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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:12 PM   #4966
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personally i have noticed i change my race line to a much more "open" corner with the mid motor car.



while the light line was more how i drove a rear motor car, the dark line is more how i have to drive my mid motor car.
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:39 PM   #4967
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
My b5m geared 72/33 with a 17.5 reedy sonic with 43* timing never goes above 160 degrees. The car is at 1562g rtr. With my 7.5 78/21 I never go above 130. No heat problems at all for me. People that run 69/32 run into heat issues.
Not if you run a fan...... 105 all day long zero fade in a heat/main.
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:41 PM   #4968
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tbird.... on the brakes you want just enough to slow the car quickly.. not lock up the back.. the whole idea is to carry your corner speed.. that's were races are won.. if you figure there are 8-12 corners on a typical offroad track.. if you can gain even 1/4 a second a corner then your 2-3 seconds a lap faster!!!! Huge difference.

also be careful if your running the stock slipper as if you run it to loose the metal disc between the pads will get to hot and cause the discs to swell and the slipper becomes inconsistent and make your car start feeling looser about halfway thru the race.

the vented vs slipper discs from associated are way lighter and much more consistant.. easy and inexpensive switch.
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Old 06-01-2014, 09:51 PM   #4969
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
kinda silly going by someone's so call weight their claiming..

They can miss the body , tires ECT..
Just saying..


Big weight tip

AE rim's are lighter then the rest & by a fair amount.

Easy couple gram per wheel.
AE rims are lighter, I want to say about 1 gram each rim. Got mine below 1500 so I am happy. Get to add weight as needed now.
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Old 06-01-2014, 09:54 PM   #4970
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Originally Posted by Jake S View Post
personally i have noticed i change my race line to a much more "open" corner with the mid motor car.



while the light line was more how i drove a rear motor car, the dark line is more how i have to drive my mid motor car.
Not so much of a wide arc as rear motor. Hot in and hot out with mid. Makes me think if I have changed my style??
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:19 PM   #4971
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slipper adjustment


If your using the kit VTS adjust the locknut so the slipper shaft is flush with the locknut.

That's the sweet spot for the best performance..

We get a fresh layout tommorow at Trcr.

This Tuesdays club race traction will be way less then what we had today on the old layout.

Changing my rear toe from 2.5/1 back to 3.0/1..

Leaving the rear chassis camber stud in the outside position.

Really recommend you guys to try in fact.
The car handles hard entry into the corner so much better.
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:01 AM   #4972
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Who doesn't love a hard entry..

er uh.. makes for a good block pass. yeah.
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:33 AM   #4973
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I got the Phantom body for the b5m last night I cut out the vents in the back I'm just wondering is anyone else coming out the front windshield for better airflow and cooling on the mid motor and if I do will that had a lot of drag to my car
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:39 AM   #4974
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I got the Phantom body for the b5m last night I cut out the vents in the back I'm just wondering is anyone else coming out the front windshield for better airflow and cooling on the mid motor and if I do will that had a lot of drag to my car
Well, I would make a hole not a square for the windshield cut out. holes tend to have less cracking, than a square on the corners. Secondly, for ROAR, I think cutting you the windshield is illegal. The cab forward windshield is "supposed" to act like a front wing and help with steering. So... if you have a space practice body and dont mind trying a big hole in it go for it. Lastly, if you run on a dusty or fluffy track, a lot of that debris will come through your front windows, because your front tires will kick it up in there.


IMO, what we really need is a replacement chassis brace that had a mount and cutouts for a fan. No one will make a plastic one, so it probably be delrin or aluminum. I dont know if it could be 3D printed. Someone was making 3D printed ones for the TLR22.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:31 AM   #4975
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
get use to , mid motor takes time .

Also mid hates heavy braking.

Practice to be smoother entering corners and smoother on throttle .

Personally run about 15% softer brake then if using a rear motor .
Why get used to a bad setup?

Replace that 4 gear with a 3 gear and put the weight where it needs to be to generate enough grip and all your problems will be solved!
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:36 AM   #4976
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Thanks wildcat. I run at warehouse 3 on damp clay so dust isn't an issue I was more worried about aerodynamics. Do you race at w3?
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:45 AM   #4977
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Thanks wildcat. I run at warehouse 3 on damp clay so dust isn't an issue I was more worried about aerodynamics. Do you race at w3?
Yeah, I run at w3. I have no idea on your skill elvel and if you will notice a difference in "feel". If you have a spare body, you can always try it. Make sure the air has an Exit. Air comes in and then goes out. How hot are you running at w3 not with a 17.5?
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:02 AM   #4978
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I used to race 8th scale nitro and just got back into rc a few weeks ago. I'm learning electric and 2wd now so my skill still leaves a lot to be desired lol. My rear motor was running 35 degree timing with 33/66 at about 120 degrees. Mid motor same setup got hot so turned timing down to 20 degrees. I'm thinking of picking up a hacker 17.5 motor to replace my trinity fantom 17.5 I hear they are monster stock motors and run cool
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:07 AM   #4979
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I used to race 8th scale nitro and just got back into rc a few weeks ago. I'm learning electric and 2wd now so my skill still leaves a lot to be desired lol. My rear motor was running 35 degree timing with 33/66 at about 120 degrees. Mid motor same setup got hot so turned timing down to 20 degrees. I'm thinking of picking up a hacker 17.5 motor to replace my trinity fantom 17.5 I hear they are monster stock motors and run cool
yeah, I have yet to try the hacker motors. The guys in Phx love them. I normally gain about 20-30 deg running MM on average. IMo a fan is probably what is needed, but AE didnt really put that option into the car. Maybe something someone makes later on. Another local phx driver gave up on MM for 17.5 and just runs his RM in 17.5 and MM in mod. I know Kinwald plans to test 17.5 mm at w3, but he said he will probably run fans. I am sure his mods will be interesting, since they always are. He is the guy that made a custom chassis from a cutting board, lol.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:12 AM   #4980
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I would love to run mod but i know the only people at w3 that run mod are for the most part very good drivers. I don't really care if i lose but don't wanna get in the way of the faster guys so i think I'm stuck in stock for now. Would love to see a fan mount come out
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