (stock bearings). But I have a bunch of packs on the car. I would consider their wear pretty normal. Hard parts? well they are super fragile. If you hit stuff, dont buy them. The plastics are stiffer than the b4 was by a long shot. And they are very durable. Alum pin brace? Not needed at all aside from bling. Alum rear hubs? I didnt feel like replacing them when I snap a stud off in them. I have had no issues with the stock hubs. The xrings are nice. Not really sure they are required though. I just put the traxxas ones in when I needed a rebuild. I have the AE xrings in my other car, do difference in feel or leaking. Puck? Only in stock IMO. anyway my 2 cents on hop ups. If you want to run stock with the B5M, just open your wallet, but that is the way of stock these days.
TQ was MM and broke in one of the double a's. MM is better.. period.

And there are no "pros" in 17.5.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:44 PM   #5789
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TQ was MM and broke in one of the double a's. MM is better.. period.
I didnt say MM sucked. I said it was too heavy at stock weight. If i tried to run a B5M at stock weight locally, I would not clear jumps and i would burn up motors. My point was they went 1/2 in that race. So the RM car is competitive. If i could only own 1 car, it would the the RM car. When all is said and done, I like it better. The one thing that I really really dislike about MM is the difficulty in jumping them. The RM car jumps so much better and is way less sensitive in the air.

If you have a chassis sponsor, your a "Pro" imo. Maybe not a full factory driver. Also, Hartson ran stock at the JC stock nats race.....Is he not a pro? Lol. Yeah and it was the MM car, I know.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:55 PM   #5790
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Mayo was running MM. Tommy was running BK's RM in 17.5, with Ashe also running RM. It was basically a wash in terms of which config was preferred.
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