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Old 06-19-2014, 10:11 PM   #5416
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Gti you got it all ready ..(best ball cup).


Not sure what arm's your useN, think plastic rear may be good for U. I'm using hard.

try 2.5/1 & outside on the rear chassis camber..

My ride is very good for the grip tommorow..
My 44 too.

Oyeah , he runs the wheeler like every day ...

44 driving good tonight ,good time...
.
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Old 06-19-2014, 10:23 PM   #5417
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Any weight difference between lunsford balls and AE kit balls?
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:30 PM   #5418
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My coworker is a New Design Engineer and CNC programmer for our huge CNC's. We did a Solidworks FEA Stress analysis on the B5M chassis to see how we can remove weight without affecting rigidity. The "spiderweb" design is used to retain its "factory" stiffness indicated in dark blue in the first pic below. The lighter shades are somewhat weaker areas. Without the spiderwebs we started to see green to yellow areas which noticeably have more flex under load so in order to reduce weight and keep it within light blue to dark, we had to add the ribs. We weren't concerned about the lighter shades not dark blue because once the plastic parts were assembled and installed, the chassis was re-enforced to no flex at all. The last pic is the final product with plastic frames attached. Mill time is 39 minutes a chassis at .073" depth. Factory mill is .050". Chassis is .105" total so there's .032" left at bottom of mill holes. Effective weight loss of 30 grams on the money and still stiff as stock. The power of solidworks at its best when used to its potential. PM me for info on getting it done for your chassis.












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Old 06-20-2014, 02:46 AM   #5419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I ran my MM car around the oval last weekend for giggles. So much better than a RM car on the oval.

I checked the pins, they are fine. Some of the bind is in the arms. I have noticed that my hard arms are way more free than the plastic ones. But you can feel the binding in the cups. I showed another driver and his eye widened in amazement at how tight they are. My RM car the cups are pretty free, but i spent time amount of time getting them that way. I probably can make them better with some effort polishing, it just pisses me off that I need to work so hard on the balls. I just picked up some lunsfords and I will be replacing all of the caps. I will probably take the time to polish the balls also, meh.
Man that sucks, I didn't spend any time at all to get mine nice and smooth on either my RM or MM. The fronts on both did bind a bit until I figured out the hinge pin trick (turned the hinge pin while pushing them in until they "clicked" in and then they where nice and free. Followed instructions for building except the addition of a tiny bit of black grease on the ball before assembly.
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Old 06-20-2014, 04:33 AM   #5420
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Aluminum + CC machine = FTW.... I got a AE aluminum shock cap and tried to thread the bleeder screw and was going real slow.. No matter what way I put the bleeder screw in it was not right.. Ended up trying to screw it in the best I could and guess what happen? It stopped before it was all the way in and the head stripped.. I was out a set of $16 shock caps..
If you bought the aluminum shock caps, they are probably for the B4.2 big bores, and those were not metric. They used a 2-56 bleeder screw, not a 2mm. Just FYI.
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:45 AM   #5421
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RcOldskool - now that is some impressive engineering!

Any chance you and/or your co-worker will be doing any more chassis' for customers?
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:27 AM   #5422
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my main concern with that milling is. Where does the esc and receiver go? I just dont see it sticking to that minimal flat surface. And I refuse to use shoe goo to hold my electronics in.
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:31 AM   #5423
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Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Are you doing the HD cups the 22SCT and 22-4 use? They are absolutely fantastic and if you use one of those punches to make holes in them, they are also easy to install/remove just like the AE ones. I might switch later as well. For now, my Lunsford turnbuckles and OEM rod ends are free and smooth.
I am actually just going to use the AE cups and balls. I will just polish them and get them smooth enough that they dont greatly affect ride height adjustments. I worked the balls on my RM car and they are much better. My whole point was, they should come factory like the TLR ones. I should not have to go buy polish, make a chuck adapter and then spend an hour making then decent, but never as good as the tlr. I prefer to stay OEM on my cars. I have a bunch of new AE cups and balls. Plus my new shorter Lunsfords. So I will just built the camber links and do some finishing work on them.


I would love to see someone here use a new stud, a new cup, assemble with no prep work and show me your floppy camber links, like i showed in my video. Many of you tell me how free yours are. I would like to see. I doubt anyone has any as free as the TLR new out of the package.
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:45 AM   #5424
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I use the #91446 (and #91447 of course) front and rear on mine and everything fits fine.
Thanks greatly
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:11 AM   #5425
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Its not a problem at all. My receiver and esc are still in the buggy and we have big jumps. We double up servo tape in the milled areas.

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my main concern with that milling is. Where does the esc and receiver go? I just dont see it sticking to that minimal flat surface. And I refuse to use shoe goo to hold my electronics in.
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:19 AM   #5426
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You will need the studs also. The ball is a different diameter
Do you have part numbers?
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:54 AM   #5427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RcOldskool
[URL=http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rcoldskool/media/1.jpg.html
[/URL]









Very nice work, we have been trying to get more flex from the edge of the water fall to the back of servo ..

Whole idea is equalize the flex and make the front flex more equal to the rear
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:18 AM   #5428
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Cherry, this milling is keeping rigidity. It is purely weight savings.
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:22 AM   #5429
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Quote:
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Cherry, this milling is keeping rigidity. It is purely weight savings.
Mentioned & intended as a suggestion for higher performance.

Just my opinion, milling the chassis for weight reduction defeats the purpose of using a alloy chassis .
Could just use Graphite to get a weight reduction.
The whole reason for the alloy chassis is to use the weight for a lower center of gravity.
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:49 AM   #5430
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Default To chassis tape or not to chassis tape that is the question

So i have been using chassis tape for a while now. Mostly the JC uncut sheets. I dont really mind cutting the sheets. I started using chassis tape when I started to buy cars with an alum chassis. Initially to protect it and keep it looking nice and secondly to reduction friction when the chassis rubs the ground. Recently,. I sold a car and removed the tape prior to selling. Well that was not a fun experience. It left a ton of sticky residue, I used some elbow grease and goo gone to get it cleaned up. When I converted my B5M a week ago, I put on chassis tape again during the conversion. I have maybe 10 packs on the car and it is already starting to tear in a few places. So I am debating trying the AE uncut tape or just refraining from tape in the future. I have been apply chassis tape to the entire chassis, but another issue removing the rear diff or suspension holders. Normally, I use a hobby knife and just cut the circles around the screws so they can be removed. But once I do that it starts to pack dirt into the opening and it seems to increase the tearing on the tape. I could just simply replace my tape every 2 weeks, but honestly, that will cost more than just replacing my chassis ever 6 months. Plus, I would have to worry less about chassis tweak.


What are your guys thoughts on chassis tape? Anyone used the AE uncut stuff? I had it on my b44 and it was so slick I could barely hold onto the car, but it tore easier than the JC stuff. Maybe that was because of the weight of the b44 and the fact it slapped much more than a 2wd buggy.
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