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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:45 AM   #4096
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Your car looks real nice! Question: Why doesn't Lunsford make turn buckle kits that will allow the threads to bury all the way? Even the kit "steelies" will bury the threads, because they are 2" long.
Others mention they get a ball cup or two that sticks or binds .


Won't happen with the Lunsford...
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:36 AM   #4097
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Others mention they get a ball cup or two that sticks or binds .


Won't happen with the Lunsford...
The threads on the stock rods or 2" titanium rods don't go in so deep that they are stressing the actual cup though...that sticking/binding with the cup hole itself is due to either flashing or the cup being just a tick out of round is all. Compressing the cup hole just a bit on the side gently with pliers will free that binding right up.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:43 AM   #4098
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The threads on the stock rods or 2" titanium rods don't go in so deep that they are stressing the actual cup though...that sticking/binding with the cup hole itself is due to either flashing or the cup being just a tick out of round is all. Compressing the cup hole just a bit on the side gently with pliers will free that binding right up.
Not sure that's true. I originally installed the steel ones on my RM and the cups had some weird tight fits on a couple. All of them are completely free with new cups and the shorter Lunsford rods. Maybe luck? Dunno.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:59 AM   #4099
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The Typos you have on are why your car is illegally lite too. If you had golds on, you would be in the 1520's to 30's.
Right.... Evo rims/tires may be illegal now but with ALL major tire manufacturers following this style of mounting system it will be made legal soon.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:59 AM   #4100
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The threads on the stock rods or 2" titanium rods don't go in so deep that they are stressing the actual cup though...that sticking/binding with the cup hole itself is due to either flashing or the cup being just a tick out of round is all. Compressing the cup hole just a bit on the side gently with pliers will free that binding right up.
Nothing wrong with ball cups, the longer rod is pushing into the cup distorting it and causing it to bind.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:02 AM   #4101
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Ran my mid motor this weekend in stock and was awesome but I was struggling with front bite. Any suggestions to get more front end bite Seemed to push through the corners. Other than that it was awesome to drive made me look good. Great buggy to build also

Thanks Chris.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:09 PM   #4102
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Nothing wrong with ball cups, the longer rod is pushing into the cup distorting it and causing it to bind.
Are you REALLY that ignorant? So YOU are saying that the rods that come WITH the kits are too long, and they are distorting the the ball hole end? Do you REALLY think AE would give EVERYONE tie rods that are too long?
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:25 PM   #4103
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Are you REALLY that ignorant? So YOU are saying that the rods that come WITH the kits are too long, and they are distorting the the ball hole end? Do you REALLY think AE would give EVERYONE tie rods that are too long?
Do YOU REALLY think AE would design a front axle and bearing that didn't work in EVERY KIT??? oh wait they did and now have included proper shims to make it work......
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:26 PM   #4104
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Question - I know springs are more of an art than science on RC cars (kidding...) but I"m looking at two identical setups - I assume the one on the AE site has the AE springs on there because they don't want to sell the competitors springs for them. Anyway, one has Kyosho gold front and red rear while the one on the AE site has grey grey. Of course, my shop doesn't have greys so I was looking at losi springs which I have a bazillion of. So, petit has this chart and to make things worse, the kyosho red has a way high spring rating than the AE gray, except for the "measured" rate is almost identical. Anyway, I haven't ever really cared about brand to brand comparisons till now so if anyone can help. Here's the chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:32 PM   #4105
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Are you REALLY that ignorant? So YOU are saying that the rods that come WITH the kits are too long, and they are distorting the the ball hole end? Do you REALLY think AE would give EVERYONE tie rods that are too long?

Not ignorant & never rude to anyone that comes here for fun & information.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:39 PM   #4106
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Question - I know springs are more of an art than science on RC cars (kidding...) but I"m looking at two identical setups - I assume the one on the AE site has the AE springs on there because they don't want to sell the competitors springs for them. Anyway, one has Kyosho gold front and red rear while the one on the AE site has grey grey. Of course, my shop doesn't have greys so I was looking at losi springs which I have a bazillion of. So, petit has this chart and to make things worse, the kyosho red has a way high spring rating than the AE gray, except for the "measured" rate is almost identical. Anyway, I haven't ever really cared about brand to brand comparisons till now so if anyone can help. Here's the chart:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BuggyBigBoreSpring.pdf
The TLR LFR spring or the original ones? The original ones are very progressive. you can feel it in your hands. The AE and LFR springs are more linear. If you are going to "do your own thing" with springs, pick one that is close in rating and go up/down as needed for the feel you want. IMO the original TLR springs are junk.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:05 PM   #4107
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To cut the weight down; Titanium screw kit, AE aluminum top shaft, Schelle slipper eliminator. remove battery strap, thumb screws & foam, cut out all braces behind servo, between battery post, and triangle sections next to tranny mount. AKA Typo tires. Oh yea and the dog bones were polished chrome to make it go faster.
How does the battery stay in place
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:34 PM   #4108
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Not ignorant & never rude to anyone that comes here for fun & information.
But Cherry you are stating something that is just not true...and that in itself will mislead people. I'm done with this.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:45 PM   #4109
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Do YOU REALLY think AE would design a front axle and bearing that didn't work in EVERY KIT??? oh wait they did and now have included proper shims to make it work......
That was just quality control for the width of the crush tubes...the length of the kit tie rods do not vary...you either get them with, or with out threads LOL!
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:52 PM   #4110
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The TLR LFR spring or the original ones? The original ones are very progressive. you can feel it in your hands. The AE and LFR springs are more linear. If you are going to "do your own thing" with springs, pick one that is close in rating and go up/down as needed for the feel you want. IMO the original TLR springs are junk.
And the LFR TLR springs cover such a tiny range of adjustment, all grouped around the Pink although it looks like none of the lighter rear LFR springs might work out very well.

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