Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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#5431
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
To make life easier, simply buy a bag of machine screws with a phillips head just shorter than the depth of the cups and using a drill, drive them in and out to pre-thread for the turnbuckles. Additionally if your man hands still can't handle things, a dab of chapstick might make it easier to thread the turnbuckles in.
#5432
Tech Adept
Actually, I've used vaseline (which I'm certain is petroleum based) for the last couple of years because that's all thats around with the kids. Butter smooth ball cup adjustment and haven't noticed any swelling of plastic lol. Works just like chapstick. Different means to the same end, gets the job done.
#5433
Tech Rookie
Not Really Sure Where To Go Next????
Been running this car for about a month now. First week out box stock, kit setup with a 13.5. Loved the car, tons of steering, great corner speed, landed like a cat. Tended to snap out the rear on corner exit, like it wanted to over rotate right at the end, but very drivable. Best lap time I have had in years.
Next time out, exact same setup and tires, but with my new 17.5 (Because our track is changing stock from 13.5 to 17.5) and the car was a monster. So twitchy it was useless. Over rotated in every corner. Would spin out in the straight when trying to correct my line for corner entry. Even the guys at our track who can drive anything said YUCK.
Been out a couple times since and have made a ton of setup changes. Have the car a LOT better but not right. ie.. the car is pretty good in now, and the twitch is gone but it pushes out so bad you almost have to stop to finish a corner. NO corner speed at all.
Anyway, I am going back to box stock and start over, but if anyone has any setup ideas for a 17.5 stock setup for a slick to med grip track it could be great. Thanks guys.
Next time out, exact same setup and tires, but with my new 17.5 (Because our track is changing stock from 13.5 to 17.5) and the car was a monster. So twitchy it was useless. Over rotated in every corner. Would spin out in the straight when trying to correct my line for corner entry. Even the guys at our track who can drive anything said YUCK.
Been out a couple times since and have made a ton of setup changes. Have the car a LOT better but not right. ie.. the car is pretty good in now, and the twitch is gone but it pushes out so bad you almost have to stop to finish a corner. NO corner speed at all.
Anyway, I am going back to box stock and start over, but if anyone has any setup ideas for a 17.5 stock setup for a slick to med grip track it could be great. Thanks guys.
#5434
Wow !
Surprised many here have not gone though all the difficulties trying to adjust camber just after few days using the black grease.
Surprised many here have not gone though all the difficulties trying to adjust camber just after few days using the black grease.
#5435
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Personally feel the new ball cups are the best ever, strong , tight & smooth...
A little need wax makes threading all the easier.
Build Tip
Don't use petroleum based products to lube the threads.
If you use grease the ball cup will thread on easier, but after a day or so the grease swells the plastic and the ball cup grips even tighter making adustments
almost impossible.
use wax or soap instead
A little need wax makes threading all the easier.
Build Tip
Don't use petroleum based products to lube the threads.
If you use grease the ball cup will thread on easier, but after a day or so the grease swells the plastic and the ball cup grips even tighter making adustments
almost impossible.
use wax or soap instead
#5436
Been running this car for about a month now. First week out box stock, kit setup with a 13.5. Loved the car, tons of steering, great corner speed, landed like a cat. Tended to snap out the rear on corner exit, like it wanted to over rotate right at the end, but very drivable. Best lap time I have had in years.
Next time out, exact same setup and tires, but with my new 17.5 (Because our track is changing stock from 13.5 to 17.5) and the car was a monster. So twitchy it was useless. Over rotated in every corner. Would spin out in the straight when trying to correct my line for corner entry. Even the guys at our track who can drive anything said YUCK.
Been out a couple times since and have made a ton of setup changes. Have the car a LOT better but not right. ie.. the car is pretty good in now, and the twitch is gone but it pushes out so bad you almost have to stop to finish a corner. NO corner speed at all.
Anyway, I am going back to box stock and start over, but if anyone has any setup ideas for a 17.5 stock setup for a slick to med grip track it could be great. Thanks guys.
Next time out, exact same setup and tires, but with my new 17.5 (Because our track is changing stock from 13.5 to 17.5) and the car was a monster. So twitchy it was useless. Over rotated in every corner. Would spin out in the straight when trying to correct my line for corner entry. Even the guys at our track who can drive anything said YUCK.
Been out a couple times since and have made a ton of setup changes. Have the car a LOT better but not right. ie.. the car is pretty good in now, and the twitch is gone but it pushes out so bad you almost have to stop to finish a corner. NO corner speed at all.
Anyway, I am going back to box stock and start over, but if anyone has any setup ideas for a 17.5 stock setup for a slick to med grip track it could be great. Thanks guys.
#5437
one more thing related to weight change.. drag brake? perhaps this motor has more braking power?
#5438
Tech Master
Might as well buy something like this and pre-thread the ball cups. I still stand by my crescent wrench + cordless drill + low speed + chapstick method.
So what turnbuckles fit again? /s
#5441
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
One thing you need to be aware of if you plan on doing the screw to the ballcup to pre thread them is that you risk weakening it. Only one side of the turnbuckle is threaded "normal", the other is left hand thread. You would basically be threading a right hand screw in and then shoving a left hand in there. When building my B5m over the weekend I drilled the ballcups out with a 7/64 bit and then added a little bit of chapstick to the threads and have zero issues with adjusting them. Only added about 2minutes to the build.