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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:29 AM   #4381
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Already have it, and I will probably get the arm mounts to remove the slop in them
looks like a sweet ride.
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:34 AM   #4382
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I hope so, right now I'm running mod with an 8.5, and it is an absolute blast to drive, I'm just not consistent enough in mod, and a lot if the mod drivers at my track have sponsorships
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:11 AM   #4383
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Been loving my rear motor, just ordered a mid. I am planning on running 17.5 with it. Is there a good setup for a medium grip, clay surface that would be a good starting point?
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:15 AM   #4384
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The box set up worked pretty good for me, there is still some refinement I'm going to be trying over the next few weeks, but it felt very balanced to me
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:40 AM   #4385
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Oman !
Speaking bout shocks .....

Tomorrow testing Losi # 55 x 4 piston
35w front 30w rear..

I tell everyone want happens , can trust me..
Wouldn't you want to try the 56 pistons? The 54 and 55 are more like a 1.8 or 1.85 2 hole.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/OffRoad...istonChart.pdf
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:25 AM   #4386
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Just wanted to point out that this is super important. The first batch of aluminum steering racks that went out did not include the crush washer and it resulted in a gritty feel in the steering rack. If you got one of the first batch just email AE and they'll send you a replacement.

And to be clear, you put that little washer in between the two bearings on the rack. It's just like the crush washer that goes between the bearings in the front steering blocks.

from a while back...decided to use search button anyway. not trying to doubt you man...just curious. being that the aluminum is sold separately, why would the crush washers go in the steering rack? i would think those would be included in the kit itself when purchased.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:30 AM   #4387
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they go between the bearing in the plastic rack. when you assemble the plastic rack onto the plastic cranks, most people back off the screw to prevent binding. With the alum cranks this can make the screws get loose and fall out. So in order to snug the rack onto the alum cranks, a crush tube is used to allow a tighter screw and not bind on the bearings.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:31 AM   #4388
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pick up a b5 m kit with thekin rs gen 2 with 8.5
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:13 AM   #4389
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because the molded kit's plastic racks dont need a crush tube
the rack is unchanged regardless of the aluminum bellcranks being added or not. is it a weight/pressure thing or what? just trying to figure things out before i put this thing together. much appreciated
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:16 AM   #4390
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:28 AM   #4391
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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-untitled.png
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:46 AM   #4392
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But beside the turnbuckles you haven't experienced any big weaknesses?
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I can tell you from personal experience that the "hard" parts break very easily in even a moderate crash.

I just had the entire front end knocked off my car. Both the top plate and the front chassis brace snapped. The aluminum chassis acted as a fulcrum to help snap the front chassis brace. That bace broke in a straight line right at the front of the aluminum plate.

I should have known though because on my very first run with the car I BARELY touched a pipe and a flat B5 hard front arm.

The sad thing is if you break anything on these cars you're down for a while because it so hard to find parts. In this case it's taken me two days to find a replacement hard front chassis brace plus it'll take at least two day to get here so I'm pretty much out for the week.

When it breaks again (not if, i know it will) I'm rebuilding with plastic parts.

I have two B5M's one is pretty much stock, other than shock mounts and a Schelle slipper. There is a noticeable difference between how the car with plastic parts feels and the how the care with all hard parts feels.

Both handle well, but the car with hard parts is feels more connected to me and feels more precise.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:20 AM   #4393
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I don't know how you guys are breaking this thing.. I run on probably the hardest packed, highest bite surface in the country - granted its an "easier" layout this time around but the ground and pipes do not give and as our saying goes "the walls are undefeated" and after 2 months or flipping, bouncing into pipes trying to cut the corners tight, the occasional dive bomb, etc, the only problems with my ride is the slop that it was built with (i haven't taken it out yet) and the lack of cooling on the internals.
Somebody has managed to break a tower or an arm - i forget which but it has only been 1, ONE, UNO, EIN, UN, some other language.

here's a video of the layout
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWIlW6_ehA0

So let me ask of you who are breaking.. Are you using the slop eliminating set screws or shimming the kit to death? are you wailing into poles and the like? Is it 30 below zero on race day? Are you spraying some sort of chemical on the car to clean it and it might be weakening the plastic? What turn motor are you running? How much aluminum have you added?

As far as parts go - the only thing I recall not seeing on the wall was the B5 RM front tower on the wall as everyone keeps buying it before i can to try out the flat front arms. If you're place can't get the majority of parts - they have some distributor issues. Seriously.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:23 AM   #4394
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Wouldn't you want to try the 56 pistons? The 54 and 55 are more like a 1.8 or 1.85 2 hole.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/OffRoad...istonChart.pdf
Im just learning about, got to try ...
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:28 AM   #4395
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