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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-13-2016, 05:36 AM   #20251
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Originally Posted by joncmack View Post
If it's only happening at the end of the day/night of racing when the groove starts to get a little dusty, it sounds like your setup isn't off. Maybe just try loosening the slipper slightly throughout the night. That's a simply adjustment you can do even during warm up laps.
With all this discussion about hub position and traction, I have to ask a silly question. Pardon me in advance for the rookie inquiry

As I understand it; most setup (nearly all best I can tell) are two sided. In other words, it you make a change of some sort...it has a positive impact and a shortfall/sacrifice. Following this post, it appears moving the posts forward is an exception and merely increases traction. If that is the case, why wouldn't AE's stock setup have you build with the spacers behind the arm (assuming that is how you get the arms forward)? Secondly, wouldn't you always want that configuration if there is no down side? Lastly, wouldn't this same logic apply to the T5m and SC5m which use the same spacers and configuration?

Are there any circumstances where you would not want this increased traction without having to sacrifice something else?
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Old 05-13-2016, 05:57 AM   #20252
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Originally Posted by freezeframe007 View Post
With all this discussion about hub position and traction, I have to ask a silly question. Pardon me in advance for the rookie inquiry

As I understand it; most setup (nearly all best I can tell) are two sided. In other words, it you make a change of some sort...it has a positive impact and a shortfall/sacrifice. Following this post, it appears moving the posts forward is an exception and merely increases traction. If that is the case, why wouldn't AE's stock setup have you build with the spacers behind the arm (assuming that is how you get the arms forward)? Secondly, wouldn't you always want that configuration if there is no down side? Lastly, wouldn't this same logic apply to the T5m and SC5m which use the same spacers and configuration?

Are there any circumstances where you would not want this increased traction without having to sacrifice something else?
Well, you're shortening the wheelbase, which is going to make the car less stable when the track is bumpy and it's going to make it more prone to switching directions quickly (good and bad) and harder to control when you get sideways, etc. Also, you're changing the weight balance so there will be more weight over the rear axle, but also more weight sticking out behind the rear axle, which will take weight off the front wheels, making the car more likely to understeer. So just like everything else, it is a trade-off.
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Old 05-13-2016, 05:58 AM   #20253
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You esc and radio should be set so that full throttle isn't until it's all the way back. This is probably your main issue if you're getting full throttle at half trigger.

Btw 100% is 100% way back in the day when I ran stock there was this same myth of setting your esc to to your radio at 100% then afterwards turning your throttle epa up to 150 to get more "power" this isn't true. That's an adjustment for using a servo for throttle on nitro cars. 100% is 100% the esc can't go farther than what it's max is. Recalibrate your radio to your esc.
This is interesting! My Airtronics MT4 settings goes up to 150%. I was told to set it to 150% and calibrate to the esc...then use the D/R to adjust the steering for feel/effect. Is that right?

I ask because I also heard someone say (for steering only): adjust the epa setting down from 150% to find the steering end points and then calibrate to the esc. That seemed a little odd considering that the cal process doesn't even involve moving the steering knob.

I know this is a B5m thread. Feel free to send me a message.

TIA
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Old 05-13-2016, 06:17 AM   #20254
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This is interesting! My Airtronics MT4 settings goes up to 150%. I was told to set it to 150% and calibrate to the esc...then use the D/R to adjust the steering for feel/effect. Is that right?

I ask because I also heard someone say (for steering only): adjust the epa setting down from 150% to find the steering end points and then calibrate to the esc. That seemed a little odd considering that the cal process doesn't even involve moving the steering knob.

I know this is a B5m thread. Feel free to send me a message.

TIA
Calibrating the ESC has absolutely nothing to do with the steering. You're correct to think that's odd. I would not get advice from those people anymore lol. I just set my steering EPA to where each side is at the end point of the steering. So mine might be 108% or something. Then I use D/R to turn it down a little (80-90%) and play with that adjustment during practice.

