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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:05 PM   #1921
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people still drive that car?


I am curious to see if anyone comes out with a CF chassis plate for the B5M
yeah, thats what i would like to see. Maybe post it on the Exotek forum
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:01 PM   #1922
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yeah, thats what i would like to see. Maybe post it on the Exotek forum
I have this silly idea that 3 different thickness chassis plates could be make for different track conditions.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:06 PM   #1923
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I am curious to see if anyone comes out with a CF chassis plate for the B5M
Already in the works
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:07 PM   #1924
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With stock I'd spend so much time grinding, shimming, and polishing to make the car more efficient. The b5m seems like it fits together much better (fresh molds?) from what I've seen, so maybe this is less necessary.

Honestly, it has to be pretty overwhelming to the guy moving up from the novice class to find out what measures some of the 17.5 guys are taking on their cars. Slipper eliminators, lightened outdrives, pucks, ceramics, ti screws, and so on. By contrast in 2wd mod you can pretty much throw a box stock kit out there and your success is up to you and your throttle finger. It's the driver's class.
It's an easy problem to solve: 10.5 turn for stock class. Yeah you would need nice batteries still but all the other stuff wouldn't matter nearly as much.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:48 PM   #1925
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It's an easy problem to solve: 10.5 turn for stock class. Yeah you would need nice batteries still but all the other stuff wouldn't matter nearly as much.
How is that problem solved? Then it's just a limited mod class. Personally I don't see the problem at all. I race stock because I enjoy tinkering a lot, and I'm a lot better at experimenting and adjusting my chassis and suspension settings than I am at driving. Stock is a nice place for me to be. Not too fast, but still quite competitive, at least at my local track. Stock buggy is the most popular class here.

Though maybe I should add that our stock class is 13.5, so maybe super stock? Or maybe I'm just being hypocritical. I don't know who I am anymore. What year is it?
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:53 PM   #1926
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How is that problem solved? Then it's just a limited mod class. Personally I don't see the problem at all. I race stock because I enjoy tinkering a lot, and I'm a lot better at experimenting and adjusting my chassis and suspension settings than I am at driving. Stock is a nice place for me to be. Not too fast, but still quite competitive, at least at my local track. Stock buggy is the most popular class here.

Though maybe I should add that our stock class is 13.5, so maybe super stock? Or maybe I'm just being hypocritical. I don't know who I am anymore. What year is it?
Stock class should be 21.5. There should be a bigger difference between mod and stock classes so people don't get so confused when trying to decide what to run. But unfortunately it's too late for that.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:53 PM   #1927
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How is that problem solved? Then it's just a limited mod class. Personally I don't see the problem at all. I race stock because I enjoy tinkering a lot, and I'm a lot better at experimenting and adjusting my chassis and suspension settings than I am at driving. Stock is a nice place for me to be. Not too fast, but still quite competitive, at least at my local track. Stock buggy is the most popular class here.
Exactly why I run 17.5 as well. I will never be a front runner. I would probably get more satisfaction out of coming up with a mod or a part that got copied or used by the fast guys than I would taking a main.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:17 PM   #1928
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I love all this talk about weight. BTW the aluminum top shaft is already sold out, I missed out and went to try and order it this morning.

I raced the JBRL race out in IERC in the rookie class (first major race in 20yrs for me). I placed 3rd, my protek 3000mah pack was really starting to lack punch after the 5min mark of the 6min main. It's a well used pack and should prob just be used for practice now.

My car without added weight and battery comes in at 1342g which is nice, but I'd like to get it down near 1285g.

Here are the mods I have on my car to make this weight:
-Ti associated Turnbuckles
-Aluminum Screws throughout
-EVO Typo's front and back
-Aluminum Hex's on the rear
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:22 PM   #1929
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so used tymia paint for my body its the one for plastics and started cracking from just cutting it out. and first time putting the body on the car. It started to crack even more
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:28 PM   #1930
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All done. Ready to race. My paint job is an experiment...
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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-img_20140310_222010.jpg   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-img_20140310_221956.jpg   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-img_20140309_220712.jpg  
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:32 PM   #1931
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so used tymia paint for my body its the one for plastics and started cracking from just cutting it out. and first time putting the body on the car. It started to crack even more
I'm not 100% happy with my paint either. First off, I got a little seepage under the front window mask when I tried really hard to press them all down tight and spray a super light first coat. Then, when I went to spray one of my main colors, with a brand new spray can, I did a test spray first, came out clean, then went to hit the body, and out fly big globs of paint. I thought everything was good, but after it all dried, everywhere a big glob hit, the color is off (lighter). Oh well.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:33 PM   #1932
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that is part of the reason I use an airbrush.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:39 PM   #1933
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so used tymia paint for my body its the one for plastics and started cracking from just cutting it out. and first time putting the body on the car. It started to crack even more
I have been painting forever and just realized there is two different pains from tamiya. Could have sworn I had been buying the right one but not so much. You need the polycarbonate paint. Trust me, I learned the hard way.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:40 PM   #1934
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I'm not 100% happy with my paint either. First off, I got a little seepage under the front window mask when I tried really hard to press them all down tight and spray a super light first coat. Then, when I went to spray one of my main colors, with a brand new spray can, I did a test spray first, came out clean, then went to hit the body, and out fly big globs of paint. I thought everything was good, but after it all dried, everywhere a big glob hit, the color is off (lighter). Oh well.
I want to buy a new body and i am just going with a soldi color
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:41 PM   #1935
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I'm not 100% happy with my paint either. First off, I got a little seepage under the front window mask when I tried really hard to press them all down tight and spray a super light first coat. Then, when I went to spray one of my main colors, with a brand new spray can, I did a test spray first, came out clean, then went to hit the body, and out fly big globs of paint. I thought everything was good, but after it all dried, everywhere a big glob hit, the color is off (lighter). Oh well.
Heat the can with a hair dryer first.
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