137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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02-16-2014, 07:08 AM
#3586
Yes it is totally worth the upgrade IMO. With the kit setup and no test time I added a lap to my fastest times the first day I threw it on the track. it handles better and jumps better than the B4.2 and I'm pretty sure it's stronger too.
In regards to BHammer002 and the ball cups: what are you doing wrong? I think the ball cups are awesome. I have no problem with them popping off when making adjustments and I should as I used Lunsford Ti turnbuckles from the B4 which are a good bit too long so I have extra engagement. Now I do as many have suggested in this thread and others, thread the cups on and off several times and use chapstick on the threads to lube them. Are they as lose as RPMs on my B4 using the same prep technique? No but they don't just pop off when I make adjustments either.
02-16-2014, 07:15 AM
#3587
Tech Regular
Poor BHammer002 lol. Anyways, I'll be building my car in a few days (as soon as I get in from offshore) and I actually found the tip about the chapstick to be usefull. I haven't built a new kit in years, so I've forgotten a lot of little things like that.
When you guys use the drill, are you just chucking the turnbuckle into the drill and holding the ball cup with plyers? Teach me your ways.
When you guys use the drill, are you just chucking the turnbuckle into the drill and holding the ball cup with plyers? Teach me your ways.
02-16-2014, 07:19 AM
#3588
Poor BHammer002 lol. Anyways, I'll be building my car in a few days (as soon as I get in from offshore) and I actually found the tip about the chapstick to be usefull. I haven't built a new kit in years, so I've forgotten a lot of little things like that.
When you guys use the drill, are you just chucking the turnbuckle into the drill and holding the ball cup with plyers? Teach me your ways.
When you guys use the drill, are you just chucking the turnbuckle into the drill and holding the ball cup with plyers? Teach me your ways.
02-16-2014, 07:21 AM
#3589
Tech Regular
Thanks! That's kind of what I was picturing.
02-16-2014, 07:24 AM
#3590
Tech Master
I normally use a small crescent wrench to hold the ball cup. It is undoubtedly the fastest way to get turnbuckles done! I used to dread doing them until someone showed me this trick. 
edit: Use a slower speed when you do it.
02-16-2014, 07:30 AM
#3591
Great--out of nowhere a huge debate starts on RM vs MM--cool it dudes!! 
02-16-2014, 07:43 AM
#3593
Tech Master
02-16-2014, 07:43 AM
#3594
oh you guys are killin me. Stick a wrench through the cup ? Screw that. I do not want any damage to the cup. Yes I can handle a tool : ) Building ? having a tough time with ball cups ? Build 2-3 gold tubs a week for a year and you get that figured out real fast. Open the box to roller in an hour. Any type of lube on the threads is good but bar soap works the best for me. As for the technique use the opposing threads of the turnbuckle to my advantage. Take the handy always ready when building 4/40 tap and put a couple threads in each cup, takes seconds and is easier and faster in the long run. Screw a cup on each end equally on each end of the turnbuckle. Take a 6 inch needlenose vise grips and clamp it onto the wrench flat of the turnbuckle. This is the technique... grab a cup in each hand, and this is hard to describe but we want to spin the wrench around by whipping your hands in little circles, fast and hard so the wrench is spinning and the weight if the wrench will screw the turnbuckle into both cups in seconds.
02-16-2014, 08:00 AM
#3595
Not really for more steering .
All for the extra grip that comes up in our mains.
Rear motor gets hard to drive on high traction.However the new
B5 is alot smoother then B4 and offers more tuning options to help control the grip.
Suggest for Mikes use green rear springs , don't change anything else cept maybe move rear hub to middle on arm.
All for the extra grip that comes up in our mains.
Rear motor gets hard to drive on high traction.However the new
B5 is alot smoother then B4 and offers more tuning options to help control the grip.
Suggest for Mikes use green rear springs , don't change anything else cept maybe move rear hub to middle on arm.
02-16-2014, 08:03 AM
#3596
02-16-2014, 08:08 AM
#3597
Go on YouTube and look up JBRL 2013 Rainmans. That's my home track and was a couple of months old at that race. Our guys hadn't quite got the watering schedule down, and for whatever reason that particular track set up would look dark but the racing line had like glazed over and was very slick. Kody N. and Jimmy B from associated were both running the Centro conversion and throwing down some serious lap times. I'm sure their skill helped but you can see how slick the track was. I believe Cody T was running his Kyosho rear motor at that race and Kody was putting a lap on him.
