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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:06 PM   #20671
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I hacked my body up so bad, I ended up buying the JConcepts S2 Worlds body which is made for it
I ordered that same body! I just hacked my body up too! Now I gotta figure out how to paint it? Saw a thread on spry paint.

Anyone got tips on spray paint for the lexan plastic?
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:21 AM   #20672
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hey all! Just finishing my new B5M FL kit build and I am excited to get racing! I had a couple Q's and I apologize if these should go into another location, but they might be B5M related. I am an electric noob (did nitro for years and years).

1) I have the Reedy Mach 3 10.5 motor, but the screws in the kit are 8mm long and the motor manual says usually the screws are 6mm long. Will the 8's included in the kit be too long and damage the motor?

2) When building the shocks, the eyelets on the bottom of the shafts had either 3 or 5 printed on them but they looked identical. Is there a difference?

3) Wiring: I have a HobbyWing Justock ESC and Orion shorty 4500mah 100c battery. The ESC already has all the wires attached to it which is nice - do you usually mount the motor in the car and then solder it up? Also, my battery has bullet connectors - do I just solder bullets onto the red/black wires and plug it directly into the battery, or should I include a Deans connector in between the battery and ESC? I also have the new Reedy charger so not sure if that has bullet ends I plug right into the battery, or I need to buy/make an adapter.

Thanks for the help! I thought the kit was a very nice and fun build, and my first since my RC10GT2FT kit a few years ago. I thought the instructions could have been clearer on what is right and left on some steps and other misc steps (for example, I guess they assume you know to place all the blue rubber seals on the bearings to the outside but it's not noted. Also the first bag with regular bearings had 2 that were not used until much later, and the bags didn't seem to be labeled the same as the manual), but I figured it out.

Last edited by hord1080; 09-07-2016 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:27 AM   #20673
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4) Wiring: I have a HobbyWing Justock ESC and Orion shorty 4500mah 100c battery. The ESC already has all the wires attached to it which is nice - do you usually mount the motor in the car and then solder it up? Also, my battery has bullet connectors - do I just solder bullets onto the red/black wires and plug it directly into the battery, or should I include a Deans connector in between the battery and ESC? I also have the new Reedy charger so not sure if that has bullet ends I plug right into the battery, or I need to buy/make an adapter.
I think it is easiest to solder it after everything is mounted in place in the car, helps make for a cleaner looking wiring job. Solder bullets directly to esc battery leads. if your charger has a deans connector, you can just make an adapter to use for charging.

Also, Hobbywing says motor limit on that esc for 1/10 off road is an 11.5
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:15 PM   #20674
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Question about gluing the steering block and/or caster block inserts. Do people generally glue one or the other or both? And what kind of glue is best to use? Something like tire glue or just thread lock?
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:32 AM   #20675
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Question about gluing the steering block and/or caster block inserts. Do people generally glue one or the other or both? And what kind of glue is best to use? Something like tire glue or just thread lock?
Hi,

For the steering blocks, glue both, two small spots of glue is enough.
Tyre glue is fine.

Don't use thread lock on plastic!!

MiCk B. :-)
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Old 09-07-2016, 04:27 AM   #20676
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Hi,

For the steering blocks, glue both, two small spots of glue is enough.
Tyre glue is fine.

Don't use thread lock on plastic!!

MiCk B. :-)
Thanks for the advice!
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Old 09-07-2016, 07:09 AM   #20677
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Thanks for the input! Bummer about the 10.5 not working with the Justock ESC. Wonder if I should go to a 13.5 Reedy or upgrade the ESC to be most competitive in Mod on an indoor clay track.
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Old 09-07-2016, 07:24 AM   #20678
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Thanks for the input! Bummer about the 10.5 not working with the Justock ESC. Wonder if I should go to a 13.5 Reedy or upgrade the ESC to be most competitive in Mod on an indoor clay track.
Bench cleanup sale! HW ESC, Sanwa ESC/RX, Reedy motors, Lipo

This guy is selling a used HW Stockspec 3.1 for $80. PRetty good deal you have to solder the wires on it appears though. That is a nice speedo great for stock and Mod.

