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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:37 PM   #5656
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Just finished racing at the new SRS for the first time in mod class. I learned a few things

1) I suck
2) Wheelies are fun
3) I suck
4) Traction rolls are evil
5) Mod is a blast


lol, My car was pretty good. I hard to go up in spring rates in the front. I was running greys and that made most of the traction rolls go away. I had to lower the epa to 90% and I lowered the timing on my 8.5 to 3 deg, lol and I was still pulling wheelies. On the downside my 17.5 RM car with cut gears, ceramics, pucks, alum top shaft, alum pinion and triad slipper could not clear one of the double for crap. Honestly, 17.5 pissed me off so much I may be done with it. At least on this layout. With this amount of traction, mod was a blast.
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:45 PM   #5657
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:50 PM   #5658
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looks clean vito! im a fan of your invisible esc
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:53 PM   #5659
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So clean without all those pesky wires lol
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:00 PM   #5660
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looks clean vito! im a fan of your invisible esc
the esc is a tekin rs gen 2 its in my rear motor right now need more wire
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:59 PM   #5661
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I have what is probably dumb question. When people say they use the open cell foam from a rear tire cut to 3/4 do they mean of the width or cut it to make it shorter? I run at a high bite clay track and a high to medium bite clay and dirt track. Also on a side note. I have a front set of ions with red AKA foam in them the foam is shot but the tire is perfect what is the best way to remove the tire from the wheel without damaging it? Thanks
Okay first of all if it is a clay compound tire do not use acetone to remove the tire if you want to save it! It will shrink and harden it. Baking it would be okay, but the closed cell foam will shrink and be unusable. Also boiling is another viable option.

Once you get the tire and foam out, if there is leftover glue residue hardened onto the rim you can put them in acetone for 24 hours to remove it. Simply look up either method I recommended and find out which one is better for you.

Using an open cell foam on the front of a 2wd buggy will typically make the steering a little bit less twitchy. Also it will soften the steering if your track is rough. So if you are finding your steering a little too aggressive and your car is oversteering, give it a try!

This has just been my experience so take it for what you will.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:05 AM   #5662
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Okay first of all if it is a clay compound tire do not use acetone to remove the tire if you want to save it! It will shrink and harden it. Baking it would be okay, but the closed cell foam will shrink and be unusable. Also boiling is another viable option.

Once you get the tire and foam out, if there is leftover glue residue hardened onto the rim you can put them in acetone for 24 hours to remove it. Simply look up either method I recommended and find out which one is better for you.

Using an open cell foam on the front of a 2wd buggy will typically make the steering a little bit less twitchy. Also it will soften the steering if your track is rough. So if you are finding your steering a little too aggressive and your car is oversteering, give it a try!

This has just been my experience so take it for what you will.
I find that open cells give more steering than AKA an blue proline closed cells, unless you don't cut the rears and stuff them up front. And when they begin to break down they can cause twitchy behavior, particularly on an older clay layout where traction is high and the tires are worn in.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:46 AM   #5663
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I find that open cells give more steering than AKA an blue proline closed cells, unless you don't cut the rears and stuff them up front. And when they begin to break down they can cause twitchy behavior, particularly on an older clay layout where traction is high and the tires are worn in.
I'm mostly referring to AKA CC foams. I've not tried Proline, or Jconcepts foams. I think this thing can vary greatly between different tracks and different track conditions. Either way I think the open cells definitely provide more side bite due to the carcass of the tire being able to move more to conform to the track. You are right however, the open cell can quickly become unpredictable when the foam starts to break down. AKA CC foams will literally get better the second set of tires they have been in. All in all, if I were him I would just see what the local fast guys are doing for that track when it is in different stages.
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:52 PM   #5664
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can anyone tell me the weight savings on the MIP bi metal system over stock components? Trying to see if i can reach min weight without milling the chassis. Thanks
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Old 06-30-2014, 03:19 PM   #5665
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can anyone tell me the weight savings on the MIP bi metal system over stock components? Trying to see if i can reach min weight without milling the chassis. Thanks
About 18-20g.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:02 AM   #5666
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Need a 23T servo horn(with offset) that will take an associated b5m ball stud. The standard J associated horn(no offset) does not clear the servo. I have the shorter ft gold ball studs but it still hits the servo when turning. Need a horn with an offset that will take an associated ball stud. TLR horns will not take the associated ball studs. Could not find a plastic horn with an offset in my search. I assume a plastic horn will allow me to create my own threads when I screw in the b5m ball stud. Thanks
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:22 AM   #5667
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Need a 23T servo horn(with offset) that will take an associated b5m ball stud. The standard J associated horn(no offset) does not clear the servo. I have the shorter ft gold ball studs but it still hits the servo when turning. Need a horn with an offset that will take an associated ball stud. TLR horns will not take the associated ball studs. Could not find a plastic horn with an offset in my search. I assume a plastic horn will allow me to create my own threads when I screw in the b5m ball stud. Thanks
Tlr1554 is the plastic version of the offset 22 losi servo horn.
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:53 AM   #5668
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Need a 23T servo horn(with offset) that will take an associated b5m ball stud. The standard J associated horn(no offset) does not clear the servo. I have the shorter ft gold ball studs but it still hits the servo when turning. Need a horn with an offset that will take an associated ball stud. TLR horns will not take the associated ball studs. Could not find a plastic horn with an offset in my search. I assume a plastic horn will allow me to create my own threads when I screw in the b5m ball stud. Thanks
Can you snap a picture? Something doesn't sound right there. I'm using the stock set-up and it clears perfectly.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:05 AM   #5669
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Need a 23T servo horn(with offset) that will take an associated b5m ball stud. The standard J associated horn(no offset) does not clear the servo. I have the shorter ft gold ball studs but it still hits the servo when turning. Need a horn with an offset that will take an associated ball stud. TLR horns will not take the associated ball studs. Could not find a plastic horn with an offset in my search. I assume a plastic horn will allow me to create my own threads when I screw in the b5m ball stud. Thanks
I ran into this problem at first also the fix was to remove the spacers from the servo mount. After I removed the little black spacers between the servo and the mounts no more hitting. Try that and see if it works.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:34 AM   #5670
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I am trying to get my car down to a race weight of 1500 grams. I am at 1640 with a shorty battery, titanium screws and turnbuckles.

Can you guys that are at 1500 grams or lower please post your parts list?
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