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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:38 PM   #2716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigor View Post
If you're having issues getting on the power exiting corners, try all 4 of the following rear end changes together:

1.6 pistons
AE 30 weight oil
AE White Springs
Inner hole shock mounting position up top on the rear tower.

After that you can toy with the inner rear camber link ballstud height. I am currently happy with 0 washers, bringing the ballstud down.

These changes along with the flat front arms/tower made me much happier with the B5m so far!

Good luck

thanks a lot man, i appreciate it. i'll give it a shot
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:45 PM   #2717
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Never mind
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:11 PM   #2718
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This just in! AE releases new tuning kit:


Patient racers can hold out for the Factory Team version here:

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Old 03-25-2014, 05:05 PM   #2719
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If you are using the Sanwa shorty servo ?

Consider adding 1/2 oz on the back side of the servo for improved forward steering.

B5m has a much lighter front end then the Centro for instance.

The standard Xp servo , ect is heavier so no real need to add ballast otherwise.

Do what ever but if all else fails?

Just punch it ....
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:28 PM   #2720
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Someone please post some good links for stainless kits ..

Shopping for ...
http://www.rzhobby.com/stainless-ste...b5m-p-488.html

http://www.rzhobby.com/titanium-scre...b5m-p-489.html
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:57 PM   #2721
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disagree, statement is all wrong..


You should use the rear motor if your traction conditions are medium to less grip.

Higher the traction the more the mid will have the edge.

In other words some need both cars depending on traction conditions.
Statement is 100% correct.. Youll hardly ever see a mm car on a blown out loose track. I mean you may but it would be a handful without a doubt. Even on a med/high traction track a mm car isn't for everyone.
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:39 PM   #2722
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Damn I just purchased the Lunsford screw kit for $110
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:04 PM   #2723
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Damn I just purchased the Lunsford screw kit for $110
Geesh, that's some serious cash for screws. I don't understand the need to go titanium. Go get 50 16mm buttonhead aluminum screws for $10 and 50 16mm flat taper screws for $10 and trim to fit. over the last 9months I've only broken 1 screw and it was on my HEAVY Tekno sct410 Pro4 truck in a really hard crash. Not to mention they are even lighter than titanium.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:14 PM   #2724
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to those thinking the mid motor wont work on medium to low bite tracks.. your wrong.. I have both cars and just slight changes in setup and my mid motor rocks on looser tracks... don't get me wrong I have my rear motor also very dialed.. but the mid is a little better in the bumps and landing jumps.. also squats and just shoots forward where sometimes the rear will want to lift the front end more.

you do have to change setup slightly from a hard surface track but its no difference then having to tune in a rm car... you just have to tune it mm style.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:20 PM   #2725
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Just spent $9.90 shipped for the stainless set from im guessing china. Seems like a very good deal for a full set. Will post back on quality when they are in half a month! Lol
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:26 PM   #2726
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Originally Posted by rickster View Post
to those thinking the mid motor wont work on medium to low bite tracks.. your wrong.. I have both cars and just slight changes in setup and my mid motor rocks on looser tracks... don't get me wrong I have my rear motor also very dialed.. but the mid is a little better in the bumps and landing jumps.. also squats and just shoots forward where sometimes the rear will want to lift the front end more.

you do have to change setup slightly from a hard surface track but its no difference then having to tune in a rm car... you just have to tune it mm style.
What is your setup that is working on your low bite track?
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:48 PM   #2727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob martin View Post
Statement is 100% correct.. Youll hardly ever see a mm car on a blown out loose track. I mean you may but it would be a handful without a doubt. Even on a med/high traction track a mm car isn't for everyone.

If you could make just one car do all the statement would be valid...

but you can't so your both out of luck ..lol
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:02 PM   #2728
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Originally Posted by tropmonky View Post
Geesh, that's some serious cash for screws. I don't understand the need to go titanium. Go get 50 16mm buttonhead aluminum screws for $10 and 50 16mm flat taper screws for $10 and trim to fit. over the last 9months I've only broken 1 screw and it was on my HEAVY Tekno sct410 Pro4 truck in a really hard crash. Not to mention they are even lighter than titanium.
Yeah that's what I should of done. I took advise from a team guy. Should Cut down close to 20grams. Should of spent money else were. Live and learn man��

I'm going to weight the difference when they come in.
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:40 PM   #2729
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Yeah that's what I should of done. I took advise from a team guy. Should Cut down close to 20grams. Should of spent money else were. Live and learn man��

I'm going to weight the difference when they come in.
I also spend 110, your not alone.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:59 AM   #2730
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Statement is 100% correct.. Youll hardly ever see a mm car on a blown out loose track. I mean you may but it would be a handful without a doubt. Even on a med/high traction track a mm car isn't for everyone.
+1 I agree with Rob. I own a b5m and He has driven it on an ever changing track. From SUPER high grip to a feeling of dusty concrete. The mm car can reward a good driver or punish an average driver. The guys that can drive anything ( Rob ) make this car look good.
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