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Old 03-24-2014, 10:37 PM   #2671
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Thanks for all your help and advise

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Originally Posted by tropmonky View Post
Oh yeah, HUGE difference. 50-60 grams can add up to a spring and oil weight change for sure.

If you check the last 30pages back there is a ton of info about how people have dropped weight.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:12 PM   #2672
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What run times you getting out of that battery?
I put back about 1200mah after a 7min main with no real noticeable drop in punch, I've never run it to the cutoff but have ran some decently long practice sessions with it.
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:29 AM   #2673
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Originally Posted by Jake S View Post
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ts-74V-3200mAh

yeah 50g lighter then most shorties too
In fact they used to carry an even smaller one!
A 3000mAh, I have one and its almost like running without a battery!
Wonder why they stopped selling that one?
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:49 AM   #2674
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So I finally got my B5m yesterday. The build was great so far, good fitment of the parts, no missing or defective parts - obviously the guy at QC had'n fallen asleep when my kit was produced My rear arms needed a washer to remove some slop (~ 2mm) on the inner hinge pins, at least the slop was equal left and right.

One question so far:
I'm quite familiar with all these geometry adjustments like caster, camber, anti-squat, etc.
but what's the difference between running 25 kick-up with 5 caster block inserts versus 30 kick-up und 0 inserts? Both cases result in a total 30 caster but does it drive differently?
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:04 AM   #2675
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Originally Posted by triplesix View Post
So I finally got my B5m yesterday. The build was great so far, good fitment of the parts, no missing or defective parts - obviously the guy at QC had'n fallen asleep when my kit was produced My rear arms needed a washer to remove some slop (~ 2mm) on the inner hinge pins, at least the slop was equal left and right.
All of the kits, including mine, seem to have this large amount of play in the rear arms. I heard that AE are going to address it, most likely by including spacers for the inner hinge pin. This is only my assumption.
The front will also develop a lot of play in the front axle plastic bearing holders ( the ones listed for 2mm, 3mm, or 4mm trailing axle) as the plastic itself seems to move around in the steering spindle. I think in time we will see them address this as well, but just wanted to let you know this is normal so far in the kits.

ALSO! The rear ball stud, that threads into the rear wheel hubs, by going through the plastic part and then threading into the blue aluminum rectangle... make sure to clean this ballstud and the blue rectangle with like motor spray to remove any lite oils it may have and then thread using a thread adhesive like Loctite 242 (blue loctite thread adhesive compound) to prevent the ball stud from backing out during a run and your loss of the small blue rectangle.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:33 AM   #2676
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Originally Posted by Ruffy View Post
ALSO! The rear ball stud, that threads into the rear wheel hubs, by going through the plastic part and then threading into the blue aluminum rectangle... make sure to clean this ballstud and the blue rectangle with like motor spray to remove any lite oils it may have and then thread using a thread adhesive like Loctite 242 (blue loctite thread adhesive compound) to prevent the ball stud from backing out during a run and your loss of the small blue rectangle.
A 10mm ballstud with an aluminum locknut eliminates any chance of failure permanently.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:38 AM   #2677
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Originally Posted by celt View Post
A 10mm ballstud with an aluminum locknut eliminates any chance of failure permanently.
+1. I did this during the initial build. No issues with the ballstud coming out.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:50 AM   #2678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffy View Post
ALSO! The rear ball stud, that threads into the rear wheel hubs, by going through the plastic part and then threading into the blue aluminum rectangle... make sure to clean this ballstud and the blue rectangle with like motor spray to remove any lite oils it may have and then thread using a thread adhesive like Loctite 242 (blue loctite thread adhesive compound) to prevent the ball stud from backing out during a run and your loss of the small blue rectangle.
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A 10mm ballstud with an aluminum locknut eliminates any chance of failure permanently.

Either way, CHECK YO BALLS MAN!
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:52 AM   #2679
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What kind of temps are ppl seeing? In 17.5 my car seems to run a little hotter over my Kyosho trying to figure out if it's a weight issue or gearing
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:56 AM   #2680
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Our LHS hasn't had any ballstuds to buy yet, so yeah if you can find them buy them longer, add also a metal 1mm washer to the front side to protect the plastic part as well, then a locknut to the backside as mentioned...if you can find longer ballstuds to buy!

I've been looking for ballstuds and waiting for them from my LHS as some of my ballstuds (4 of them) have stripped out the hex on the top in less than 3 or 4 times removing them to make adjustments. They seem to be made of a "soft" alloy, or at least the secondary operation to make the hex may have left them soft in this area.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:00 AM   #2681
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Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
What kind of temps are ppl seeing? In 17.5 my car seems to run a little hotter over my Kyosho trying to figure out if it's a weight issue or gearing
could be weight, could be airflow, could just be you on the throttle more being faster?
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:02 AM   #2682
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Ruffy, are you using power tools? I've had no issues with any screw heads yet *knock on wood*. Though I haven't fired up the power screwdriver yet.. fingers are worn out with these threads!
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:03 AM   #2683
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Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
What kind of temps are ppl seeing? In 17.5 my car seems to run a little hotter over my Kyosho trying to figure out if it's a weight issue or gearing
I don't think the Kyosho is considered light either. I had an RB6 - it wasn't any lighter than the B5M.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:13 AM   #2684
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Originally Posted by celt View Post
I don't think the Kyosho is considered light either. I had an RB6 - it wasn't any lighter than the B5M.
That's my issue are track kind of tighter, I'm geared 72/32 and it's getting hot I'm not sure if it's the motor. Yea I tend to have a heavy trigger finger in stock I just know in mm I'm able to really get on it sooner
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:38 AM   #2685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffy View Post
Our LHS hasn't had any ballstuds to buy yet, so yeah if you can find them buy them longer, add also a metal 1mm washer to the front side to protect the plastic part as well, then a locknut to the backside as mentioned...if you can find longer ballstuds to buy!

I've been looking for ballstuds and waiting for them from my LHS as some of my ballstuds (4 of them) have stripped out the hex on the top in less than 3 or 4 times removing them to make adjustments. They seem to be made of a "soft" alloy, or at least the secondary operation to make the hex may have left them soft in this area.
you can use the TLR ones also.....
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