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Old 03-25-2016, 01:19 PM   #19231
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I see many pro racers without an antenna sticking out of the body. Where and how do they hide their antenna and why?
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Old 03-25-2016, 01:22 PM   #19232
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I see many pro racers without an antenna sticking out of the body. Where and how do they hide their antenna and why?
rx481, rx482, and futaba offer antennaless systems.
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Old 03-25-2016, 02:13 PM   #19233
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I don't know really what they can make better on the B5M.

More room on the chassis for your Esc and Receiver better Front steering hub inserts nothing else I can think of.
how much room do you need? Cut the cradle web and you have PLENTY of room. I could mount a servo with a resistor SC from an 89' RC10 in that spot
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Old 03-25-2016, 02:34 PM   #19234
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how much room do you need? Cut the cradle web and you have PLENTY of room. I could mount a servo with a resistor SC from an 89' RC10 in that spot



When you got a hugh cap on the esc and the esc not small size wise cutting them sections out doesn't do much .
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Old 03-25-2016, 03:38 PM   #19235
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I see many pro racers without an antenna sticking out of the body. Where and how do they hide their antenna and why?
You can bend the tube or just run the antenna tube along side the chassis so it sits under the body. If your on a real big track though you want it outside the body. several companies have receivers now too with no antenna. I run indoors and and on a medium out door track so reception has not been a issue.
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Old 03-25-2016, 05:01 PM   #19236
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So after feeling really good Tuesday about my runs around the track I went back today for practice.

This time the track was really busy. Reality hit me in the face when driving in traffic and I realized I wasn't really ahead of what the car was doing. I was along for the ride.

Did two runs with 4 laps each, hit lots of stuff, marshaled the track for a while to earn back some goodwill and went home to cool off my pride. I'll try to go back tomorrow. The guys tried to get me to enter in the sportsmen class tonight but I just wasn't in the mood. I know when my frustration level has reached critical mass.

So, I'm not quite as far along getting back into this hobby as I thought. Practice, practice, practice
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Old 03-25-2016, 09:26 PM   #19237
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Not really. The last 2wd buggy AE released was 2003 - I'd say that over 10 year run breaks the norm.
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negative the B5 was released a few years ago.
^ That's a negative, The B5 series is maybe 2 years old.
From the amain website= This product was added to our catalog on February 8, 2014.
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Old 03-25-2016, 09:51 PM   #19238
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I see many pro racers without an antenna sticking out of the body. Where and how do they hide their antenna and why?
I used to run mine along the chassis somewhere where it won't get in the way. Or I sometimes run the antenna wire with the other wiring.

I didn't notice any difference cos my track is only a small layout and the furthest point from the drivers stand is only 25-30m.

I did this mainly cos the antenna tube use to constantly snap / break off and sometimes damaging the antenna wire.

But now I use the new Airtronics RX-481 antenna-less. Smaller and lighter
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Old 03-26-2016, 06:30 AM   #19239
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Does everyone pretty much set the shocks up on this car totally dead? Long story short, I wasn't bleeding near enough out of my shocks. Had a guy that always runs top 1-2 in stock buggy drive my car after installing my new fantom motor.. and he almost instantly knew the shocks weren't right. Bled the shocks... and the buggy got much much more forgiving.

The problem I'm having now is the caps are stripped out where the bleeder screw goes in. So I guess Ill be ordering new caps, maybe aluminum. Seems like the shocks would be awesome for a round or two then go down hill. I noticed oil leaking around the screw so I would open them up and find tons of air.

While I'm messing with shocks.. I keep hearing about machined pistons and upgraded shock shafts? Whats the deal?

Also.. opinions on running the white rear spring for stock buggy on a high bite indoor clay track? One of the guys there said the white spring may take some traction away but in stock you can afford it but on the + side they make lap times faster...?

Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2016, 06:48 AM   #19240
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I only use the bleeder screw during the install into new caps and then I bleed it old school by over-filling a little and loosening the cap 1 thread while pushing the shaft until it bottoms and tighten before release. It gives about 4mm rebound when finished, so basically a dead feeling shock that works great.
The upgraded shafts just use a small screw like the bleeder to hold the piston. I've never popped an E-clip on a B5 shaft as they do a good job of machining the grooves. I like that the screw type come in pairs rather than single shafts, but all TiN coated shafts are fine.
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:22 AM   #19241
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^ That's a negative, The B5 series is maybe 2 years old.
From the amain website= This product was added to our catalog on February 8, 2014.
B5 was announced Christmas day 2013 but who really cares my point was its not 10 years old.
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Old 03-26-2016, 08:34 AM   #19242
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Does everyone pretty much set the shocks up on this car totally dead? Long story short, I wasn't bleeding near enough out of my shocks. Had a guy that always runs top 1-2 in stock buggy drive my car after installing my new fantom motor.. and he almost instantly knew the shocks weren't right. Bled the shocks... and the buggy got much much more forgiving.

