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Old 03-15-2014, 12:10 AM   #2206
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So I just ran stock class on a large indoor track and the mid motor did great. After 5min heats the motor was at 115* degrees. I did change to 1mm spacer in rear inner ball stud and to 3mm trailing insert, but need to change tires. Was so much smoother than my b4.2 and deffinently like the mid motor feel.
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:46 AM   #2207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tradin Paint View Post
Has anyone tried the aluminum shock mounts. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but there is a ton of slop between the shock mount and the hole in the shock cap
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
Yes, with the same results. Their either has to be an insert for use with the plastic shock caps or they must only be for use with the aluminum shock caps.
If you had read your manual, you'd have known you need a matching bushing.
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:49 AM   #2208
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Me too. Just got finished running 17.5 and took third in the amain. Only problem I had all night was the car felt like it had a lack if punch. Handled amazing and felt extremely planted. Coming from a b4.2 with all the goodies for 17.5 I was expecting it but I was not prepared for how drastic it was. After the second heat I swapped in my pucks system from my 4.2 and holy cow it came back to life. Really is a great car to drive. This car turns in so fast but keeps its composure. Loving it!!!

Btw to answer someone else's question, I was running a chassis protector but through out the night having to pull the gear box I ripped it off and ran it without. I don't think I'll be putting another one back on. To much of a PITA when you have to work on it. I could see it on the rear motor where the bottom is near screwless but on this car meh.

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Old 03-15-2014, 01:06 AM   #2209
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If you had read your manual, you'd have known you need a matching bushing.
Thank you for your insight. I did read my manual during assembly and the assembly instructions did not mention anything regarding the FT aluminum bushings let alone the bushing inserts.
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Old 03-15-2014, 02:07 AM   #2210
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Anybody know of these in stock anywhere still please? B5m kits
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:18 AM   #2211
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Me too. Just got finished running 17.5 and took third in the amain. Only problem I had all night was the car felt like it had a lack if punch. Handled amazing and felt extremely planted. Coming from a b4.2 with all the goodies for 17.5 I was expecting it but I was not prepared for how drastic it was. After the second heat I swapped in my pucks system from my 4.2 and holy cow it came back to life. Really is a great car to drive. This car turns in so fast but keeps its composure. Loving it!!!

Btw to answer someone else's question, I was running a chassis protector but through out the night having to pull the gear box I ripped it off and ran it without. I don't think I'll be putting another one back on. To much of a PITA when you have to work on it. I could see it on the rear motor where the bottom is near screwless
Yeah I felt mine had enough power but once the puck system comes out Im definitely going to give that a go and I plan to get the aluminum top shaft.
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:01 AM   #2212
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Me too. Just got finished running 17.5 and took third in the amain. Only problem I had all night was the car felt like it had a lack if punch. Handled amazing and felt extremely planted. Coming from a b4.2 with all the goodies for 17.5 I was expecting it but I was not prepared for how drastic it was. After the second heat I swapped in my pucks system from my 4.2 and holy cow it came back to life. Really is a great car to drive. This car turns in so fast but keeps its composure. Loving it!!!

Btw to answer someone else's question, I was running a chassis protector but through out the night having to pull the gear box I ripped it off and ran it without. I don't think I'll be putting another one back on. To much of a PITA when you have to work on it. I could see it on the rear motor where the bottom is near screwless but on this car meh.

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What's ur gearing a timing?
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:11 AM   #2213
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imo, if your going to run 17.5mm. The picks and light weight tranny part might be good for motor cooling, but what about all the weight lost on the rear wheels for outdoor racing? I am beginning to think outdoor racing is vastly in the minority. This is probably why mm is on the rise. We have a local trying to tune the B5M for outdoors, hopefully if goes well.
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:33 AM   #2214
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How's the Ae team's B5m doing @ Cactus this morning ?
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:38 AM   #2215
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How's the Ae team's B5m doing @ Cactus this morning ?
2wd is just starting Cherry, 17.5 stock is getting underway.
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:30 PM   #2216
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So for anyone that had been following along, I had been having an issue where my B5m was pretty edgy to drive, and the rear wanted to hook around on hairpins / 180's.

In the 3 previous days I had driven the car, I made some baby steps in making it more forgiving and consistent, but it still needed far more. Yesterday while at OCRC, I did manage to get the car to a decent point.

From my own tweaking / tuning, as well as speaking to and overhearing things all around OCRC, the back needs to softened up spring/oil wise, and a higher roll center by lengthening and/or lowering the rear camber links, and even laying the rear shocks down more (outside hole on lower rear arm). This finally got the car much more predictable out of sharp corner exits.

Also, the guys out at Cactus running the flat B5 arms & tower, aren't running it only there cause of the super high grip. The folks doing well with the car so far out here, are all running flat arms/tower, as they report it makes the steering more consistent, less edgy, and removes the rear hooking action I was seeing. Unfortunately they had the tower in stock but not the arms, so I'm not able to provide first hand feel on that.

I even heard that AE might have made a "mistake" and the B5m really should have come with the flat arms, and the rear motor B5 the gullwings. Coincidence that the B5 rear came with flat arms and everyone said it pushed and needed more steering, and the B5m is a bit edgy and needs the steering reduced a bit ? Maybe. Maybe not. With the kit prices being so low, it's an easy way to quickly make another $10 from every racer that wants to dial in their car.

