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Old 03-26-2014, 10:01 AM   #2746
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper View Post
Yea that's how I feel like drive the 2wd for sure...not so much the 4wd buggies.
myself i run stock,i have a heavy finger so i don't think the mm would fit me to well,but i do hope to try one
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:02 AM   #2747
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IMO, anything other than stock hardware is bling. UNLESS you're an A main caliber driver at the stock Nats. Racing against the top factory drivers.
Well there are some things like the puck system, aluminum top shaft, Lunsford front axles, and titanium screws are not all bling because they can help drop a great deal of weight which can help a lot in stock class. Oh and titanium turnbuckles but just my opinion though
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:03 AM   #2748
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Just for fun, I emailed the company offering the titanium screws about what grade they're made of. Here's the response: The titanium screws no grade!Is just plain titanium screws, 45% weight lighter than ordinary steel screws.

So, I'd say the price reflects the potential for a lower grade titanium. That being said, even a low grade titanium is likely going to be stronger than aluminum so you can still save some weight on a budget. You just might not get a 6Al4V grade ti...
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:08 AM   #2749
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Just for fun, I emailed the company offering the titanium screws about what grade they're made of. Here's the response: The titanium screws no grade!Is just plain titanium screws, 45% weight lighter than ordinary steel screws.

So, I'd say the price reflects the potential for a lower grade titanium. That being said, even a low grade titanium is likely going to be stronger than aluminum so you can still save some weight on a budget. You just might not get a 6Al4V grade ti...
I ask someone who knows all about the Titanium.

Said they use the same tools to cut allumium screws as that cheepo Ti .


A good indication its not even close to the same hardness or grade as the better Titanium.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:09 AM   #2750
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On another B5M note I too am confused on how people post about a car and do not own one.
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Last edited by TonyWest; 03-26-2014 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:15 AM   #2751
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Well there are some things like the puck system, aluminum top shaft, Lunsford front axles, and titanium screws are not all bling because they can help drop a great deal of weight which can help a lot in stock class. Oh and titanium turnbuckles but just my opinion though
I said hardware, meaning screws. Other items do have their advantages. Ti turnbuckles being one of them. Not so much for weight but strength. And I was referring more towards SS and not Ti.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:17 AM   #2752
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A good indication its not even close to the same hardness or grade as the better Titanium.
Could also mean they're using good tooling for cutting the aluminum screws too.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:19 AM   #2753
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What is there a weight advantage to stainless when compared to stock screws?
Personally don't use the stainless for strength or weight.

Just using it for a cleaner sharper appearance.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:29 AM   #2754
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IMO This is also USELESS BS. Seriously
plus 1

Just be friendly and offer help like I try to do.

Adds credibility to the thread instead of ruining the fun for everyone.
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:53 AM   #2755
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Hey Bob - What type of driver would prefer the MM? I had read a post suggesting that the MM cars (any of them) drive more like a 4wd car than a RM car. I run eBuggy and 4wd 1/10 Buggy too so I wonder if the MM would be a more consistent driving feel for me.
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I think or believe if you have a smooth throttle finger,like to roll it through the corners,like a onroad driver mm would be the preferred choice,
MM caters to the driver who knows how to throttle drive. You carry more corner speed at the expense of losing rear grip, so you have to be smoother coming out of the turns.

RM caters to the driver who loves to grip and rip. If you are a point and shoot guy, this is probably where you will like to be.

On an equal playing field, MM tends to feel more consistent once you get it dialed in. When it slides out, it's usually more gradual and you can get it back or just slide with it.

RM usually is more locked in, so when it starts to slide out, you are usually going to have to really work to get it back under control (picture all those old car chase movies where the driver is counter steering like crazy)

As far as the MM feeling like 4wd....I think the reason it gets that comparison is that it jumps flat like a 4wd and it rotates hard like a 4wd. If anything I would compare it to a 4wd that was running front 1 way.

Which ever route you go, it's my feeling that you have to pick one and commit to it. You'll be faster with a car that you are committed too and trust vs one that you aren't sold on but think is faster (because other people tell you).

Anyway, that's my observations and advice. At this point of my racing career, the competition has evolved so much and gotten so fast. I've realized now that I'm a lot better at tuning and setting up cars than I am driving.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:00 PM   #2756
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
MM caters to the driver who knows how to throttle drive. You carry more corner speed at the expense of losing rear grip, so you have to be smoother coming out of the turns.

