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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:28 PM   #5491
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Running 17.5 killshot. Local track about 24 sec lap times most running 69 35 But I feel like I have no power and remos are 180 after 6 mins. Went up and.down.a tooth no.help. if I try a 72 where should I start at for pinion
are the others running losi? that seems pretty high for stock, even with a HT rotor. I think you will have better luck going down a few teeth
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Old 06-21-2014, 10:59 PM   #5492
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I was running 33/69 now I just got a hacker motor and esc and am running 31/72 with almost max timing. Tons of bottom end and plenty of top end temps are 140 after 6 min
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Old 06-21-2014, 11:28 PM   #5493
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Set up change

now using the rear outside hole on the alloy hub. ( 3 mm under ball stud)
Use inside chassis camber stud for lower traction, outside for higher traction.

Also using 3/0 rear toe for tomorrow.

whole point for the zero anti squat is smoother entry steering.

performed great in practice.
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:03 AM   #5494
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I've been racing for a very long time and I cannot think of a time when stock was a great entry class. It's always been expensive and difficult for a recently bumped out of novice driver to enter. All I remember about stock class in the bad old days is peeling shrink wrap, burning myself on the batteries and motor after a run, changing the brushes we filed down for more timing way too often, truing commutators, etc. It's always been a cash class, less so now than in the brushed and ni-cad days. Good matched and pushed ni-cad packs were around a hundred dollars each and you had to keep 4 of them in your toolbox because they could only be run once a day!
Agreed. Sad but true. I remember guys buying cases of stock motors just to find the fastest ones. Zapping the crap out of batteries, ect.

And sadly today we have less new people racing then ever. Club racing is down bigtime now that there's tons of big races and series running. Problem is they do not bring in any new racers. Pretty bad when there's a 150-200 entry race, and only 3 people in novice... But yet no one seems to be too worried about that. Enjoy racing while it lasts.

Ok back on subject now.
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:37 AM   #5495
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Running 17.5 killshot. Local track about 24 sec lap times most running 69 35 But I feel like I have no power and remos are 180 after 6 mins. Went up and.down.a tooth no.help. if I try a 72 where should I start at for pinion
I run a Killshot torque stator(not the high rpm model) and the torque rotor in my B5. 35-69 is the gearing I run and temp at 148 after 7 minutes with timing at 58degrees. To get the most of these motors you must crank the timing. The motor is also very smooth so it might feel slow but it is not. Try running more timing and some punch feel will come back.
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:37 AM   #5496
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I have a question about the inline setup. I was toying with the idea of trying this out to see if I like it but I was concerned with putting the esc right up against the motor. It just seems to me that it would be a bad idea heat wise. Also what stops the battery from sliding forward? Do you tape it down? Thanks for the help this looks interesting I just had those concerns
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Old 06-22-2014, 09:58 AM   #5497
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Here's my inline setup. Ran it yesterday and qualified 4th of 30 when the track was super green. Then when bite came up I made some bad tire choices and had a couple bad laps but I had the speed. It seems to have good forward bite but you have to be soft initially as the weight is central on the car and not naturally already on the rear. But once you're moving, it's dialed. If the track had a little more grip I'd be able to roll through the tighter corners with more speed and this wouldn't be an issue.

The only thing I changed is I put a big fan next to the esc to keep it cool. It was getting super hot since there's not really any airflow the way it's placed. My motor also draws a lot of amps so it's hard on speedos to begin with. I want to cut down the side pods like WC did and then I can angle the fan more and have it go over the motor as well.

Does anyone know if a B4 battery strap fits the hold down holes? If it does we can cut those and have more hold down protection on the battery.
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:30 AM   #5498
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:49 AM   #5499
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Looks good Vito exactly what I was talking about
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:41 PM   #5500
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Here's my inline setup. Ran it yesterday and qualified 4th of 30 when the track was super green. Then when bite came up I made some bad tire choices and had a couple bad laps but I had the speed. It seems to have good forward bite but you have to be soft initially as the weight is central on the car and not naturally already on the rear. But once you're moving, it's dialed. If the track had a little more grip I'd be able to roll through the tighter corners with more speed and this wouldn't be an issue.

The only thing I changed is I put a big fan next to the esc to keep it cool. It was getting super hot since there's not really any airflow the way it's placed. My motor also draws a lot of amps so it's hard on speedos to begin with. I want to cut down the side pods like WC did and then I can angle the fan more and have it go over the motor as well.

Does anyone know if a B4 battery strap fits the hold down holes? If it does we can cut those and have more hold down protection on the battery.
For the battery strap you can use the B44.2 ones, just drill the holes in the B5M hold down to 7mm, and just dremel up a small slot in the front.

There is a pic of the mod in this thread a few weeks back
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Old 06-22-2014, 02:10 PM   #5501
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Seth

You need to separate the thumb screw mounts from the chassis tray.

This allows you rake the thumb screw mounts more forward for improved coverage of the battery with the strap. You will be able to move the strap about a 1/4 inch more forward, not much but still better. Personally not once had any issue with the battery coming loose.

Suggest also trim or grind the battery tray off for more flex & improved handling.
maybe also consider moving the PT forward on top of servo.

Looks great fan & all.

Drive it for a while..
Then ?
Drive someone else's with a set up like you use to have.

You will really understand the difference then .
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Last edited by Wild Cherry; 06-22-2014 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:13 PM   #5502
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Finished up the paint and did a little wiring work, still want to clean it up a bit though.

Also, is straight ESC to battery connection is okay? I don't need a connector between the two for any reason?
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:32 PM   #5503
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Tried something funky last night ran gull front arms flipped upside down I noticed car was super easy to drive and I was much more consistent than usual, going to stick with it for a few weeks.

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Old 06-22-2014, 04:51 PM   #5504
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Jason

Slicks ???
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Old 06-22-2014, 05:11 PM   #5505
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Yeah just to put something on it to see how much it affected droop & full compression. Actually ran it last night with treads
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