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Old 06-10-2014, 08:47 AM   #5146
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yeah, I wont win lol. I just want to run a second class, and I hate hate hate short course. And 4wd buggy is just to fragile for my liking. 2wd buggy is my favorite class, so even if I am in last place I will enjoy it. I keep selling stuff, then need it 2 months later. It has happened at least a dozen times in the last year. I may end up just boosting a 13.5 or 10.5 for mod. I ran a 13.5 a few weeks ago on the current layout, and that is all the motor I really need. But there may be layouts in the future where i need more grunt. I am not concerned about top speed, but the low end grunt from a lower turn motor cant be tuned with boost. I have tried and its always fail. Maybe better to get a 8.5 and de-tune it accordingly to my liking.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:55 AM   #5147
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Originally Posted by scythe23 View Post
Lol I hate when I do that. Wish I was good enough to run mod...oh well practice practice. Mod competition is stiff at w3, he'll last week rivkin lapped second place
All that's needed for mod, or any racing really, is consistency. Hit your marks every lap, stay off the pipe, avoid traffic/have patience, and you'll always place well.

17.5 is great to start, but people tend to linger too long. Don't be afraid to motor up, and go after the "fast guys" in mod. On smaller tracks, and even some bigger ones, I've had my butt kicked my more consistent 17.5 drivers.

p.s. If transitioning to mod, start with 9.5/8.5 motor. 10.5 feels weird (overly torquey), and anything hotter can definitely be a handful.

p.p.s. Even the "Pros" limit the throttle EPA.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:59 AM   #5148
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Schelle Racing Nova "Stock" Slipper Assembly
[SHL1301]

or the aivd one?
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:03 AM   #5149
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Schelle Racing Nova "Stock" Slipper Assembly
[SHL1301]

or the aivd one?
Either one both almost the same.
Also get a couple red pads Vito.
Use white on back of spur & the two red on the outside of spur.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:05 AM   #5150
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thanks wc I love this car
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:09 AM   #5151
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All that's needed for mod, or any racing really, is consistency. Hit your marks every lap, stay off the pipe, avoid traffic/have patience, and you'll always place well.

17.5 is great to start, but people tend to linger too long. Don't be afraid to motor up, and go after the "fast guys" in mod. On smaller tracks, and even some bigger ones, I've had my butt kicked my more consistent 17.5 drivers.

p.s. If transitioning to mod, start with 9.5/8.5 motor. 10.5 feels weird (overly torquey), and anything hotter can definitely be a handful.

p.p.s. Even the "Pros" limit the throttle EPA.
hopefully, more guys will run mod and we can have the mains sort out drivers. In the past i avoided mod, simple because mod on low bite sucks, lol. But now that I am racing on a higher bite track, mod seems like a good idea.

We can sometimes get a B main in Mod, but stock often has D mains. That is the main reason I consider Stock to be my main class. The close racing in stock makes for fun racing.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:54 AM   #5152
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If we could get more people running mod for more mains I would def run mod. I don't care if i lose but honestly I don't want to get in the really good guys way if there is only one main
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:08 AM   #5153
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If we could get more people running mod for more mains I would def run mod. I don't care if i lose but honestly I don't want to get in the really good guys way if there is only one main
The really good guys will skate right by you. The most important thing you can do is run your race. Maybe give him the inside line though a turn, or make room on the straight. The absolute WORST thing you can do is come to a stop though, nobody expects that.
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Old 06-10-2014, 01:15 PM   #5154
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Sooo I did the MM conversion last night. I was missing 1x 3x8mm FHCS screw. I was about to head over to the LHS and get some, when I decided to searth through the B5 PDF manual for the part number....guess what there is 1x of these screws used on the B5RM car....to hold the rear body mount. Personally, I think the conversion should have come with all of the screws to mount the side pods, but whatever. There should AT LEAST be instruction saying to reuse that screw. I completely forgot about that little Sh&t. So its all good. Now where are the missing 3x10mm FHCS screws supposed to come from, lol. I was missing 2 of them and unsure where to steal them off the RM car.....I love AE and all, but they are releasing a ton of stuff without instructions. I really need to pickup some spare screws...I have tons of 4-40 stuff... hardly any 3mm stuff.


Just searched the RM car manual for 25202 (3x10mm FHCS) and it contains 5 of them. 2 for the top plate and 3 for the motor plate. I already used all of those in the conversion. So I guess I will need to pick some up to cover the 2 missing screws, lol. AE, I love you like a wife.
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:22 PM   #5155
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So Im switching over from 4WD. Decided on the B5M as I primarily come from touring car/ 4wd buggy background, and the mid-motor cars seem to fit my driving style.
With that said, about to order the B5M, and Im wondering if there are any spares or option parts I should get out of the gate? Such as Aluminum hingepin braces/arm mounts? Thanks all!
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:26 PM   #5156
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I plan to get the Lunsford Turnbuckles, Alum suspension holders and alum rear camber block. The plastic suspension holders are fine, but the alum ones with inserts have more and easier tuning. The alum camber block and Turnbuckles are just a durability thing. A lot of guys are running the flat RM front arms and tower plus the RM rear arms for more forward sweep. This is a tuning option. you may not need it, but want for tuning.
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Old 06-10-2014, 03:55 PM   #5157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
p.s. If transitioning to mod, start with 9.5/8.5 motor. 10.5 feels weird (overly torquey), and anything hotter can definitely be a handful.
I once read somewhere (forget where) that there was something inherent in "odd numbered" windings that make them smoother than even number windings. For example, 9.5s are smoother than 8.5s. 7.5s are also smoother than 8.5s... and so on. No idea if it is true, but I always loved my Fantom 9.5s as they were really fast, and also very smooth/easy to drive.

And don't forget, there is nothing wrong with running a 17.5 with a little boost or a little turbo for some more straight-away speed, in Mod. Heck, if you want a little more power, I would encourage going to a 13.5 before an 8.5! Work your way up as your skill increases.
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Old 06-10-2014, 04:54 PM   #5158
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Hi guys, just found this thread.lots of good info on here. I have been out of the sport for a looooong time and got the bug again.bought b5m and cant wait to try it...hopefully this week.heres some pic.
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Old 06-10-2014, 04:59 PM   #5159
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Question.....do I have the camber link mount on right?. Do the thick mounts go on top or bottom?I measured from the chassie to the top of the ball with the stock and aluminum mount the way it is now is as close to stock as possible.
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Old 06-10-2014, 05:23 PM   #5160
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Is there an embargo against the clamping front hexes from AE??? WTF is the delay?
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