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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:12 AM   #5446
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
Going tit for tat isn't what this thread is for nor will I entertain. Again, I stick by my stance that all the weight reduction craze is overdone and could steer new racers down an expensive, time-consuming path that will quickly push them out of he hobby due to time and cost. I see it all the time.

It's great work and not meant to "criticize" as you like to contend. Playing devil's advocate for the average racer or new to the hobby is sometimes a good thing.

It's my view and will be the last I reply on it.

Funny you mention RC10 and it's in your nick. We have a group of guys with the released RC10 world car having a blast with them.
To myself that part is only for eye candy, takes weight from the very spot its needed most for traction & performance.

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Old 06-20-2014, 11:16 AM   #5447
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The B5M is a pig of a car and does need weight reduction for blinky class. Everyone can make their own decision as to whether or not they need that chassis milling. I think it would be nice if they made 3 different chassis flex options for tuning. Shouldn't be super difficult to do...
I agree and I am not willing to put in the cash for 17.5MM. I have a RM car and it works great in stock. IMO, the MM car out of the box is better suited to outdoor tracks with smaller jumps or mod. The extra weight is nice for traction outdoors.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:19 AM   #5448
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She's all done and ready to race.

I literally haven't built or driven a 2wd buggy since the AE TQ10.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:27 AM   #5449
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
Going tit for tat isn't what this thread is for nor will I entertain. Again, I stick by my stance that all the weight reduction craze is overdone and could steer new racers down an expensive, time-consuming path that will quickly push them out of he hobby due to time and cost. I see it all the time.

It's great work and not meant to "criticize" as you like to contend. Playing devil's advocate for the average racer or new to the hobby is sometimes a good thing.

It's my view and will be the last I reply on it.

Funny you mention RC10 and it's in your nick. We have a group of guys with the released RC10 world car having a blast with them.
But you weren't playing devil's advocate, nor did you even bother to acknowledge the work that went into their design. You just went straight to "it's pointless" and a haughty "to each their own I guess."

If you want to play devil's advocate, nobody "needs" to spend any money on rc cars. It's all just a huge waste of time and money in the grand scheme of things. It doesn't mean people can't have fun and dedicate their talents to things they enjoy doing, like creating new parts for their cars.

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Hey Nick!
If you can't stand the heat ?

Stay out of the kitchen...
You stay classy, George!
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:28 AM   #5450
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I only use my B5M in mod, which makes the weight great for me. I ran an rm in stock, but traded it out for a D413 4wd 2nd class.

I did very little outside of a slipper, pucks and Ti. I just see all the pics with cars sitting on scales for blinky and think how crazy the costs and time consumed must appear to newer racers. Stock used to be a great entry class. Now it's the great cash class. Mod is way more popular around here luckily.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:29 AM   #5451
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To the guys polishing ball studs.
Use a dremel tool, it has an aluminum collet and won't damage the treads.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:31 AM   #5452
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yeah, I am trying to make the transition to mod. But so far racing both is hard. I practiced 3-4 packs in mod, then put my stock car on the track and it was difficult to deal with the difference. There are a few locals, that switched to mod buggy and picked up a wheeler like you for a second class. A local might let me drive his space xb4 this next week. Who knows, if I like the car, maybe I will get one, lol.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:32 AM   #5453
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To the guys polishing ball studs.
Use a dremel tool, it has an aluminum collet and won't damage the treads.
I will try that. Thanks. That would be easier than my full sized dewalt drill to use, lol.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:33 AM   #5454
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I agree and I am not willing to put in the cash for 17.5MM. I have a RM car and it works great in stock. IMO, the MM car out of the box is better suited to outdoor tracks with smaller jumps or mod. The extra weight is nice for traction outdoors.
100% agree. I run indoors mainly, but did some inline setup and spring/damping testing to get it to jump real good. Still and always a work in progress.
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:44 AM   #5455
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Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
I only use my B5M in mod, which makes the weight great for me. I ran an rm in stock, but traded it out for a D413 4wd 2nd class.

I did very little outside of a slipper, pucks and Ti. I just see all the pics with cars sitting on scales for blinky and think how crazy the costs and time consumed must appear to newer racers. Stock used to be a great entry class. Now it's the great cash class. Mod is way more popular around here luckily.
I've been racing for a very long time and I cannot think of a time when stock was a great entry class. It's always been expensive and difficult for a recently bumped out of novice driver to enter. All I remember about stock class in the bad old days is peeling shrink wrap, burning myself on the batteries and motor after a run, changing the brushes we filed down for more timing way too often, truing commutators, etc. It's always been a cash class, less so now than in the brushed and ni-cad days. Good matched and pushed ni-cad packs were around a hundred dollars each and you had to keep 4 of them in your toolbox because they could only be run once a day!
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:45 AM   #5456
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I wish i could run mod but until my skill gets better or we get more mod racers Im gonna have to stick to stock, Im a solid C main stock racer although I did get bumped to the B main. We had an A,B,C,D and maybe and E main that night. Oh well it was only my second race so the good news is I have plenty of room for improvement lol. We have a new track opening tonigh so I'm intereseted to see how many people they have running mod there
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Old 06-20-2014, 11:51 AM   #5457
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I've been racing for a very long time and I cannot think of a time when stock was a great entry class. It's always been expensive and difficult for a recently bumped out of novice driver to enter. All I remember about stock class in the bad old days is peeling shrink wrap, burning myself on the batteries and motor after a run, changing the brushes we filed down for more timing way too often, truing commutators, etc. It's always been a cash class, less so now than in the brushed and ni-cad days. Good matched and pushed ni-cad packs were around a hundred dollars each and you had to keep 4 of them in your toolbox because they could only be run once a day!
I won the state championship in 2wd stock buggy in the early 90s and qualified top 5 two other years. I know about the stock class as it pertained to yesteryear. Back then stock was the biggest class around here and I could barely afford tires let alone anything else, so I raced with what I had, but now as you say it's much different. It didn't cost what it does now back then. Not even close. I still have the Jrx2, a Tekin charger and an old chipped Airtronics controller from those days, as well as 3 of the batteries I need to throw out still. Matched cells yadda yadda...nothing compared to the expense of today.

It was entry class back then around here, but now it's like you said and like I stated it's not that these days.

In the end it's mostly about the driver behind the buggy, not the reading on the scale the cars are sitting on.
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:03 PM   #5458
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:19 PM   #5459
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need help how to get a proling wing to fit on the mounts to tick with the shim on
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:15 PM   #5460
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need help how to get a proling wing to fit on the mounts to tick with the shim on
tried the best i could with my phone, but i used a dremel cutoff wheel and put some groves in my wing to let the clips slide in

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