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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:56 PM   #2986
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Looks like the B4 ones. How are those supposed to work on the new axles or do you need different ones?
You have to have part 91408, clamping axles too. Most places are sold out of those, The had some at GS Hobbies last week.
Now Nitrohouse shows back order on the 91409's.
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:56 PM   #2987
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Alum upgrades to replace plastic parts will mostly likely add weight. IMO the best place to lose weight if you a weight crazy person is in the esc and servo. The tekin rs gen2 and a light weight low profile servo is about as light as you can get. Plus the 150gram battery would get you very low.
Yeah the low pro servo will save 21 grams and battery will save 57 grams. So that will put me at 1531. As for the aluminum part I weighed all then compared to stock plastic. It added 3.2 grams compared to stock.

I'm running the lrp flow now. I'm sure it's heavry than the tekin.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:06 PM   #2988
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i dont know why so many are obsessed about getting to minimum weight.. unless your racing the stock nationals you really don't need to worry about it... if you cant beat the guys when your car is 1550 grams your not going to beat them at 1500 grams..lol
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:20 PM   #2989
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i dont know why so many are obsessed about getting to minimum weight.. unless your racing the stock nationals you really don't need to worry about it... if you cant beat the guys when your car is 1550 grams your not going to beat them at 1500 grams..lol
To me it makes a huge difference with the way the car jumps. The lighter car is going to accelerate better and jump better then the heavier car, I was not a huge believer till I ran a light car and a heavy car back to back - it makes a difference. Also, I think there are a number of guys in this thread who very well may be in the main or close to it at the stock nats, so there is that too.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:21 PM   #2990
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i dont know why so many are obsessed about getting to minimum weight.. unless your racing the stock nationals you really don't need to worry about it... if you cant beat the guys when your car is 1550 grams your not going to beat them at 1500 grams..lol
I agree but when your car is at 1609 and your going against a car that's 1500 and driving talent is the same you don't stand a chance.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:24 PM   #2991
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I agree but when your car is at 1609 and your going against a car that's 1500 and driving talent is the same you don't stand a chance.
yep a 100 grams is what 6 oz? thats a 1/2 can of soda pop to put it in perspective.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:47 PM   #2992
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yep a 100 grams is what 6 oz? thats a 1/2 can of soda pop to put it in perspective.
Guess some people do what it takes to be competitive.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:49 PM   #2993
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To me it makes a huge difference with the way the car jumps. The lighter car is going to accelerate better and jump better then the heavier car, I was not a huge believer till I ran a light car and a heavy car back to back - it makes a difference. Also, I think there are a number of guys in this thread who very well may be in the main or close to it at the stock nats, so there is that too.
I agree. I also noticed that the lighter my car, the quicker it changed directions - quick in turns = happy stock racer!
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:50 PM   #2994
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I was depressed today I weighed mine. Came in at 1609 grams RTR. My battery is 212 grams so I can save 60 grams there. I'm running titanium screw kit and turn buckles. Along with aluminum top shaft. Carbon fiber battery strap and a few aluminum parts.
I'm sure there will be a graphite chassis at some point. That should lighten it up quite a bit!
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:51 PM   #2995
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i dont know why so many are obsessed about getting to minimum weight.. unless your racing the stock nationals you really don't need to worry about it... if you cant beat the guys when your car is 1550 grams your not going to beat them at 1500 grams..lol
Hey rickster I replied to your previous post any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:56 PM   #2996
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Anyone tried a RB6 Finnisher body on the B5m ?
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:12 PM   #2997
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hey skeeter. ok I found your post...

so on the setup here are a few suggestions...

on the front go to the inside hole on the arm, this will soften the front a bit and make weight transfer a little quicker, keep the same springs but go to a 35 wt. oil with the 1.6 pistions.... on the ballstud mount on front take the 2mm spacer out and replace with 1mm spacer.. then on the front hub.. take the 2mm spacer out from behind the hub and either use 1mm spacers on either side of hub centering it or just move the 2mm to the front of hub till you can get some spacers. this puts more weight over the front of the car and really increases steering feel.
move your battery forward with 1 of the thin spacers behind it.
in back leave mid hole on tower and move to inside hole on arm, bones level, and ballstud use 1mm spacer on mount but move to either B hole or C hole on hub, also move hub all the way forward. use a 3/1 block with 1 deg. neg camber front and back.
also run 0 toe in front arms level. use 1.7 pistons in back with 32.5 oil.

oh and switch to the 72 spur.. if your running stock gear to track size.. you want to reach full speed about 3/4 down straight. don't overgear. and then run 30 deg. timing.

this should help a lot!!! if you need more steering go to the white rear spring. or use the black swaybar.

I bet this will dial you in much much more.
let me know :-)
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:16 PM   #2998
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and on the weight of car.. yes 6 or 7 oz. is heavier.. getting the car to within a ounce is what I was referring to. my mid is 1 ounce heavier then my rear motor car. and both are dialed. and yes I know there are some good drivers on here.. I have been a factory driver for just over 15 yrs.. I helped develop cars for yokomo, mrc, ofna and associated.. and I respect a lot of guys on here and try and help anyone I can. I just don't want a new guy to feel he has to spend hundreds on titanium and super light stuff to feel like that's the only way to be competitive when learning to drive and tune will help wonders first.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:30 PM   #2999
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yep a 100 grams is what 6 oz? thats a 1/2 can of soda pop to put it in perspective.
i hate to be that guy, but 100g is only 3.5oz. Also 1/2 of a soda can is 6 fluid ounce(volume), not weight.

sorry, continue thread.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:50 PM   #3000
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i dont know why so many are obsessed about getting to minimum weight.. unless your racing the stock nationals you really don't need to worry about it... if you cant beat the guys when your car is 1550 grams your not going to beat them at 1500 grams..lol
I am racing the Stock Nationals, and weight is VERY important to me, for the reasons mentioned. I would think that as a "Factory" driver you would know the value of grams no mater what class you were racing. If you like to tune your car with weight or don't care if its a fat cow, that fine I don't care either. But if someone want to get to minimum weight and you cant help, then ignore the post and move on. I'm sure weight is not at all important that why sanctioning bodies in ALL forms of motorsports specify them!

I'll continue my conversation with splking1 about weight offline so as not to trouble you.
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