Also over hearing that even the top AE drivers hardly had any time with the car previous to launch. I know for a fact most of the team was at OCRC 2 weeks trying to dial them in, as I was there. Again, I cannot speak with hard fact statements, just what I'm hearing through the "grapevine" down here in SoCal. Might explain why the kit setups didn't seem dialed.
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:43 PM   #2217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xTotalghost View Post
What's ur gearing a timing?
Tried everything yesterday:

72/33,32,31,30,28 @ 40,30 & 20 deg
69/33,32,31,30,28 @ 40,30 & 20 deg

All of these were just not working well. Either I was getting pulled on the straight and out of corners, or the motor was getting up to 170 deg. No combination felt snappy like before. Back in the b4.2 the schuurspeed felt great at (69/31 40 deg) and never went over 120 deg. You could definitely tell the motor was working harder to move the car around. Data logs off my tekin rsx also showed that the rpm rise in the motor was not nearly as fast and that the motor was getting hotter quicker. Another thing was that the motor was not reaching it's peak rpm very often. Once I put the pucks in I went back to what was the sweet spot before at 69/31 and 35 degrees of timing and it was much better. After a 7 min main and 5 min of open track time consecutively the motor came off at 145. Datalogs showed that the rpm curves were closer to what they were in my b4.2 and that the motor was actually reaching its peak rpm on the track more frequently.

Moral of my long winded story: if your going to run stock I'd recommend adapting a pucks system to the car or wait for the dedicated one to come out. Otherwise it's probably best to run mod with the stock drivetrain (which we all suspected anyways). Again, just my .02
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Old 03-15-2014, 12:48 PM   #2218
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Originally Posted by mugenhatchie View Post
Tried everything yesterday:

72/33,32,31,30,28 @ 40,30 & 20 deg
69/33,32,31,30,28 @ 40,30 & 20 deg

All of these were just not working well. Either I was getting pulled on the straight and out of corners, or the motor was getting up to 170 deg. No combination felt snappy like before. Back in the b4.2 the schuurspeed felt great at (69/31 40 deg) and never went over 120 deg. You could definitely tell the motor was working harder to move the car around. Data logs off my tekin rsx also showed that the rpm rise in the motor was not nearly as fast and that the motor was getting hotter quicker. Another thing was that the motor was not reaching it's peak rpm very often. Once I put the pucks in I went back to what was the sweet spot before at 69/31 and 35 degrees of timing and it was much better. After a 7 min main and 5 min of open track time consecutively the motor came off at 145. Datalogs showed that the rpm curves were closer to what they were in my b4.2 and that the motor was actually reaching its peak rpm on the track more frequently.

Moral of my long winded story: if your going to run stock I'd recommend adapting a pucks system to the car or wait for the dedicated one to come out. Otherwise it's probably best to run mod with the stock drivetrain (which we all suspected anyways). Again, just my .02
Well I have 69/35 in my car right now at 0 degree timing I still have I adjust the timing
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Old 03-15-2014, 03:34 PM   #2219
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Originally Posted by rigor View Post
So for anyone that had been following along, I had been having an issue where my B5m was pretty edgy to drive, and the rear wanted to hook around on hairpins / 180's.

In the 3 previous days I had driven the car, I made some baby steps in making it more forgiving and consistent, but it still needed far more. Yesterday while at OCRC, I did manage to get the car to a decent point.

From my own tweaking / tuning, as well as speaking to and overhearing things all around OCRC, the back needs to softened up spring/oil wise, and a higher roll center by lengthening and/or lowering the rear camber links, and even laying the rear shocks down more (outside hole on lower rear arm). This finally got the car much more predictable out of sharp corner exits.

Also, the guys out at Cactus running the flat B5 arms & tower, aren't running it only there cause of the super high grip. The folks doing well with the car so far out here, are all running flat arms/tower, as they report it makes the steering more consistent, less edgy, and removes the rear hooking action I was seeing. Unfortunately they had the tower in stock but not the arms, so I'm not able to provide first hand feel on that.

I even heard that AE might have made a "mistake" and the B5m really should have come with the flat arms, and the rear motor B5 the gullwings. Coincidence that the B5 rear came with flat arms and everyone said it pushed and needed more steering, and the B5m is a bit edgy and needs the steering reduced a bit ? Maybe. Maybe not. With the kit prices being so low, it's an easy way to quickly make another $10 from every racer that wants to dial in their car.

Also over hearing that even the top AE drivers hardly had any time with the car previous to launch. I know for a fact most of the team was at OCRC 2 weeks trying to dial them in, as I was there. Again, I cannot speak with hard fact statements, just what I'm hearing through the "grapevine" down here in SoCal. Might explain why the kit setups didn't seem dialed.
I don't think AE made a mistake with gullwing arms at all. They simply gave another tuning option. Putting flat arms on one car and gullwing on the other makes sure people get to try it out. Some people love the edgy feel and extra turning. Some tracks it may work better for most people.

I have drove a one buddies car and couldn't believe how it had no steering. Then another buddies that had so much steering and was so twitchy I couldn't drive consistent with it. They both loved there set ups and it worked well for them. Everyone likes a certain feel or set up that's just perfect for them even though it might be un-drivable to others. That's why the newer cars get the more adjustments they add to them.
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Old 03-15-2014, 04:45 PM   #2220
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Rigor is the only one that is having this problem....something about hooking??? Talked to some ae drivers and they all found it funny. Mines dialed (clay, indoors) thanks to the help of those drivers. I think it's lack of knowledge when tuning or driving.

Take the ballstud washers out on the rear brace and lay down the shocks in the back. Run 2x1.6 machined pistons all the way around and 32.5wt in the front and 30wt in the back. 69 tooth spur and run 3mm trailing axle with 1mm on the Ackerman. Also mid motor buggies like their diffs a little tight.
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