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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 05-17-2015, 01:46 PM
  #20821  
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The one welcome addition on the shocks will be the new shafts, they are getting rid of the e-clips, the pistons will now be screwed to the shafts. Tunnerman one of AE's offroad engineers was at our track this past weekend and had some with him
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:07 PM
  #20822  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Thank you for the compliment. The funny thing about the FlySky stuff. I have been running a Futaba 3PM-X for about 6 years. I bought the FlySky for a beach basher car of mine and started to like it. The menus kind of suck so I didn't think too much of it at first for use other than a toy car. After a while I started getting used to it and I have found over time that I liked it better than my Futaba radio so I started plopping it in my race buggies. I held on to the Futaba for a few months in case I wanted to roll back, but just recently sold it. I know it isn't the radio of choice for guys who race at a higher level, but for me (for now) I actually like it. It is light, responsive enough, and feels right in my hands.

To the guy picking at me for using heat shrink on my installs, kiss my grits I like the clean look and have never had a problem with it.
I used to use the fly sky stuff. I know a few people that were using them. Even the slow guys feel like the airtronics stuff is more connected. to each their own, I had it and it was ok. but receivers died like crazy and it would brown out for me. but if you like it, cool
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:51 PM
  #20823  
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Originally Posted by steelers82
Im having some setup issues, whenever i get on the brakes my car wants to dart quickley to the left instead of stopping straight, I thought it was because my brakes were too high but even if I turn them down same result? is this an issue with suspension or droop?
A number of different things can cause this:

1. One shock losing pressure faster than the other.
2. One bearing gritty and slowing down faster than the other.
3. Rear tires have uneven tread causing one to grip faster than the other
4. If you have a ball diff one side could have less lubrication causing slippage unevenly on one side. Only noticeable on short sharp stops.

In my experience I've always experienced some level of this but the reality is that in practice I've never braked that short and sharp (to require a direct stop) in an actual race for it to be a a noticeable distraction.

All the best
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:02 PM
  #20824  
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hey guys
I'm already running a B5M, and really like it, so I was thinking of buying another one.
My question is though, do I go Factory Lite or not??
likely the hottest motor I'll be running is 10.5

thoughts?
thanks !
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:38 PM
  #20825  
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Originally Posted by stulec52
hey guys
I'm already running a B5M, and really like it, so I was thinking of buying another one.
My question is though, do I go Factory Lite or not??
likely the hottest motor I'll be running is 10.5

thoughts?
thanks !
Are you looking to run another 2wd class or refreshing the kit you have? I suppose light would make sense if you were going to run it stock then the kit you have now mod.
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:15 AM
  #20826  
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Originally Posted by steelers82
Im having some setup issues, whenever i get on the brakes my car wants to dart quickley to the left instead of stopping straight, I thought it was because my brakes were too high but even if I turn them down same result? is this an issue with suspension or droop?
This could just be the plain old problem of uneven surface.. have you done this on some sort of flat asphalt or concrete?
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:18 AM
  #20827  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Are you looking to run another 2wd class or refreshing the kit you have? I suppose light would make sense if you were going to run it stock then the kit you have now mod.
yeah, just re-freshing mine, actually most likely handing it down to my son.
But the Factory Lite car is only worth using if running 17.5 or slower then?
Like I said, I'll be going up to 10.5 not full mod though.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:02 AM
  #20828  
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Originally Posted by stulec52
yeah, just re-freshing mine, actually most likely handing it down to my son.
But the Factory Lite car is only worth using if running 17.5 or slower then?
Like I said, I'll be going up to 10.5 not full mod though.
The lite kit will be just fine for any motor. As long as you know how to set it up, it'll be just fine.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:22 PM
  #20829  
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Has anyone tried the protek titanium axles?
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:24 PM
  #20830  
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Originally Posted by chonchachencho
Has anyone tried the protek titanium axles?

For $80 nope... They wold have to be jewel crusted. Amain has gone bat shit crazy with their pricing.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:28 PM
  #20831  
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Does anyone have a guess as to if/when the kashima/fox shocks with the new shafts and pistons will be sold as a kit?

Thanks
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:39 PM
  #20832  
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Originally Posted by chonchachencho
Has anyone tried the protek titanium axles?
I ran them for 6 months and they're tremendous.

Are they durable? To a point. If you crash a lot, I would not recommend them. Are you a top 17.5 racer in your state or region? Buy them. They will drop 10-15 degrees on the motor temp over a 10 minute run.

They're merely an expensive piece of building the perfect driveline of a 17 5 car.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:40 PM
  #20833  
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Originally Posted by Tmc1
Does anyone have a guess as to if/when the kashima/fox shocks with the new shafts and pistons will be sold as a kit?

Thanks
I'm sure if you called AE customer service, or asked Sean Cochran here, they would be delighted to tell you.

Rear bodies are still oos, should be back in stock soon I was told
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:47 PM
  #20834  
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Originally Posted by Socket
I'm sure if you called AE customer service, or asked Sean Cochran here, they would be delighted to tell you.

Rear bodies are still oos, should be back in stock soon I was told
Ill give them a call, thanks Socket.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:49 PM
  #20835  
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My guess would be not for a while. Since they dont make the cheapy pistons yet for the new shafts, they would need to include machines pistons. And for tuning purposes, that might be hard. Unless they packaged in all of the machined pistons. Which would be costly. So, I am going to go on a limb and say long ways out.
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