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Old 07-02-2014, 08:15 PM   #5701
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noob question. How do you guys measure camber? I have a slight amount of toe-out which a local driver recommended. Do you measure with the wheels set to make the car go straight despite them being slightly outwards, or do you center up each wheel individually and then measure? Thanks.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:25 PM   #5702
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Turn you car on and let the servo center. Drop your car from about 10 in up and let suspension settle. Then measure with a camber guage
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:48 PM   #5703
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So if your going run the D4 I had to rotate the endbell so to mount the motor screws. Just FYI
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:57 AM   #5704
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So if your going run the D4 I had to rotate the endbell so to mount the motor screws. Just FYI

had to do that on the d3.5. nothing new.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:58 AM   #5705
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Turn you car on and let the servo center. Drop your car from about 10 in up and let suspension settle. Then measure with a camber guage
and to take into account the slop/slightly deformed wheels and tires, rotate them a quarter turn and check again. rinse, repeat.
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:26 PM   #5706
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and to take into account the slop/slightly deformed wheels and tires, rotate them a quarter turn and check again. rinse, repeat.
You can also bolt on a set of rims with no tire glued on to make it easier to read
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:52 PM   #5707
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noob question. How do you guys measure camber? I have a slight amount of toe-out which a local driver recommended. Do you measure with the wheels set to make the car go straight despite them being slightly outwards, or do you center up each wheel individually and then measure? Thanks.
you should always set your camber with the wheel straight in the front. If you are running toe out you should center the wheel and set it. This is common practice in 1/8th as sometimes you run a large amount of toe out. Youll get 15 different answers on this, but this is the correct way.
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Old 07-03-2014, 04:02 PM   #5708
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iam back online need wire and I be running esc hook up and mortor
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:46 PM   #5709
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you should always set your camber with the wheel straight in the front. If you are running toe out you should center the wheel and set it. This is common practice in 1/8th as sometimes you run a large amount of toe out. Youll get 15 different answers on this, but this is the correct way.
Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:53 PM   #5710
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Took mine out for its fifth run today. Its an indoor clay track with this one jump that is giving me hell. I am running a Tekin RS Gen 2 - Killshot 17.5 - 32/75 gearing and Gold Barcodes. I feel I just don't have much punch to get over this jump.

It is a small jump that lands on a tabletop which immediately has another jump at the end of the table. When I hit it perfectly I can clear the landing by maybe 3 inches. I will try to attach a picture of the current layout but it doesn't show the jump well.

I am running blink at the track as thats what I will eventually race with, but what would you guys recommend I try out to get a bit more punch? What gearing should I run? Timing on the motor appears to be at 20 degrees, which is how it was when I got it (don't know if this is normal or not).

Any ideas for the best setup? I also run at an indoor hard surface track, but run 21/79 (I Think) with tons of boost and that works really well for me.

Thanks for the reading the hodge podge of info, appreciate any input.

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Old 07-03-2014, 07:07 PM   #5711
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Originally Posted by hcopp View Post
Took mine out for its fifth run today. Its an indoor clay track with this one jump that is giving me hell. I am running a Tekin RS Gen 2 - Killshot 17.5 - 32/75 gearing and Gold Barcodes. I feel I just don't have much punch to get over this jump.

It is a small jump that lands on a tabletop which immediately has another jump at the end of the table. When I hit it perfectly I can clear the landing by maybe 3 inches. I will try to attach a picture of the current layout but it doesn't show the jump well.

I am running blink at the track as thats what I will eventually race with, but what would you guys recommend I try out to get a bit more punch? What gearing should I run? Timing on the motor appears to be at 20 degrees, which is how it was when I got it (don't know if this is normal or not).

Any ideas for the best setup? I also run at an indoor hard surface track, but run 21/79 (I Think) with tons of boost and that works really well for me.

Thanks for the reading the hodge podge of info, appreciate any input.

my friend runs that motor and esc combo. Try going to 31/72 with 30deg timing that seems to be a really good gearing set up and your track isnt much different than ours. Also you running the high torque killshot and not the rmp one right?
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:59 PM   #5712
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:21 PM   #5713
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Just got done installing and sanding gears.. Will report back how they are.
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:59 AM   #5714
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my friend runs that motor and esc combo. Try going to 31/72 with 30deg timing that seems to be a really good gearing set up and your track isnt much different than ours. Also you running the high torque killshot and not the rmp one right?


Thanks, turns out it is a 72t spur, I misread the manual when I was double-checking what the stock spur was. Wouldn't increasing the timing reduce the low end, therefore giving me less punch to get over that jump? Maybe I just need to perfect the entry into those jumps and thats how it will be. Dropping a tooth on the pinion should help though I assume.

Side question, do new top shafts and pucks help with these situations? i.e. do those modifications give you more punch since there is less rotational mass?
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:04 AM   #5715
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Thanks, turns out it is a 72t spur, I misread the manual when I was double-checking what the stock spur was. Wouldn't increasing the timing reduce the low end, therefore giving me less punch to get over that jump? Maybe I just need to perfect the entry into those jumps and thats how it will be. Dropping a tooth on the pinion should help though I assume.

Side question, do new top shafts and pucks help with these situations? i.e. do those modifications give you more punch since there is less rotational mass?
dropping 2 teeth on the pinion will make a noticeable difference in your bottom end so you should be able to up your timing but that is an easy change to play with. The aluminum top shaft imo is a must buy, the mip one is the lightest and for 15 dollars you lower your rotating mass and get a smoother gear mesh. I haven't put the pucks in yet but did put in the top shaft and ceramic diff gears which did give me a little snappier response and a cooler running motor.

Oh like i asked also are you running the high torqe or high rpm killshot?
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