R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-09-2017, 12:23 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Like Tree9Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-19-2014, 08:00 AM   #5356
Tech Champion
 
thecman26's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Central Kansas
Posts: 7,753
Trader Rating: 99 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I noticed some resistance with my alum shock caps also. But I didnt use the included button head screws. Button head screws are sh$t. There is not much material for the tool to bite into. I ordered protek 2x4mm cap head screws for my shock caps. They worked great.

So I ran my B5 and B5M back to back in qualifiers tonight. My lap times with within hundredths between the 2 cars. I did some tuning to my MM car and it lands jumps much better now. But even though the lap times were the same, I am favoring the RM car for now. Cooler motor temps in 17.5, plusher jumping and less twitchy in the air. I have found that I like the jumping of the RM car much better. The MM car is just so sensitive in the air. We currently have a sweeping turn with a couple areas where the car gets off the ground. And I really had to check up with the MM car in that section. On the up side, its super easy to "whip" the car, lol. I will continue to practice with and tune the MM car, but for now I will be racing my RM car in stock and practicing with the MM car.

Also, I finally broke a part that was not from hitting a wall, lol. The front tower cracked. I noticed the super flexy tower when cleaning the car between rounds. Number one reason to clean the car, you find broken crap you might not have otherwise noticed. Also, these ball cups, suck suck suck. Please dont tell me how your are perfect. I have built a few of the cars and they are all crap. Sure if I polish everything its better. Check the picture to see the awesomeness of my cups, lol.
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that's not due to "bad" ball cups. You have another issue like binding hinge pins or something. On both of my B5's the ball cups have been the best I have worked with so far! I noticed that the front hinge pins need to be pushed in until they "click" in. Then they are free. Work with them a bit unless yours are bent?

Personally I prefer the mid motor myself even though I only have one race on it so far. Converting it to oval right now, thats gonna be fun!
__________________
Chris Keen: Viola, Kansas
Kyosho RZ6, TLR 22 3.0, TLR 4.0 SR (soon),& 22T 3.0
"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!", Col. Sanders
thecman26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 08:07 AM   #5357
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,985
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that's not due to "bad" ball cups. You have another issue like binding hinge pins or something. On both of my B5's the ball cups have been the best I have worked with so far! I noticed that the front hinge pins need to be pushed in until they "click" in. Then they are free. Work with them a bit unless yours are bent?

Personally I prefer the mid motor myself even though I only have one race on it so far. Converting it to oval right now, thats gonna be fun!
I ran my MM car around the oval last weekend for giggles. So much better than a RM car on the oval.

I checked the pins, they are fine. Some of the bind is in the arms. I have noticed that my hard arms are way more free than the plastic ones. But you can feel the binding in the cups. I showed another driver and his eye widened in amazement at how tight they are. My RM car the cups are pretty free, but i spent time amount of time getting them that way. I probably can make them better with some effort polishing, it just pisses me off that I need to work so hard on the balls. I just picked up some lunsfords and I will be replacing all of the caps. I will probably take the time to polish the balls also, meh.
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 08:17 AM   #5358
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

[QUOTE=kindnuguz;13346184]

I will tell you in a few days when I get them on my B5M..
I bought everything except the front PIN holder and Shock mounts.. (Already had AE FT ones)

When I looked at the rear hub they are selling and saw that you can use the stock inserts and the front caster blocks as well, I had to grab them.

Low quality or not they beat anything AE FT is selling. The rear hub AE is selling does not allow you to use the stock insert.. not to mention $45?

Aluminum + CC machine = FTW.... I got a AE aluminum shock cap and tried to thread the bleeder screw and was going real slow.. No matter what way I put the bleeder screw in it was not right.. Ended up trying to screw it in the best I could and guess what happen? It stopped before it was all the way in and the head stripped.. I was out a set of $16 shock caps..

Kindnuguz

Actually the other cap is still ok right ?


You stripped other one , sounds like anyway.
Cross threaded ?
Maybe just used a worn out driver or even used the wrong screw ..


Don't blame Ae for your poor wrenching ability's.

Nothing wrong with the Ae cap, plastic or alloy...
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 06-19-2014 at 08:42 AM.
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 08:19 AM   #5359
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 393
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I bought the Lunsford 2 weeks ago and went ahead and spent the 6 bucks and got all new cups. Now thew are waaaaayyyyy better and I didn't polish at all
scythe23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 08:26 AM   #5360
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scythe23 View Post
I bought the Lunsford 2 weeks ago and went ahead and spent the 6 bucks and got all new cups. Now thew are waaaaayyyyy better and I didn't polish at all
Good news for those that insisted the ball cups are defected ....
LoL
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 08:30 AM   #5361
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,985
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scythe23 View Post
I bought the Lunsford 2 weeks ago and went ahead and spent the 6 bucks and got all new cups. Now thew are waaaaayyyyy better and I didn't polish at all
I normally ignore most of what Cherry says, but a few weeks ago, he said to put on a cup without the rod and see how free they are. So I figured why not. I put a new cup over the ball without ever having used a tie rod on the cup. It was sticky as all get out. I am not saying yours are not smooth, but my experience has been the opposite.

