137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-02-2015, 08:35 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (34)
MIP Pucks and or Schelle Clutch
05-02-2015, 09:31 AM
We officially started sugared track season. I found out the light weight car I built before I bought my Lite is lighter than my Lite. Its 1425 grams with a 3250 pack.....and with an Orion 4500 pack its 1470. If I want to run in the JBRL I will have to add some weight.
When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.
Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.
Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
05-02-2015, 10:33 AM
Hey guys I just wanted to let everyone oh here know about a new company making custom Diff parts for the B5 series. Check them out at www.slickdiffz.com
Bfast, TKO, and now this company. Schelle? Exotek? Who's next?
05-02-2015, 11:32 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (34)
We officially started sugared track season. I found out the light weight car I built before I bought my Lite is lighter than my Lite. Its 1425 grams with a 3250 pack.....and with an Orion 4500 pack its 1470. If I want to run in the JBRL I will have to add some weight.
When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.
Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.
Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
05-02-2015, 12:05 PM
We officially started sugared track season. I found out the light weight car I built before I bought my Lite is lighter than my Lite. Its 1425 grams with a 3250 pack.....and with an Orion 4500 pack its 1470. If I want to run in the JBRL I will have to add some weight.
When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.
Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
When I built my Lite I tried a bunch of new stuff. 1) Imbue brass shock pistons. I give those a fail. I can't quite explain why, but they make the car feel weird...maybe too much pack even when I lighten up the oil. 2) Proline VTRs.....also a fail. The rears are starting to tear. They don't last long and its not because the tread wears out, rather, its because the sidewall is coming apart. 3) I bought a Hobbywing Bandit 17.5 non ROAR legal stock motor. I give the motor a big thumbs up. There is no faster 17.5. Its just plain wrong. If your track has loose rules its the way to go. It is a torque monster and feels like a stout 13.5. I have it geared 35/69 and I just ordered a 36 pinion. I might even try 36/66. The magnets are so strong that you can barely turn the motor over by hand. If you're going to run a cheater motor these are half the price of a certified big blue. Mine hasn't got over 140 and Hobbywing says they are rated to a conservative 212.
Last, I have a question. I'm running white/white springs with b5 arms fr/rr and it seems like I could use just a hair more steering. I'm runnning pretty much the [Lite] box setup down to the oil. Since the track is sugared, traction is as good as it gets. Anybody run green springs up front? For my RB6 I'd stiffen the rear first but I know the b5m is definitely different in that respect. I also tried to run a heavier lipo and that didn't change the cars feel much so I'm out of ideas.
05-02-2015, 04:28 PM
Anybody having problems with a shock sitting on the mount? I have the aluminum mounts and there is a ton of play between the shock and the mount.
05-02-2015, 04:36 PM
05-02-2015, 04:59 PM
05-02-2015, 05:08 PM
05-02-2015, 05:55 PM
I got the short shock mounts. They will still work correct? To get those black pivot balls, do i need to buy the other package?
05-02-2015, 08:27 PM
If your going to use the Aluminum Shock Bushing on your B5M you need both parts which are sold separately.
ASC91533 Shock Bushings
ASC91447 Shock Bushing Balls
ASC91533 Shock Bushings
ASC91447 Shock Bushing Balls
05-02-2015, 08:28 PM
Mine came with the bushings in it.
Going to the 1.4x3 will just give more steering right? Seems to be a very common setup change, but I don't think I could handle more steering.
The spacers on the ball-stud on the front shock tower affects what?
Going to the 1.4x3 will just give more steering right? Seems to be a very common setup change, but I don't think I could handle more steering.
The spacers on the ball-stud on the front shock tower affects what?
05-02-2015, 08:36 PM
I use the avid ones. 5 months and still snug on the shock caps
05-02-2015, 09:28 PM
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html
05-03-2015, 07:22 AM
