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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:53 PM   #2266
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is where i am at right now with my b5m. car was really easy to drive a medium traction dirt surface. when the track is dry it becomes dusty and traction levels are drastically decreased, in these conditions i would run hubs forward to gain rear grip, at a minor loss of steering.

car was so easy to drive everyone watching said it just looked SLOW on my TQ run for the night (ahead of a few b5r, xfactory cubed, b4.2s and some losi 22 2.0s) with this setup it didnt feel like it needed to driven hard to be fast.

on another note, using the b4.2 jconcepts wing the holes are drilled 5mm-6mm back from the "kit" marks. played with it as far forward as the b4.2 kit mark, and as far back as 12mm from them, ended up with the best feel at 5mm-6mm range.

using a shorty in the 4mm from back position it just felt like the car didnt have enough rear grip on medium bite, car seemed to swing hard on mid-exit. using a shorty i think i would go back to the 4mm trail setting to smooth it out some, and add a 1mm spacer on the rear brace.
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:03 PM   #2267
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They don't do online sales as far as I know. Hobby express cincinnati ohio has the kits in stock. Call them. 513 248 4666. I was just in there. I told the about people wanting kits online. They said they are more than happy to ship the kits anywhere. Just a helpful hint to those looking. 4 were in stock and a slew of rear kits as well
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:20 PM   #2268
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I don't understand why people are complaining about the rear of the car hooking or not rotating enough... simple fix.. tune your car in...

play with moving your rear camber locations, your wheelbase, your gearing, springs or shock locations and tires...

I am not at your track but try and see what one change at a time does to the handling of your car. then do another change and another until you are happy with how you want it to handle.
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:24 PM   #2269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster View Post
I don't understand why people are complaining about the rear of the car hooking or not rotating enough... simple fix.. tune your car in...
i knew what i would do to change it, i posted that, i also said it did it with a shorty, but when i went to a saddle pack and the same setup it did not...which is the battery posted in the sheet.
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:08 PM   #2270
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Right on. Would you care to elaborate on this a little? Was your 2.0 mid motor? What key things do you like better about the b5m compared to the 2.0?
The 2.0 was mid motor and had the rocket rc brass upgrades and it was a smooth car but for me I couldn't push it as hard as the b5m. The ae car with very little tuning was faster for me and seams to hold more corner speed and be more forgiving.
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Old 03-16-2014, 11:09 PM   #2271
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hey jake.. no worries .. its hard to help sometimes as you can only convey so much over a few lines here.. especially without seeing the car.

I was at the track the other day and there was a guy who was saying how much he didn't like how the car handled.. I asked if I could take a look.. he had all his shocks different lengths as when he threaded the ends on he didn't make anything equal. not to mention several other things like one front steering block spacer was behind the block the other infront... I spent 10 minutes on his car and he couldn't believe it was the same car after.

ya the weight bias totally changes with a square or saddle over the shorty.. nomatter where you place the shorty you loose or gain something somewhere as compared to the larger batt... and you only gain a ounce with the bigger batt.
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:37 AM   #2272
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who (company) has a good assortment of metric shims? to do some of these changes I need a stock up on all sorts of shims - i'm a slight stickler on this. Tried the 3mm trailing and ran out of 1mm shims so i had to wing it with the plastic black .80mm hub spacers. ran out of those too.
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:46 AM   #2273
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At the Cactus Classic, were all the B5m running the square battery?
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:53 AM   #2274
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Anyone tried the flat arms yet?
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:58 AM   #2275
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re: hooking can be caused by a few things. I think most of it in my case is the difference between these pizza cutter panther front slicks and the relatively flat rear panthers. Really want something flatter up front. Also I have been trying to lock in my rear end more since the car drives like a lazy cadillac which requires me to back peddle on the driving a lot compared to my RMs as i was getting the hooking while trying to drive the car through the corner more. For now though, I've mostly eliminated this with roll center changes. also switched to hub BBup and went to short WB. Part of my other problem is the weight transfer to the front end is not exactly fluid. I'm using a shorty and have moved from the back towards the front but the big foam pad is still up front at the moment. I haven't worked on any front shock adjustments outside of moving the bottom to the inside hole, tried out the 3mm trailing which with the unfortunate lack of proper spacers didn't give me a clear concise answer i was looking for. Just too inconsistent. - no fault of the car, just not enough shims on my end!

really just tinkering around right now. car is about bulletproof *KNOCK ON WOOD* Only issues are trying to find the sweet spot on loctite so things stay but don't get stuck in (yes its blue, even an ae bottle!) , and the long long screws. power screwdriver coming this weekend!
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:02 AM   #2276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTSSTANG View Post
At the Cactus Classic, were all the B5m running the square battery?
My buddy who TQ'd 17.5 buggy with his 5M at the Cactus was running a shorty in his...
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:03 AM   #2277
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Anyone tried the flat arms yet?
I'm waiting to get my hands on a pair & the tower, hopefully today or tomorrow. Supposedly makes the steering more consistent, less edgy, and less likely for the rear end to hook.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:07 AM   #2278
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isn't the difference between arms/tower setup just a CG change?
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:09 AM   #2279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigor View Post
I'm told almost every serious racer at OCRC already runs them. I'm waiting to get my hands on a pair & the tower, hopefully today or tomorrow. Supposedly makes the steering more consistent, less edgy, and less likely for the rear end to hook.
A local has both cars. He feels the Rm needs more steering (gullwing) and the MM needs less aggressive smoother steering (flat arms). He plans to swap them between the 2 cars, but blew a servo and didnt get around ot it last weekend.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:29 AM   #2280
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Instead of using gull wings in search of more steering ?

Instead try these instead

Removing shims under rear chassis camber stud
Moving rear hub towards the back
Stiffer rear spring
3 degree a front axle trail
Thicker rear shock oil
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