And setting your EPA to 150% on the throttle and then calibrating the ESC? I can't see how that's any different than setting EPA to 100% and calibrating the ESC. It seems pointless. Either way you're telling the ESC that full throttle on the Tx equals full throttle on the ESC. Just set it to 100% and calibrate. I do use the D/R on the throttle to control the brake level. I set brakes at 100% with my ESC programming box. Then I use the D/R to back it off to where the brakes feel right (usually around 60% on my MT-4).
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Old 05-13-2016, 09:33 AM   #20255
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new b5m user here. Just picked up this stocker second hand and it's a clean machine! cleaned up the layout of electronics, and resoldered all joints. heres a pic!
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:41 AM   #20256
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new b5m user here. Just picked up this stocker second hand and it's a clean machine! cleaned up the layout of electronics, and resoldered all joints. heres a pic!
Looks good. I hope you enjoy racing it as much as I have.
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:26 PM   #20257
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Ok so we have rear tranny, mid tranny and lay down tranny! Which bathroom would mid tranny use?
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:35 AM   #20258
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Ok so we have rear tranny, mid tranny and lay down tranny! Which bathroom would mid tranny use?
The "family" bathroom
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:44 PM   #20259
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Default Shock Spring Rub

Hi, I just build my B5M kit (champions), and the rear springs rub the turnbuckles. They even look bent a little bit to get around them. I can't really figure out if/what I did wrong. The champions edition kit was packaged pretty poorly, so there is a chance I mixed some parts up, but I just don't know which ones would cause this?



Thanks!
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:48 PM   #20260
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Also, I adjusted and broke in my diff and slipper. When I ran it on pavement the rear tires slipped a lot when I gas it, does this typically mean my diff is too loose and I should tighten it? I tightened it so when i held the slipper and one tire, when i spun the other tire I couldn't get any slip.

Last question, what is the driver/allen wrench size for pinion gear set screws and the threaded rods for the battery mount? The allen wrenches that were included in the kit don't fit in this size well and I'd like to get a driver.

Thanks.
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Old 05-14-2016, 04:59 PM   #20261
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From what I can see, you have your hubs on the wrong sides. Flip them around and you should be good.

Diff adjustment is more about how the car handles in corners. If you have broken it in and it doesn't slip when you check your slipper then leave it for now. If you are turning and the inside tire is slipping and ballooning then yes, you need to tighten the diff.

As far as pinions go, some are 1.5mm and some are 1/16". It depends on the brand you bought. I have been running Losi for many moons and they are 1.5mm.
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Old 05-14-2016, 05:54 PM   #20262
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Originally Posted by nbartlet1 View Post
Also, I adjusted and broke in my diff and slipper. When I ran it on pavement the rear tires slipped a lot when I gas it, does this typically mean my diff is too loose and I should tighten it? I tightened it so when i held the slipper and one tire, when i spun the other tire I couldn't get any slip.

Last question, what is the driver/allen wrench size for pinion gear set screws and the threaded rods for the battery mount? The allen wrenches that were included in the kit don't fit in this size well and I'd like to get a driver.

Thanks.
BDS gave you some good advice. I'll just add that I have those same tires and they are fairly low traction tires so that's probably why you're loosing traction. It helps to be a little smoother on the throttle/brake and you can also get some more race oriented tires like some Proline Primes (slicks) although they will wear out faster on pavement.

Edit: also it looks like your slipper is adjusted pretty tight. If you adjust it a little looser that might help your traction off the line too. The manual suggests starting with the nut flush with the end of the shaft.
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:09 AM   #20263
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looks like the top of shock is on wrong side of shock mount they should be on the wing side
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:27 AM   #20264
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
looks like the top of shock is on wrong side of shock mount they should be on the wing side
No, the shock is mounted correctly.
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Old 05-15-2016, 05:20 AM   #20265
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Originally Posted by nbartlet1 View Post
Hi, I just build my B5M kit (champions), and the rear springs rub the turnbuckles. They even look bent a little bit to get around them. I can't really figure out if/what I did wrong. The champions edition kit was packaged pretty poorly, so there is a chance I mixed some parts up, but I just don't know which ones would cause this?



Thanks!
Hubs are backwards (wrong sides).
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