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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:48 AM   #5296
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You don't need the Bfast rings to make a smooth diff - simply use the caged ceramic ball thrust rings with grooved washers. You just slowly tighten the diff while moving it around between each time you tighten it. Mine is silky smooth and has remained so for **hours** of run time with a 7.5 motor. You bark it once and it's gonna degrade quickly so make sure you run it tight enough that it never barks.
you don't need a caged thrust, kit version just as smooth.

Do need ceramic diff balls though.


Tip

Place 2 drivers on each outdrive and if you can make the gear slip by hand ?

Tighten it down some more until you can't budge the gear with your best try.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:49 AM   #5297
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is 2 3 mo for a paint job to long takes time like a weekend ?
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:49 AM   #5298
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Think your safe , nothing new for long time long now..

Will help you build if you wish..
I may take you up on that George! Thanks! It would be kind of fun and while I try to keep up with this thread, I haven't been able to read it all... That would save me a lot of research

Thanks for the replies!
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:51 AM   #5299
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Yeah, I still need to try those avid ceramic caged thrusts. Are you using carbide balls?
Yes, I've never tried the ceramic main diff balls before but the thrusts are really good. Gonna rebuild my 22-4 diffs with them and see if they last longer than the stock carbide (I'm sure they will...)
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:54 AM   #5300
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yeah, I do that. in between tighening, I trim the throttle ahead to it can run at low speeds for about a minute, then repeat. And it feels great until it starts to get "tight", then it starts to feel gritty. Maybe my version of tight and others is different. Maybe I am too tight.
Personally, I think this is where you are having problems. I never do that and have smooth, long lasting diffs. Maybe 10 seconds per side max. I think they break in naturally on the track as long as it never, ever, ever barks. And I run my diff pretty tight.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:02 AM   #5301
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Yes, I've never tried the ceramic main diff balls before but the thrusts are really good. Gonna rebuild my 22-4 diffs with them and see if they last longer than the stock carbide (I'm sure they will...)
carbide or kit thurst is just as smooth and its durabity is almost the same as ceramic version.

You still have not switched to ceramic diff balls though ?????


Dude ? C - on ....lol

Clayton, Jc has me build his diff's for his 22...
Oyeah....
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:15 AM   #5302
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carbide or kit thurst is just as smooth and its durabity is almost the same as ceramic version.

You still have not switched to ceramic diff balls though ?????


Dude ? C - on ....lol

Clayton, Jc has me build his diff's for his 22...
Oyeah....
Might be true with the AE thrust but the TLR thrust is definitely their weak spot. I've even had the thrust washers crack and break up. Haven't tried the ceramic diff balls yet - the regular ones seem to last a really long time. I do have a set of 12 and I think that's all the 22-4 uses so maybe I'll give them a try in the front diff.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:21 AM   #5303
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Personally never been able to wear or flat spot a ceramic diff ball GTI.

They will out last 20 sets of outdrives and still be smooth.

Jc also uses the improved thrust in his TLR like you are.
Also still uses the Ae diff screw as well.
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:56 PM   #5304
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Personally, I think this is where you are having problems. I never do that and have smooth, long lasting diffs. Maybe 10 seconds per side max. I think they break in naturally on the track as long as it never, ever, ever barks. And I run my diff pretty tight.
I break in my diff outside the car with a drill motor. Low speed for 30 seconds on each side. Tighten a 1/16 then repeat. Continue process until diff is about 1/8th from fully tight. Check after several minutes of slow run in on track. Tighten if necessary.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:25 PM   #5305
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Anyone one running a 8.5 in this car? I know what the manual says, so please dont point me at it. I tried to used an avid 76 last night with a 22T pinion, and bam it wont mess up. I assume a 76/23 would mess up. I have a 21/81 in the car for now with he AE 2 pad. I would rather use my avid slipper. Anyone using the 76/23 gearing? heat issues?
23/76 should not be an issue with 8.5t
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:43 PM   #5306
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Im going to try this 40 gram weight i made to see how it does in loose conditions. The car is awesome but the rear motor still has a more planted feel. Hopefully, this will give me the best of both. I just hope it doesnt suck.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:56 PM   #5307
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Casper-RC.com, bfast and avid all have good caged thrust bearings.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:29 PM   #5308
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Im going to try this 40 gram weight i made to see how it does in loose conditions. The car is awesome but the rear motor still has a more planted feel. Hopefully, this will give me the best of both. I just hope it doesnt suck.
Shines like a Marines belt buckle..

Nice work..
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:34 PM   #5309
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adding weight.... Colin Chapman is turning over in his grave.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:37 PM   #5310
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Thanks buddy. I am going to polish it if it works out well. Its straight off my machine. To make sure nothing slips, i milled 90 degree bosses on the back that fit into the countersunk holes in the tower to ensure the shock tower stays alligned in a crash. So pretty much, its as rigid if not more than it was before. If its good, im going to make a stackable set that i can add or remove weight.
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