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Old 05-31-2014, 06:29 PM   #4936
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Were doing the opposite, been working to free the car up so it's Hard everywhere & battery forward to get better jumping & stability in the corners.

You tried adding some bump steer yet ?

That's my next change to test..
Heard good things about doing.
Hears the thing..from what I have tested, I feel that moving the arms forward will free the car up laterally and gain forward traction and helps free the car up from the mid corner stall we all refer to. Less stability but way better cornering. I have also swapped all parts to hard plastics except a few pieces that I will be getting shortly. I will say that with the shorty inline the car jumped a lot better over centered setup but I am far more consistant with the centered setup. I just installed the brass offset bushings today actually and am looking forward to testing it out.
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:00 PM   #4937
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Default off set bushing

Can 't wait to hear all about...

already found out how for myself.

Up ^ more on power steering. I don't believe your gona like.

Let me know...
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Old 05-31-2014, 07:42 PM   #4938
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Probably not going to get the top speed out of it that you want. I'm running 33/72 with a 17.5 and 30 degree timing on a reedy. You are going to want to get the 72 tooth spur.

Robert
Wouldn't a smaller spur give me more top end? I was worried about losing torque. Or am I thinking about this wrong
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:02 PM   #4939
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Wouldn't a smaller spur give me more top end? I was worried about losing torque. Or am I thinking about this wrong
Sorry, you are right - was late when I answered this. Heres the math - also may explain why you run a bit hot. Likely will only get worse with 33/66

33/66 2.000:1 - 5.2 FDR (tall gearing / lower # = more top end, less torque)
33/69 2.091:1 - 5.436 FDR


33/72 2.182:1 - 5.673 FDR


Associated recommends 31/69 for stock, which is FDR of 5.79

You could try 30/66 which is 5.72, or 31/66 which is 5.535 and adjust timing according to heat. May have a problem getting pinion close enough to mesh though.

Heres a good article on gear ratios that helped me get my head around it years ago - and again when i just had a brain fart.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ear_ratios.pdf
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:05 PM   #4940
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Awsome. Thanks for the help. I'll run the 66 tomorrow and on tue when. Parts come in I'll snag a 72
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Old 06-01-2014, 12:42 AM   #4941
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I'm going to finally build my M this week but I am going to build it 17.5 first and see how it compares to my rm which is also 17.5, I will not be doing any of the tricks to lighten it I want to drive the car stock before I go extreme. Wish me Luck lol
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Old 06-01-2014, 12:54 AM   #4942
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I'm going to finally build my M this week but I am going to build it 17.5 first and see how it compares to my rm which is also 17.5, I will not be doing any of the tricks to lighten it I want to drive the car stock before I go extreme. Wish me Luck lol
Will be great toner your feedback for those of us that are considering both
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Old 06-01-2014, 01:37 AM   #4943
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Will be great toner your feedback for those of us that are considering both
will def let you guys know hopefully I can get out on wensday and race it
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:26 AM   #4944
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mason, its the rear alum part that the inner camber link ball stud attaches to.
cherry, I have my speedo just in front of the battery like Hartson has his , I cant post pics, sorry
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:50 AM   #4945
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mason, its the rear alum part that the inner camber link ball stud attaches to.
cherry, I have my speedo just in front of the battery like Hartson has his , I cant post pics, sorry
No big bout the image..

Were all going the other way , with ESC in the rear you get rid of the spaghetti look making for a lighter car.

when you pack all the weight towards the rear its just too much ,car can bottom easier slapping the ramp & then it tends to also jump nose high much easier.
Give our way a try because the car gains a great deal of stability in the corners , jumps & landing improve a great deal.This is in comparison to how your running the car now.

Notice how we are grinding the battery tray off the side pod, this helped restore traction from the weight being moved forward. Either way has about the same grip but with more weight foward you get all that stability & jumping improvements.
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:45 AM   #4946
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images
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:55 AM   #4947
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Old 06-01-2014, 09:03 AM   #4948
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will a 200mm wire will be long to the motor esc in the stock spots
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Old 06-01-2014, 09:31 AM   #4949
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will a 200mm wire will be long to the motor esc in the stock spots
200mm will work but will be long. These will work well.
http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...s+By+Design%29
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Old 06-01-2014, 09:33 AM   #4950
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200mm will work but will be long. These will work well.
http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...s+By+Design%29
thank you I got a round lrp 200mm all the shop had
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