02-16-2014, 08:09 AM
#3598
The car is very, very easy to drive with the main problem being that the front axle screw backs out. Mine got loose after a few packs and 2x blue loc-tite. Poor Mr.Yeo had his front wheel come off in the A-main because of that. Maybe we just need to check them each run on high bite tracks?
02-16-2014, 08:14 AM
#3599
Maybe you should pick up some new loctite. Could it be that its old and not working as good as it should be. I loctited mine in from the beginning and then made trackside changes needing to re loctite the screw, with it not having enough time to 'set' before running again and i never had an issue with the screw backing out.
02-16-2014, 08:35 AM
#3600
Tech Regular
Virgin voyage of my B5 last night. Coming from a MM22 2.0 it took quite a few laps to get used to driving a RM car again. First I will ask about something I found, then I will post my adjustments that helped me.
Question… Has anybody noticed using the stock front axles, the trail inserts are/become loos in the spindle? It almost appears to me a shim is needed to keep the bearings and inserts in place and not loose. Is this the shim job described earlier in the thread? Other than this, I have not found any issue with the quality of the car whatsoever.
Adjustments made… I hit the track with a stock setup other than a small change in rear piston and oil my friend turned me to after he raced his last week. I started totally box stock other than 1.6 with 27.5 in the rear. I also decided my tire chasing needed to stop,too many brands and tread designs were causing me to become lost every now and then when looking for grip at different tracks. I chose JC V1 bar codes rear and Barcodes front. 3 different compounds used(gold,green,black). I ran until i figured out what tire seemed to work when. First adjustment was going to 27.5 up front with the stock 1.6 piston. Then I went to green rear springs and black up front(the car would deflect a bit from the bumps with the stiffer springs) using the 27.5 front and rear. I ran stock and mod so had all day during practice and 6 races to play. At the end of the heats I decided the car jumps nose high,a lot. This could be from driving style running MM for 7 months but still not comfortable. I added 14 grams right between the servo and the steering rack on the chassis, big help. Next weekend I will try 7 grams more. For me this helped the car balance in the air way easier and became easier to adjust mid air, also increased the front steering bite and absolutely no more push. I am going to contact Rocket RC to see if he can make brass hinge bulkheads(like the Ghea models for the B4 series) or even a brass hinge pin plate to add the weight all the way forward. This will help with balance, front grip, and make my car over minimum weight(weighed in at 1498 grams)
Very impressed so far as this is the first car I have had that only required minor changes to get comfortable and do well, 3rd in both A-mains
Question… Has anybody noticed using the stock front axles, the trail inserts are/become loos in the spindle? It almost appears to me a shim is needed to keep the bearings and inserts in place and not loose. Is this the shim job described earlier in the thread? Other than this, I have not found any issue with the quality of the car whatsoever.
Adjustments made… I hit the track with a stock setup other than a small change in rear piston and oil my friend turned me to after he raced his last week. I started totally box stock other than 1.6 with 27.5 in the rear. I also decided my tire chasing needed to stop,too many brands and tread designs were causing me to become lost every now and then when looking for grip at different tracks. I chose JC V1 bar codes rear and Barcodes front. 3 different compounds used(gold,green,black). I ran until i figured out what tire seemed to work when. First adjustment was going to 27.5 up front with the stock 1.6 piston. Then I went to green rear springs and black up front(the car would deflect a bit from the bumps with the stiffer springs) using the 27.5 front and rear. I ran stock and mod so had all day during practice and 6 races to play. At the end of the heats I decided the car jumps nose high,a lot. This could be from driving style running MM for 7 months but still not comfortable. I added 14 grams right between the servo and the steering rack on the chassis, big help. Next weekend I will try 7 grams more. For me this helped the car balance in the air way easier and became easier to adjust mid air, also increased the front steering bite and absolutely no more push. I am going to contact Rocket RC to see if he can make brass hinge bulkheads(like the Ghea models for the B4 series) or even a brass hinge pin plate to add the weight all the way forward. This will help with balance, front grip, and make my car over minimum weight(weighed in at 1498 grams)
Very impressed so far as this is the first car I have had that only required minor changes to get comfortable and do well, 3rd in both A-mains