Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Never had the need to. I have sold cars on here before and then 6 months later I get a pm from the guy asking me how i built the diff in it because its still perfect.

RazzBarlow7

iTrader: (4)

Sandpaper glued to glass.You can even get trick like this guy did and put multiple grits on the same piece of glass.

Contact cement works good for gluing the paper down.

Make sure you use wet/dry sandpaper.

RazzBarlow7

iTrader: (4)

I'm not questioning your diff building or break-in skills. I just know that if you start out with an even, consistent surface, everything is better. Stock diff rings are punched out of a sheet of metal on a punch press and distortion is inevitable. The first time I held a set of B-Fast diff rings in my hand, I said "Nice".

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

+1 on that after you have built like 50 or more of them since 1990 something when the first stealth came out, you build them right dont need anything extra, i do like the caged thrust balls though and thats because they are easier to work with. Dont think they make the diff any smoother.
Razz I applaud you for your deligence in making your rings smoother if it works for you cool.
I just dont think its neccesary to do all that work just to do it over when it feels gritty again.
I race stock what do I know

racer_guy

iTrader: (5)

now im curious...what is your method?

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

proper break-in. I dont think i do it any different really than the manual suggests...just break it in for a while. Tightening as i go. Never loosen the diff to get your final setting, always tighten to get to final.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

If he tells you.....within a few hours you'll be getting a double "tap" from Seal Team 6

Jcozz

iTrader: (20)

Well building my second b5 I noticed the outdrives having a charcoal color to them. I can scratch it off. Could ruin my diff? If it was to flake off and make it all gritty? Really wanna run tomorrow.

xTotalghost

iTrader: (4)

how much lighter are the alumium screws to the steel ones?

predu

iTrader: (6)

the handometer scale says just a little bit

xTotalghost

iTrader: (4)

does the handometer say more or less than 50g difference?

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

Hell no. Not anywhere close.

Nemaris

iTrader: (18)

I do indeed sand all of my AE diff rings. It is mainly just to take out the variations in height on the surface of the ring. If you take a sharpie and color in the surface, then put your ring in the outdrive to sand it down on some 400 or 600 grit you will notice this by how much sharpie has been taken off. (make sure you place your sand paper on glass, marble, or anything really flat)

I don't know if they changed their manufacturing process since I started doing this, but it definitely helped the diff be smoother from the beginning on my B44.2.

Nemaris

iTrader: (18)

I actually use a method I discovered on here or youtube, sorry credit cannot be due since I don't know who started doing it first.

I bought a cheap dog bone that fit into all my 1/10 diffs, then I cut it in half so I can put the other end in the collet of my dremel.

This allows me to do a pre break in so I can have multiple diffs, and if one goes out I have one broken in ready to go. No sweat!

I first get the diff together using caged bearings from avid, or casper has nice ones too. Then I build the diff normally until I get to the part where you tighten the diff down all the way and back off. Instead of just tightening it down all the way which can cause flat spotted balls, I gradually tighten the diff spinning it for 30-40 seconds with the dremel with each 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the diff screw.
I hold the gear while doing all of this obviously, make sure you use the lowest speed possible that will turn the opposite outdrive. Also make sure that you get your diff tight enough to not slip by hand before starting this process.

I believe this will also work with a non impact drill that uses the standard chuck.

Wild Cherry

Step1
tighten diff one or two turn and rotate diff against your hand .
Repeat using fewer turns each step until the diff feels tight & you cannot make slip . Test by using two drivers into each outdrive and try to rotate gear by & with a rag to get a good grip.
Step 2
install diff inside transmission & car.

Run the motor at a slow speed and hold one wheel to break in the diff.
Takes about 1 min.
If you can feel the diff free up you will need to tighten it some more and repeat break end until you feel it is tight and broken in .