R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-09-2017, 12:23 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Like Tree9Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-22-2014, 06:37 AM   #2536
Tech Regular
 
Rybeau40's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 289
Default

My biggest issue right now, and why I have yet to purchase this one, is that I don't see many guys running them at the majority of club tracks. Obviously, if your club track is super grip or high bite than they are great, but I would be concerned with the fact that most tracks just aren't high bite indoor or outdoor.

Anyone successfully using the M version on lesser bite, loamy type tracks?
__________________
Kyosho Lazer ZX-6R 10.1 Orion pro, Spektrum 6040
Team Associated B5M, Hitec servo Mod class, 10.0 Orion
Futaba 4PLS
Support your LHS.
Sponsored by my wife who gives me no grief
Rybeau40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 07:18 AM   #2537
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,945
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rybeau40 View Post
My biggest issue right now, and why I have yet to purchase this one, is that I don't see many guys running them at the majority of club tracks. Obviously, if your club track is super grip or high bite than they are great, but I would be concerned with the fact that most tracks just aren't high bite indoor or outdoor.

Anyone successfully using the M version on lesser bite, loamy type tracks?
listen.... "If" your torn or concerned, then the RM is probably for you. We have a guy trying to get one to work out doors. Not loamy, but not high bite. He is faster and more consistent with the RM. He has both btw. Asking people if they are winning with it, its kinda a useless question. I could tell you I tq and win every week, but it means nothing. Who an I racing against? Novice? Low local talent pool. If you are ever in doubt, just get a RM. Easier to drive a car with too much rear traction, than one with too little
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 09:18 AM   #2538
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,329
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

She's a lil fatty..... this is with a saddle pack and probably 10 or so extra grams of wire

__________________
Tekno|JConcepts|ProTek|Amain|VRP|BOOMrc
Bob Barry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 09:39 AM   #2539
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillPear View Post
I cant believe that you don't realize that Cherry knows everything their is to know, and a bit more than that as well!

I drive both rides , just doing my best to be helpful , friendly and on topic.
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 09:43 AM   #2540
Tech Master
 
Cridd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 1,944
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
listen.... "If" your torn or concerned, then the RM is probably for you. We have a guy trying to get one to work out doors. Not loamy, but not high bite. He is faster and more consistent with the RM. He has both btw. Asking people if they are winning with it, its kinda a useless question. I could tell you I tq and win every week, but it means nothing. Who an I racing against? Novice? Low local talent pool. If you are ever in doubt, just get a RM. Easier to drive a car with too much rear traction, than one with too little
+1 on winning, last night our good guys were winning with B4.2, RB6's, 90% driver and set up.

Parts are going to be hard to find, I got extra arms, towers before I build RM and a few small things, surprised we have not seen hop up parts come to market faster from JC and others. All I have seen are battery straps. Car is crazy durable though have not broken one thing yet so my extra parts are still in box.

My take on C4 compared to BMM, not as solid, little more skittish, felt like it was riding on top of the dirt for me while the B5MM is down in the dirt and I can push harder. My son inherited C4.2 last night and loves it. Still 90% driver.

I like the MM car, being in sport since last year and going from b4.1 RTR to B4.2, C4.2 and now B5MM maybe don't have to build a car for awhile , ran car last night was very predicable, didn't crash a lot just need to push harder and run cleaner lines. I like the 2mm trailing with standard Ackerman tons of steering, fits my driving. I like flat arms for quick ride height tuning but for time being may play with shocks. I did stock set up but used tapered since I had them, but may try 1.6 in rear. Really want to lighten it up a little for stock so that is my mission for now along with new JC body.
__________________
Chris
B6D / T5M / SC5M
Cridd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 09:49 AM   #2541
Tech Master
 
Cridd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 1,944
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
She's a lil fatty..... this is with a saddle pack and probably 10 or so extra grams of wire

I'm 1590 with shorty, got FT battery strap and new top shaft, hope to be 1575.
__________________
Chris
B6D / T5M / SC5M
Cridd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 09:56 AM   #2542
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,945
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cridd View Post
+1 on winning, last night our good guys were winning with B4.2, RB6's, 90% driver and set up.

Parts are going to be hard to find, I got extra arms, towers before I build RM and a few small things, surprised we have not seen hop up parts come to market faster from JC and others. All I have seen are battery straps. Car is crazy durable though have not broken one thing yet so my extra parts are still in box.

My take on C4 compared to BMM, not as solid, little more skittish, felt like it was riding on top of the dirt for me while the B5MM is down in the dirt and I can push harder. My son inherited C4.2 last night and loves it. Still 90% driver.

I like the MM car, being in sport since last year and going from b4.1 RTR to B4.2, C4.2 and now B5MM maybe don't have to build a car for awhile , ran car last night was very predicable, didn't crash a lot just need to push harder and run cleaner lines. I like the 2mm trailing with standard Ackerman tons of steering, fits my driving. I like flat arms for quick ride height tuning but for time being may play with shocks. I did stock set up but used tapered since I had them, but may try 1.6 in rear. Really want to lighten it up a little for stock so that is my mission for now along with new JC body.