This one has the wires

Losi 22 3.0 ARTR with spares/upgrades
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:11 PM   #20679
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Question regarding cutting of the plastic bracing:

I'd like to cut between the thumb screw mounts out so that I can center my ESC. I have seen many do this, as well as cut the one out behind the servo. Does removing one or both of these have any real effects on the chassis in either a positive or negative way?

Regarding steering:

I drove another guys Tlr22 3.0 today. His car seemed to have much faster steering and could turn much quicker and tighter. At first that killed me and the car felt twitchy but then I got used to it. When I went back to my b5m lite the steering felt super slow and much wider. I checked my endpoints on his recommendation and they are as high as they can go before generating a buzzing servo. I have a savox 1257tg that I know is lightning quick so I'm thinking this is more of an issue with my setup. Any recommendations?

Also, regarding stock class fan usage:

When I mounted my WTF fan I instantly couldn't fit my stock body. I'm using the gravity rc waterfall mount. Seems this is common occurance? I mainly practice so I don't just run 6 minutes then go to the pits, I'd like to run my full pack and then move to my next battery. Seems like a fan will be needed to run that long as my TrakPower MS 17.5 gets quite hot after 7-10 minutes. Should a jconcepts finisher solve that? Ordered one to try.

May need suggestions for a better 17.5 as well. I'm geared 30/69 and don't have near the bottom end nor top end of many other 17.5s I have practiced with.

Thank you all!

Last edited by Ride1226; 09-08-2016 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:05 AM   #20680
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Originally Posted by Ride1226 View Post
Regarding steering:

I drove another guys Tlr22 3.0 today. His car seemed to have much faster steering and could turn much quicker and tighter. At first that killed me and the car felt twitchy but then I got used to it. When I went back to my b5m lite the steering felt super slow and much wider. I checked my endpoints on his recommendation and they are as high as they can go before generating a buzzing servo. I have a savox 1257tg that I know is lightning quick so I'm thinking this is more of an issue with my setup. Any recommendations?

Also, regarding stock class fan usage:

When I mounted my WTF fan I instantly couldn't fit my stock body. I'm using the gravity rc waterfall mount. Seems this is common occurance? I mainly practice so I don't just run 6 minutes then go to the pits, I'd like to run my full pack and then move to my next battery. Seems like a fan will be needed to run that long as my TrakPower MS 17.5 gets quite hot after 7-10 minutes. Should a jconcepts finisher solve that? Ordered one to try.

May need suggestions for a better 17.5 as well. I'm geared 30/69 and don't have near the bottom end nor top end of many other 17.5s I have practiced with.

Thank you all!
whats your shock setup? (for steering)
Finnisher has a higher roof area. I used a Safeway fan mount and it clears it.

what motor and timing are you at?
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:51 AM   #20681
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I think citting the chassis braces actually has a positive effect on handling on the 5 series, more chassis flex and traction.

See the 17.5 speed tricks and tips thread for a lot of good info regarding this class. Things like lightened drivetrains, slipper eliminators and hi amp charging are all used in 17.5 for more speed.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:25 AM   #20682
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I am running a TrakPower MS Series 17.5t at it's full 45* of timing.

I have read about the high amp charging and I'm simply not going to go down that road. 2c charging is the most my batteries will see. I just strongly disagree with that whole topic. I asked the gent that let me drive his 22 3.0 yesterday and he doesn't do it. So that wasn't the difference between my car and his. In fact, he's running the exact same smc 60c factory spec shorties that I am. He is however running a Schuur Speed 17.5t.

As for my shock setup I have to admit I'm not sure what's inside them. I bought the car off another user here at a steal and in nearly new shape. I ran it at OCRC and it jumped and landed so nicely that I didn't tear the shocks down. They have white springs front and rear. Rear are kashima bodied, front regular.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:41 AM   #20683
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He is however running a Schuur Speed 17.5t
An off the shelf 89.00 one or a 200+ dollar hand built, shimmed , top 5% of the top 5% ? Big difference.

Is he running aluminum pucks? Cut gears? Slot car pinion? Right at 1500 grams? There is alot you can do and never get into charging beyond 2c.
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:42 PM   #20684
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I think citting the chassis braces actually has a positive effect on handling on the 5 series, more chassis flex and traction.
interesting... Which part of the brace should be cut? Pics?
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:45 PM   #20685
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interesting... Which part of the brace should be cut? Pics?
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