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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:53 PM   #3001
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I dont know about you guys.... but I like strapping a rock to my cars, but only if I decide to run in stock. It helps weigh the car down to where you can using the chassis rubbing on the ground as drag brake. works like a charm!
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:55 PM   #3002
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and on the weight of car.. yes 6 or 7 oz. is heavier.. getting the car to within a ounce is what I was referring to. my mid is 1 ounce heavier then my rear motor car. and both are dialed. and yes I know there are some good drivers on here.. I have been a factory driver for just over 15 yrs.. I helped develop cars for yokomo, mrc, ofna and associated.. and I respect a lot of guys on here and try and help anyone I can. I just don't want a new guy to feel he has to spend hundreds on titanium and super light stuff to feel like that's the only way to be competitive when learning to drive and tune will help wonders first.
I am one of those new guys. Been driving short course for a couple of years and loving my new b5m. Only issue is a triple jump which can be a problem. My grandson said he heard some guys saying my buggy was not as fast as some of the others. Also noticed that some of my competitors clear the triple with ease after a 5-7 minute main. I run a gen2 tekin with 20 degrees of timing and 33/69 gearing. Temps at 135ish after 5 minutes. Tried increasing timing but temp went to 175. Any suggestions on how to get more power other than changing motors? Thanks
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:04 PM   #3003
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hey micah... how long are your straights? are you hitting full speed about 3/4 down end of straightaway or are you still gaining speed all the way ??? if its a shorter track.. ie straight less then 75 ft. then go down on pinion size to a 32 or 31... then take and advance your timing to 30 deg. this should help your temps and give you more get up and go. make sure you have your throttle settings on your radio set to 100% and run your brakes around 80%

what batteries are you running? a lot of these guys don't realize that batteries make a huge difference in how fast a car will go.... lipos are sometimes hard to understand.. for instance a shorty that say is a 4000 mah. battery with a 25c rating will feel fine but when you run it next to a 50c then you can really feel a difference.. run that battery next to a 90 or 100c and same again. but that is why those batteries cost more.

hope that helps a little.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:06 PM   #3004
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i hate to be that guy, but 100g is only 3.5oz. Also 1/2 of a soda can is 6 fluid ounce(volume), not weight.

sorry, continue thread.
yeah, didnt have a Grams to Ounces conversion calculator on me at the time.

I think reducing the weight on the rotating mass is the key for 17.5 and not so much the cars weight in general within reason of the 1500g-1600g weight.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:13 PM   #3005
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hey bill...

ya if your running big races then yes.... but like I was trying to say.. a lot of these guys don't do that.. they are new to the car and just need some help tuning it in...

if your racing the stock nats with the mid.. then I would drill out some plastic parts that mount to the chassis and use all the light parts.. your car will be as light as you want it to be.

also know how to tune your motors and have the best batteries you can get your hands on.. but for most of the people on here they wont need that.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:21 PM   #3006
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Hey guys my car is still a tad to pushy in the corners
I have the 3mm insert and i have the 1mm washer instead of the 2 mm washer on the shock tower.

is there any more i can do
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:10 PM   #3007
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Does anyone know what a stock b5m weights without battery?

I was depressed today I weighed mine. Came in at 1609 grams RTR. My battery is 212 grams so I can save 60 grams there. I'm running titanium screw kit and turn buckles. Along with aluminum top shaft. Carbon fiber battery strap and a few aluminum parts.

Far cry to 1500 grams.
I do not know what it weighs OTB but my car was 1505g at Cactus.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:10 PM   #3008
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I'm about ready to install the D arm mounts. Which way do the arrows point on the inserts? I also am guessing that on the C arm mounts the number that is installed on top of the insert is what setting the car will have.
On the d mounts the holes should be toward the inside. My eyes aren't good enough to notice those were arrows,
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:16 PM   #3009
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hey bill...

ya if your running big races then yes.... but like I was trying to say.. a lot of these guys don't do that.. they are new to the car and just need some help tuning it in...

if your racing the stock nats with the mid.. then I would drill out some plastic parts that mount to the chassis and use all the light parts.. your car will be as light as you want it to be.

also know how to tune your motors and have the best batteries you can get your hands on.. but for most of the people on here they wont need that.
Great advise!!
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:29 PM   #3010
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hey micah... how long are your straights? are you hitting full speed about 3/4 down end of straightaway or are you still gaining speed all the way ??? if its a shorter track.. ie straight less then 75 ft. then go down on pinion size to a 32 or 31... then take and advance your timing to 30 deg. this should help your temps and give you more get up and go. make sure you have your throttle settings on your radio set to 100% and run your brakes around 80%

what batteries are you running? a lot of these guys don't realize that batteries make a huge difference in how fast a car will go.... lipos are sometimes hard to understand.. for instance a shorty that say is a 4000 mah. battery with a 25c rating will feel fine but when you run it next to a 50c then you can really feel a difference.. run that battery next to a 90 or 100c and same again. but that is why those batteries cost more.

hope that helps a little.
Thanks for the input. I race at SDRC is San Diego. Very big indoor track with current layout having a long straight. Run smc 4600 shorties with high c rating. Already installed aluminum top shaft. Considering removing grease and seal from bearings.
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:49 AM   #3011
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If you want some ideas on how to get really crazy about taking weight out of the car (and even moving the weight down as low as possible), check out Jason Dias blog post about how he trimmed down his Kyosho RB6. For stock, weight is a big deal. And it's not just about total weight, it's also about lowering the center-of-gravity.
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:48 AM   #3012
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my B5m with SMC square = 1665g
my B5 with SMC shorty = 1490g (didn't have the transponder in it)

the M has a light receiver but everything else is the same electronic wise. Fwiw, the heavier car works better on our track so it's kind of a moot point
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:16 AM   #3013
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Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
yeah, didnt have a Grams to Ounces conversion calculator on me at the time.

I think reducing the weight on the rotating mass is the key for 17.5 and not so much the cars weight in general within reason of the 1500g-1600g weight.
In a power limited class, lighter is better in most every case, as all things are bound by gravitational rules when existing on a large mass like earth.

You can argue that reducing rotating mass is more important than static weight. However, reducing both is important. A heavier car takes more energy to push around and greater rotating mass takes more energy to spool up and down. Unless you are operating a gristmill, you want less rotating mass.

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my B5m with SMC square = 1665g
my B5 with SMC shorty = 1490g (didn't have the transponder in it)

the M has a light receiver but everything else is the same electronic wise. Fwiw, the heavier car works better on our track so it's kind of a moot point
Remember, there is a difference between arguing static weight and proper weight bias.

Can anyone give an example in modern car racing where there is a weight maximum rule?
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Last edited by celt; 04-01-2014 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:34 AM   #3014
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Originally Posted by celt View Post
In a power limited class, lighter is better in most every case, as all things are bound by gravitational rules when existing on a large mass like earth.

You can argue that reducing rotating mass is more important than static weight. However, reducing both is important. A heavier car takes more energy to push around and greater rotating mass takes more energy to spool up and down. Unless you are operating a gristmill, you want less rotating mass.



Remember, there is a difference between arguing static weight and proper weight bias.

Can anyone give an example in modern car racing where there is a weight maximum rule?
yeah I know. I just wanted to point out that a lighter car is not ALWAYS a better car. I know when I eventually build a 17.5 car, I really don't care much about the overall weight. I'm going to focus on drive train, because as you stated, rotating mass = everything.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:49 AM   #3015
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I have always disliked light cars outdoors. Even in 17.5. I dislike an overly responsive car that I cant put the power down with. I run my 17.5 cars around 1640 grams for outdoor racing. imo, I like it.
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