The rm is stupid light and with pucks, guys will probably need to add weight. I am sure the MM can be made very light. people forget that the esc weight. Some esc's are 40 grams heavier. Those all alum v3.1 and the orions and bricks. The tekin gen2 is 40 grams lighter than the orion, and the viper is about 20 grams lighter. Some of the old sxx and smaller lrps, mught be really light too. 12awg wire is heavier than the TQ 13 awg wire. Add in some TI screws and turnbuckles and you "should" be able to get the car into the mid 1500's. Imo, if you get below 1550, it should be fine. Also, the 150 gram 3300 mah shorties might work for guys doing 5 minutes races. Plus, all of the alum bling, only adds more weight. I would only put it where you need it for durability.
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 10:02 AM   #2543
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default My B5m build

Purchased already

Alloy rear arm mounts
Alloy steering
Carbon battery strap
Alloy shock standoffs
Lunsford Ti rods
JConcepts serrated wheel nuts
Alloy blue lock nuts for shock stand offs.
Ae ceramic diff balls
Lunsford Ti front steering axles
Low friction X rings for shocks

Still have not purchase a kit yet, just got the money yesterday.
So I'm on stand by till we get more kits.
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 10:10 AM   #2544
Tech Master
 
Tradin Paint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,301
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Purchased already

Alloy rear arm mounts
Alloy steering
Carbon battery strap
Alloy shock standoffs
Lunsford Ti rods
JConcepts serrated wheel nuts
Alloy blue lock nuts for shock stand offs.
Ae ceramic diff balls
Lunsford Ti front steering axles
Low friction X rings for shocks

I gave not purchase a out yet, just got the money yesterday.
So I oxn stand by till we get more kits.
What is the part number for the alloy steering and where did you get it
__________________
Happy with: Team Associated, Team Tekin, Airtronics, Avid, JConcepts, Fantom motors and Aero Model batteries.
Proud Supporter of Warehouse 3 RC Hobby Shop, that just happens to have an indoor track
"Because Size Does Matter"
Ryan H.
Tradin Paint is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 10:12 AM   #2545
Tech Master
 
Cridd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 1,944
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Did the Ti screws and no alum hop ups for weight. LRP flow is a little hefty. Might try that Protech super light battery just to see if weight helps times in this car since that would get it down fast and easy test. Puck system will be cool for stock. My RM was at 1525, at races came in at 1498 on their scale, it is stupid light.
__________________
Chris
B6D / T5M / SC5M
Cridd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 10:19 AM   #2546
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tradin Paint View Post
What is the part number for the alloy steering and where did you get it
Not sure what the part # is , we got a whole bunch in at Trcr last Wednesday .
Still have plenty.
__________________
Any driver can copy a great set up, a Champion however will steal it .
If Jesus returned as a Rc car he be a Rc10 B5M
George W. Cherry
Wild Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 10:56 AM   #2547
Tech Apprentice
 
daravelli's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 95
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by billjacobs View Post
I built a b5m over the weekend (took about 5 hours total) and these are my suggestions:

1) use super fine synthetic steel wool pads (about $5) to polish the ball ends, shock shafts, and the front inner hinge pins (simply put the item into a dremel, spin it up and then polish with the pad for a few seconds)- this is especially true for the front inner hinge pins because the front kick up block is very tight.

2) in the gearbox, use 1 .1x10mm shim to take slop out of the diff, and 1 .1x5mm shim to take slop out of the top shaft (between the top shaft gear and the aluminum spacer)

3) use 3 .3x4mm shims to remove play from the rear arms. in my kit, the rear left arm had twice the play of the right, so I put 1 shim at the back of the left arm, and then 1 shim in front of both arms. this removed all play.

4) the turnbuckles are way too long. they used the same ones as the b4, but since the ball cups are longer, you go past the threaded area by quite a bit. I had some 43mm turnbuckles laying around and they worked perfectly. don't forget to put chapstick on the threads.

5) the diff went together fine, but the stock diff rings are not flat. I had to sand mine to get them flat.

6) if you are using a novak ballistic motor, the motor shaft hits the gear cover. I simply used a reamer to open a hole where the shaft made an indent in the cover.

7) take your time with the gear box screws, they are tight.

8) the stock wheel nuts are junk. when you go to take them off, 2 of the nylon inserts got jammed in the threads. i just used regular 4mm serrated nuts

9) the only part my kit was missing was one of the 3 hole plastic rear hub inserts (go opposite the blue aluminum one.) Aside from that, the 8 year old putting the box together did well.

Other than those issues, the build went fine. It really is a nice car, and I especially like the reasonable prices. Even though many will get the hopups as they are released, you really don't need them.

Good job team associated.
Appreciate the tips. Just a small correction on #2 though. You'll need 6mm shims for that top shaft gear, not 5mm.
__________________
Hot Bodies Ve8 - Sold
Traxxas E-Revo - Sold
1/16 Traxxas E-Revo VXL - MMP Castle 5700kv - Sold
OFNA Ultra GTP-2E - Sold
Team Associated B5m
daravelli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 11:46 AM   #2548
Tech Addict
 
BillPear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: The O.C. 92646
Posts: 748
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to BillPear
Default

Damn, what are you guys feeding those things? I'm 1528 as it came off the track last night, with the Orion R10! By the time the JC Stock Nationals start at OC_RC next month I expect to be under ROAR minimum, with a milled motor plate, aluminum top shaft, and a puck kit.



BillPear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 12:17 PM   #2549
Tech Addict
 
caprezmikeb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: queen creek az
Posts: 515
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Any body know where I can pick up 91389 arm mount inserts (d)
__________________
Mike Burdeshaw
"O YEA?"
AGAMA A8T/MAXY CINCO BT/AGAMA EVO A8/MAXY CINCO BT
Thanks for all the help from Andy Watts and Red Rock Hobbies
caprezmikeb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2014, 12:43 PM   #2550
Tech Master
 
brian cox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: sioux falls
Posts: 1,666
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
I drive both rides , just doing my best to be helpful , friendly and on topic.
I for one appreciate the info you provide, as I know who and where you race, there is alot of talent in th NW!
__________________
Team Orion---Bradley Fine Line Design---AKA
brian cox is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:24 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net