The problem I'm having now is the caps are stripped out where the bleeder screw goes in. So I guess Ill be ordering new caps, maybe aluminum. Seems like the shocks would be awesome for a round or two then go down hill. I noticed oil leaking around the screw so I would open them up and find tons of air.

While I'm messing with shocks.. I keep hearing about machined pistons and upgraded shock shafts? Whats the deal?

Also.. opinions on running the white rear spring for stock buggy on a high bite indoor clay track? One of the guys there said the white spring may take some traction away but in stock you can afford it but on the + side they make lap times faster...?

Thanks.
With the bleeder screw you just need to snug it up for tightness. I never stripped one doing it that way and never had a leak out the bleeder screw. When building your shocks after adding oil make sure to let them settle and all the air bubble to disappear before putting the caps on. I found that after i bled them the fist time most generally i would have to bleed them a second time before putting them on the car. The machined pistons are nice and give the shocks a smoother feel. The new shafts are nice too especially since they eliminate the clip to hold the pistons. If your not on a tight budget i suggest the new shafts and pistons. You likely won't see much of a performance gain but getting rid of the clips was worth it for me. The gold shafts are cheaper than the chrome. I have used both, they both work well. The chrome shafts feel smoother but nothing you would notice on the track in my opinion.
The aluminum caps are a waste of money, the plastic ones work fine even the factory drivers use the plastic ones over aluminum. The AE shocks require frequent maintenance to keep them smooth and tend to leak a little but not much. I like their shocks but they could be better.
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:27 AM   #19243
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With the bleeder screw you just need to snug it up for tightness. I never stripped one doing it that way and never had a leak out the bleeder screw. When building your shocks after adding oil make sure to let them settle and all the air bubble to disappear before putting the caps on. I found that after i bled them the fist time most generally i would have to bleed them a second time before putting them on the car. The machined pistons are nice and give the shocks a smoother feel. The new shafts are nice too especially since they eliminate the clip to hold the pistons. If your not on a tight budget i suggest the new shafts and pistons. You likely won't see much of a performance gain but getting rid of the clips was worth it for me. The gold shafts are cheaper than the chrome. I have used both, they both work well. The chrome shafts feel smoother but nothing you would notice on the track in my opinion.
The aluminum caps are a waste of money, the plastic ones work fine even the factory drivers use the plastic ones over aluminum. The AE shocks require frequent maintenance to keep them smooth and tend to leak a little but not much. I like their shocks but they could be better.
That makes sense on bleeding the shocks. I was bleeding them once and done.. seems like 2-3 times is what I had to do at the track to get them right.

Do the machined pistons make any difference on the track or is it just a nice to have thing?
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:27 AM   #19244
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How was the new fandom motor in comparison to what you were using and gearing? Thx

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Originally Posted by JC8390 View Post
Does everyone pretty much set the shocks up on this car totally dead? Long story short, I wasn't bleeding near enough out of my shocks. Had a guy that always runs top 1-2 in stock buggy drive my car after installing my new fantom motor.. and he almost instantly knew the shocks weren't right. Bled the shocks... and the buggy got much much more forgiving.

The problem I'm having now is the caps are stripped out where the bleeder screw goes in. So I guess Ill be ordering new caps, maybe aluminum. Seems like the shocks would be awesome for a round or two then go down hill. I noticed oil leaking around the screw so I would open them up and find tons of air.

While I'm messing with shocks.. I keep hearing about machined pistons and upgraded shock shafts? Whats the deal?

Also.. opinions on running the white rear spring for stock buggy on a high bite indoor clay track? One of the guys there said the white spring may take some traction away but in stock you can afford it but on the + side they make lap times faster...?

Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:00 AM   #19245
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That makes sense on bleeding the shocks. I was bleeding them once and done.. seems like 2-3 times is what I had to do at the track to get them right.

Do the machined pistons make any difference on the track or is it just a nice to have thing?
May notice a little difference with the machined pistons and clear xrings as it seems to free up the movement and make the shocks smoother.
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