Did you ever get your MM car sorted out last night? Mine was pretty good. I actually got my A Main qualifying run with the MM car. But I ran my RM car in the main. It felt better, and I was not so sure about running my 17.5 for 7 minutes in the A. I am still at 1640+ grams and didnt want to risk blowing up the motor. As it was, my RM car came off at 155 on the motor.
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 08:39 AM   #5362
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 97
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason View Post
This makes it sound like you did not compress the diff spring before assembling.
No I 100% did... guy at the shop said it just simply wasn't tight enough... He said that the spring should be fully compressed to have a correctly set diff.... but as stated above - the sticky at the top of this forum suggests way otherwise.
hcopp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 08:51 AM   #5363
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 393
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I normally ignore most of what Cherry says, but a few weeks ago, he said to put on a cup without the rod and see how free they are. So I figured why not. I put a new cup over the ball without ever having used a tie rod on the cup. It was sticky as all get out. I am not saying yours are not smooth, but my experience has been the opposite.

Did you ever get your MM car sorted out last night? Mine was pretty good. I actually got my A Main qualifying run with the MM car. But I ran my RM car in the main. It felt better, and I was not so sure about running my 17.5 for 7 minutes in the A. I am still at 1640+ grams and didnt want to risk blowing up the motor. As it was, my RM car came off at 155 on the motor.
They are way better with the new turnbuckles, now thats not saying that their isn't any binding at all but it is better. I most likely will be polishing the ball studs this weekend if I get the time but when I had the ae turnbuckles on my cups were binding very bad. I was planning on buying the lunsfords anyhow so im glad that they helped as much as they did. I think now with the lunsfords and a little polishing they will be perfect. Hopefully AE will fix this soon so the future kits coming out address this. I don't mind modding my cars to get them how I like them but you shouldn't have to buy aftermarket parts and do all this just to get them to function. Oh well I have had worse problems after purchasing a new car. Good job last night wildcat I just looked at the results!
scythe23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 09:12 AM   #5364
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Fact:
Anyone that uses the Lunsford Ti rods or the shorter Ae Ti rods & not the kits Ti rods ?

"SMoooth ball cups" is the song I hear them singing..

Hope the defect guys can get the tune out of their heads.
Its really catchy...LoL
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 09:14 AM   #5365
Tech Elite
 
vito's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: roseburg or
Posts: 3,928
Default

Tom Ancona


dad needs more prayer because he was in a wreck and the Doctor found 2 more tumors in his brain but the dr said with radiation they should be able to get it all. From the wreck Tommy is good. Tumors are making his eyes bad and he is not walking good. So pray for him he said thank you for all the prayers before and now

no rc but I got this to deal with and b5 is on the back brunner
__________________
the happy racer
drango 410 v 4
am dyslexic
b5 mid motor
vito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 10:00 AM   #5366
Tech Addict
 
bilster44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sactown, Ca
Posts: 666
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I actually do ignore a lot of what wc says myself...but he was right on the 2" tie rods...they are too long. However, the Lunsford kit they sell are too short...so I did the leg work for those that care about strength and looks. The Lunsford 1 7/8" ones are perfect for the front and rear camber locations. And the 2'' made by anyone is perfect for your steering. They only bury just to the tapered portion of the rod...so they will NOT distort the ball stud end of the cups when you clip pipes and barrel roll.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-20140529_202220.jpg  
__________________
"Let Your Racing Speak"
bilster44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 10:08 AM   #5367
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,985
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bilster44 View Post
I actually do ignore a lot of what wc says myself...but he was right on the 2" tie rods...they are too long. However, the Lunsford kit they sell are too short...so I did the leg work for those that care about strength and looks. The Lunsford 1 7/8" ones are perfect for the front and rear camber locations. And the 2'' made by anyone is perfect for your steering. They only bury just to the tapered portion of the rod...so they will NOT distort the ball stud end of the cups when you clip pipes and barrel roll.
I run the 1 7/8 on my RM car. I picked up the 4x 1 3/4 and 2x 1 5/8 for my MM car. I personally, wanted them a little shorter. The lhs didnt have 6x of the 1 3/4. I think they will work fine. But if I decide to goto the TLR 22 cups, my links will be too short. You probably want 2 inch ones for that mod. So I will just spend an hour or so polishing next week.


Last time I chucked up my stud in a drill and use 800 grit to smooth them out as I ran the drill at low speeds. The problem is...even though I didnt crank on the chuck and tried my best to be gentle, the threads on the studs flattened a little. Not really an issue going into plastic mounts, but i picked up an alum rear camber mount for my MM car and kinda want to keep the treads on the studs pristine. I thought about using fuel tubing over the threads. Any other ideas?
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 10:19 AM   #5368
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 393
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

buy a cheap tap set and some round aluminum stock and drill and tap a hole to thread your ball studs into. Might sound complicated but in fact it is very cheap and easy to do. Also tap and die sets come in handy all the time. I can look to see if I have anymore round stock I could even do it for you and bring it to the track
scythe23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 10:20 AM   #5369
Tech Addict
 
bilster44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sactown, Ca
Posts: 666
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
So I will just spend an hour or so polishing next week.


Any other ideas?
No one needs to polish anything...some of the cups can be slightly distorted (out of round) right from the parts tree they are molded on. A slight squeeze on the sides (with pliers) of the ball stud hole on the cup will free them right up, whether there is a ball stud in the cup or not.
__________________
"Let Your Racing Speak"
bilster44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2014, 10:24 AM   #5370
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,985
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bilster44 View Post
No one needs to polish anything...some of the cups can be slightly distorted (out of round) right from the parts tree they are molded on. A slight squeeze on the sides (with pliers) of the ball stud hole on the cup will free them right up, whether there is a ball stud in the cup or not.
Yeah, I tried that. No effect. I also tried to "stretch" the cup by manual moving it up and down to the extremes with a little pressure. I tried everything people suggested , lol. So far polishing worked best.
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (1 members and 3 guests)
axoid
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:09 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net