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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:25 PM   #5281
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I sincerely apologize if this has already been asked in this thread, but is there any whispers of a FT b5M on the horizon? I got burned buying a B4.2 about 2 months before the B5m came out despite me poking around asking if anything new was coming. I want to buy a mid, but don't want to get burned twice. Last weekend George convinced me I need to convert to mid.. I just don't want to convert at the wrong time again.

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Old 06-17-2014, 03:58 AM   #5282
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I sincerely apologize if this has already been asked in this thread, but is there any whispers of a FT b5M on the horizon? I got burned buying a B4.2 about 2 months before the B5m came out despite me poking around asking if anything new was coming. I want to buy a mid, but don't want to get burned twice. Last weekend George convinced me I need to convert to mid.. I just don't want to convert at the wrong time again.

Thanks!
If you are running stock, you will probably want pucks which are not part of ft kit. Alum top shaft may be part of kit. Slipper eliminator not part of kit. Titanium turnbuckles part of kit unless you prefer Lunsford. Believe that is about it. Everything else will probably not make that big a diff in results.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:12 AM   #5283
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Anyone one running a 8.5 in this car? I know what the manual says, so please dont point me at it. I tried to used an avid 76 last night with a 22T pinion, and bam it wont mess up. I assume a 76/23 would mess up. I have a 21/81 in the car for now with he AE 2 pad. I would rather use my avid slipper. Anyone using the 76/23 gearing? heat issues?
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:27 AM   #5284
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Are they out of schelle or avid spur gears at w3?
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:30 AM   #5285
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Are they out of schelle or avid spur gears at w3?
Probably not. But i want to move the motor back further, hence the smaller spur. I though a 76/22 worked, but it does not. If I need a 78 for mesh, then I will pick one up tomorrow.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:53 AM   #5286
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Last weekend George convinced me I need to convert to mid.. I just don't want to convert at the wrong time again.

Thanks!
Think your safe , nothing new for long time long now..

Will help you build if you wish..
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:33 AM   #5287
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I have not really run much mod, but I have been able to get my stock diff completely smooth when grabbing the rear hexes and twisting. But Mod seems to require a tighter diff to keep from slipping. And the tightness that is required always seems to feel gritty to me. Is there a trick to get a tight diff perfectly smooth? And i am using Bfast rings already. My 17.5 diffs are as smooth as a gear diff. Can the tight diff be the same smoothness?
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:35 AM   #5288
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I'm running stock now and still have the kit diff. I like my diff tight and I have mine pretty tight right now and it still feels really smooth.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:38 AM   #5289
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will my car handel better with a body and wing don't ask there at the painter for 2 3 mo and I ran laps naked
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:38 AM   #5290
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I'm running stock now and still have the kit diff. I like my diff tight and I have mine pretty tight right now and it still feels really smooth.
you racing tomorrow? I would like to see how your diff feels compared to mine.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:39 AM   #5291
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I have not really run much mod, but I have been able to get my stock diff completely smooth when grabbing the rear hexes and twisting. But Mod seems to require a tighter diff to keep from slipping. And the tightness that is required always seems to feel gritty to me. Is there a trick to get a tight diff perfectly smooth? And i am using Bfast rings already. My 17.5 diffs are as smooth as a gear diff. Can the tight diff be the same smoothness?
You don't need the Bfast rings to make a smooth diff - simply use the caged ceramic ball thrust rings with grooved washers. You just slowly tighten the diff while moving it around between each time you tighten it. Mine is silky smooth and has remained so for **hours** of run time with a 7.5 motor. You bark it once and it's gonna degrade quickly so make sure you run it tight enough that it never barks.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:39 AM   #5292
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No but it's not far I could swing by after work
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:42 AM   #5293
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Is there a trick to get a tight diff perfectly smooth? And i am using Bfast rings already. My 17.5 diffs are as smooth as a gear diff. Can the tight diff be the same smoothness?
Proper break-in.

Tighten a 1/8-1/4 turn, spin, tighten another 1/8-1/4 spin, and so on.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:43 AM   #5294
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You don't need the Bfast rings to make a smooth diff - simply use the caged ceramic ball thrust rings with grooved washers. You just slowly tighten the diff while moving it around between each time you tighten it. Mine is silky smooth and has remained so for **hours** of run time with a 7.5 motor. You bark it once and it's gonna degrade quickly so make sure you run it tight enough that it never barks.
Yeah, I still need to try those avid ceramic caged thrusts. Are you using carbide balls?
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:46 AM   #5295
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Proper break-in.

Tighten a 1/8-1/4 turn, spin, tighten another 1/8-1/4 spin, and so on.
yeah, I do that. in between tighening, I trim the throttle ahead to it can run at low speeds for about a minute, then repeat. And it feels great until it starts to get "tight", then it starts to feel gritty. Maybe my version of tight and others is different. Maybe I am too tight.
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