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Old 05-09-2014, 11:38 AM   #4246
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also my old cars go on the shelf because I wouldn't unleash that amount of abuse on some one else lol.
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:45 AM   #4247
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also my old cars go on the shelf because I wouldn't unleash that amount of abuse on some one else lol.
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:49 AM   #4248
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My request was not a compliment nor any sort of derision. I was merely curious about the amount of money some of you racers are spending to improve performance.

I'm thinking about getting some front axles and top shaft myself.
too much. I try to keep it minimal for stock racing and barely anything additional for mod.

The things I like are:
- lunsfords ~30 (mod and stock)
- Avid Slipper ~30 (mod and stock)
- Alum top shaft ~15 (mod and stock)
- alum rear camber block ~18 (mod and stock)
- alum rear bone (tlr22) ~18 (stock only)
- Avid revolution bearings ~25 (mod and stock)

so about $136. Now that I am pricing it out......maybe I should buy less stuff....For mod the stock top shaft is probably fine, but for stock I found it was not terrible free and cause extra heat. And for mod I could just use the vts I guess. so in the 50-136 dollar range for me. I dont go stupid on upgrades. I got over that finally in the past 2 years. For a very very long time I was an upgrade crazed fool. But i finally got it...most of these upgrades are useless for mod . stock....well its a money sink, but I refuse to go all in (pucks, cut gears, replace batterys and motors every 4 weeks)... unless I get really good and goto nats and have a shot at doing well.
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:40 PM   #4249
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i think you guys worry about stuff you shouldn't be worrying about,i don't care how much you spend on your car,if you can't stay on 4 wheels its all useless
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:42 PM   #4250
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too much. I try to keep it minimal for stock racing and barely anything additional for mod.

The things I like are:
- lunsfords ~30 (mod and stock)
- Avid Slipper ~30 (mod and stock)
- Alum top shaft ~15 (mod and stock)
- alum rear camber block ~18 (mod and stock)
- alum rear bone (tlr22) ~18 (stock only)
- Avid revolution bearings ~25 (mod and stock)

so about $136. Now that I am pricing it out......maybe I should buy less stuff....For mod the stock top shaft is probably fine, but for stock I found it was not terrible free and cause extra heat. And for mod I could just use the vts I guess. so in the 50-136 dollar range for me. I dont go stupid on upgrades. I got over that finally in the past 2 years. For a very very long time I was an upgrade crazed fool. But i finally got it...most of these upgrades are useless for mod . stock....well its a money sink, but I refuse to go all in (pucks, cut gears, replace batterys and motors every 4 weeks)... unless I get really good and goto nats and have a shot at doing well.
does the aluminum top shaft help for mod? Which upgrades are more essential for mod? I already have everything for my stock one, pucks, cut gears, top shaft, clamping fronts, lunsford shock mounts
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:52 PM   #4251
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i think you guys worry about stuff you shouldn't be worrying about,i don't care how much you spend on your car,if you can't stay on 4 wheels its all useless
and this is why I dont do mega upgrades anymore Just durability and a little to reduce motor temps in 17.5. Then its TIRES TIRES TIRES. Not practice because I only have time for 2-3 packs of practice a week
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:01 PM   #4252
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does the aluminum top shaft help for mod? Which upgrades are more essential for mod? I already have everything for my stock one, pucks, cut gears, top shaft, clamping fronts, lunsford shock mounts
The machined topshaft just seems to be smoother. Meaning, when I spin the spur with my fingers I get more revolutions and it much more free. I assume this is because its machined and not because its alum. Durability wise, the alum top shaft seems to hold up fine in mod. Also, my tranny seems quieter and I just dislike loud trannies. I would not say its required for mod. The "smoothness" does seem to help with temps in stock, which is very nice. Essential upgrades for mod? Well, the alum rear camber block for durability and IMO the titanium turnbuckles. Although I see sponsored guys and some fast guys running the steel. But the steel bend pretty easy. IMO nothing else is "required", I dislike DNFs so I upgrade anything that is "weak". For the MM car the rear camber block is the only "weak" part and it is not overly weak. I see lots of guys using the kit plastic one without issues. As for bearings, you can also replace as needed. the beefy rear bearing are unlikely to explode like the ones on the b4 and the front will get gritty, but probably wont cause a DNF. But I like to have spare front wheel bearing so I normally pickup a 10 pack of front wheel bearing from AVID. Kyosho and TLR use the same front bearing, so if you ever switch brands, they are usable on other cars.
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Old 05-09-2014, 03:34 PM   #4253
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i think you guys worry about stuff you shouldn't be worrying about,i don't care how much you spend on your car,if you can't stay on 4 wheels its all useless
Yup
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:41 PM   #4254
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The machined topshaft just seems to be smoother. Meaning, when I spin the spur with my fingers I get more revolutions and it much more free. I assume this is because its machined and not because its alum. Durability wise, the alum top shaft seems to hold up fine in mod. Also, my tranny seems quieter and I just dislike loud trannies. I would not say its required for mod. The "smoothness" does seem to help with temps in stock, which is very nice. Essential upgrades for mod? Well, the alum rear camber block for durability and IMO the titanium turnbuckles. Although I see sponsored guys and some fast guys running the steel. But the steel bend pretty easy. IMO nothing else is "required", I dislike DNFs so I upgrade anything that is "weak". For the MM car the rear camber block is the only "weak" part and it is not overly weak. I see lots of guys using the kit plastic one without issues. As for bearings, you can also replace as needed. the beefy rear bearing are unlikely to explode like the ones on the b4 and the front will get gritty, but probably wont cause a DNF. But I like to have spare front wheel bearing so I normally pickup a 10 pack of front wheel bearing from AVID. Kyosho and TLR use the same front bearing, so if you ever switch brands, they are usable on other cars.
Wow you writing your dissertation for your master's?
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:43 PM   #4255
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The machined topshaft just seems to be smoother. Meaning,-----Snip.
I have just installed the MIP aluminum top shaft and noticed the opposite. If anything it seems noticeably louder.
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:46 PM   #4256
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It's just anything else. How many times have you seen a car with 2k worth of rims and tires on it and the car is worth 1k and most of all does it make the car faster ?
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:53 PM   #4257
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It's just anything else. How many times have you seen a car with 2k worth of rims and tires on it and the car is worth 1k and most of all does it make the car faster ?
I like the loud pipes that sound like crap and do make you faster. And lots of camber lol
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:42 PM   #4258
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i think you guys worry about stuff you shouldn't be worrying about,i don't care how much you spend on your car,if you can't stay on 4 wheels its all useless
Spent over $450 extra on upgrades...
Tommorow grinding & modifying mass...


Doing a inline shorty mod...

Yes, spend all you can , still not enough for Tacomptom...

Always something to do , change , buy & grind...
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:49 PM   #4259
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How you liking the 5m George
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:04 PM   #4260
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I didn't have any extra space when building my kit. ???
Nope, just stating mine fit nice and snug. Almost too snug, had a couple clips fly across the room during install.
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