RM caters to the driver who loves to grip and rip. If you are a point and shoot guy, this is probably where you will like to be.

On an equal playing field, MM tends to feel more consistent once you get it dialed in. When it slides out, it's usually more gradual and you can get it back or just slide with it.

RM usually is more locked in, so when it starts to slide out, you are usually going to have to really work to get it back under control (picture all those old car chase movies where the driver is counter steering like crazy)

As far as the MM feeling like 4wd....I think the reason it gets that comparison is that it jumps flat like a 4wd and it rotates hard like a 4wd. If anything I would compare it to a 4wd that was running front 1 way.

Which ever route you go, it's my feeling that you have to pick one and commit to it. You'll be faster with a car that you are committed too and trust vs one that you aren't sold on but think is faster (because other people tell you).

Anyway, that's my observations and advice. At this point of my racing career, the competition has evolved so much and gotten so fast. I've realized now that I'm a lot better at tuning and setting up cars than I am driving.
I agree that is jumps and rotates more like a 4x4, but....Coming out of a corner hard a 4x4 does not step out, because its 4wd. My only real issue when I tried MM, is that it would step out in a very unexpected way. For me, when it stepped out, it was violent. Mostly because the MM seemed VERY aggressive to me. There were a lot of things I liked about the MM configuration. But it did not instill confidence like the RM did. I will be moving to indoor racing again soon and plan to revisit MM again. It was too unpredictable for me outdoors. I guess I just like the rear of my car being more consistent.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:09 PM   #2757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
MM caters to the driver who knows how to throttle drive. You carry more corner speed at the expense of losing rear grip, so you have to be smoother coming out of the turns.

RM caters to the driver who loves to grip and rip. If you are a point and shoot guy, this is probably where you will like to be.

On an equal playing field, MM tends to feel more consistent once you get it dialed in. When it slides out, it's usually more gradual and you can get it back or just slide with it.

RM usually is more locked in, so when it starts to slide out, you are usually going to have to really work to get it back under control (picture all those old car chase movies where the driver is counter steering like crazy)

As far as the MM feeling like 4wd....I think the reason it gets that comparison is that it jumps flat like a 4wd and it rotates hard like a 4wd. If anything I would compare it to a 4wd that was running front 1 way.

Which ever route you go, it's my feeling that you have to pick one and commit to it. You'll be faster with a car that you are committed too and trust vs one that you aren't sold on but think is faster (because other people tell you).

Anyway, that's my observations and advice. At this point of my racing career, the competition has evolved so much and gotten so fast. I've realized now that I'm a lot better at tuning and setting up cars than I am driving.
+1
Im going thru this learning curve now and it creates frustration. We race on a med grip clay and the first qualifier has crazy traction and drops off round after round. Buy the time the mains start Im fighting "happy finger" and doubt starts creeping in that maybe I should have ran my RM or a different tire. Its not the car or the setup its me blowing the tires off as its squaring up allowing the rear end to step out. Any advice??
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:37 PM   #2758
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Some of you guys really crack me up--so much debate about RM vs MM--and then when someone like cherry posts a valid tip specific to the "M" he gets hammered. I bet if you took all the pages of RM vs MM debate you'd have only about 10 pages of items specific to the "M"--and prolly 5 of those pages cherry gets credit for---think about it for a moment......
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:43 PM   #2759
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Originally Posted by Oldgearhead View Post
+1
Im going thru this learning curve now and it creates frustration. We race on a med grip clay and the first qualifier has crazy traction and drops off round after round. Buy the time the mains start Im fighting "happy finger" and doubt starts creeping in that maybe I should have ran my RM or a different tire. Its not the car or the setup its me blowing the tires off as its squaring up allowing the rear end to step out. Any advice??
My problem explained perfectly. The other issue I have is that I have only been running rc for a little over a year. Both buggies I have owned have been mm (22 2.0 and B5M). Would starting with a "standard" buggy at first help or hinder me? Kinda wanted to start off mm to go through ALL of the learning curves at once, but I am not sure if that was the correct choice.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:50 PM   #2760
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I'm not trying to start any bashing or comparison deadlock but can someone who had the RB6 and B5m share their thoughts on the the 2 cars. I have the RB6 in MM configuration but that darn B5m just looks good. Any thoughts please.
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