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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:38 AM   #19111
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Actually everyone at Sparks is running slicks (Primes) on the new layout. Unless it changed from last week.
I noticed guys running those. I've been itching to try them.

Apparently the clay is starting to dry out a bit.. which I figured it would. Guys are running the slicks or proline microns from what I hear. As the layout ages slicks will get less and less effective. Looks like ill pick up a set of microns. Gotta love it, its a new tire every week it seems like lol.
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:52 AM   #19112
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Yep same here.. open practice on a small track has not been nice to my car. I went to the aluminum bulkhead after two breaks. Gotta learn to not crash these baby buggies or carry parts with ya lol.
I understand learning not to crash, but I've seen some guys abuse their cars and crash way harder and still never break the plastic 25* bulkhead.

I'm just wondering if I go to the AL one if I'll start breaking arms... the bulkhead piece is cheaper and quicker to fix.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:43 AM   #19113
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I understand learning not to crash, but I've seen some guys abuse their cars and crash way harder and still never break the plastic 25* bulkhead.

I'm just wondering if I go to the AL one if I'll start breaking arms... the bulkhead piece is cheaper and quicker to fix.
I cant recommend the aluminum bulkhead enough, i havent broken an A arm since installing mine
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:03 PM   #19114
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I had some nasty into pipe hits and never broken the Front arms or plastic bulkhead . But the alum bulkhead doesn't hurt for a little weight up front .
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:08 PM   #19115
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I've broken one arm since installing mine, but I clipped a piece of the concrete wall coming off of a jump. Surprised I didn't break more! It was $7 for 2 arms and the aluminum bulkhead was $9 when I bought it.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:24 PM   #19116
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I understand learning not to crash, but I've seen some guys abuse their cars and crash way harder and still never break the plastic 25* bulkhead.

I'm just wondering if I go to the AL one if I'll start breaking arms... the bulkhead piece is cheaper and quicker to fix.
I haven't broken any arms yet. Knock on wood. I think breaking that bulkhead is just bad luck honestly. I broke two in 10min of running but haven't seen anyone else breaking it here local.
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:58 PM   #19117
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I cant recommend the aluminum bulkhead enough, i havent broken an A arm since installing mine
What makes it so special? I have an aluminum one that is still in the package waiting for the original one to break which it hasn't so can u convince me to put it in even though nothing's wrong with the stock bulkhead
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:17 PM   #19118
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What makes it so special? I have an aluminum one that is still in the package waiting for the original one to break which it hasn't so can u convince me to put it in even though nothing's wrong with the stock bulkhead
Probably just durability, also with the aluminum ones that have the set screw in it you can do the hinge pin mod and remove the front pin holder. The mod gives you a little more clearance/approach angle on the front. I haven't done it, don't have a need for it. I purchased the brass one that has both the 25*and 30* inserts.
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:38 PM   #19119
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What makes it so special? I have an aluminum one that is still in the package waiting for the original one to break which it hasn't so can u convince me to put it in even though nothing's wrong with the stock bulkhead




It gives you more forward weight/turn in and steering also with the Alum bulkhead which cant on this buggy especially running mod motor.

Ive haven't tried out the alum bulkhead though yet.
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:41 PM   #19120
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It gives you more forward weight/turn in and steering also with the Alum bulkhead which cant on this buggy especially running mod motor.

Ive haven't tried out the alum bulkhead though yet.
I run 17.5 stock class with no weight minimum and not blinky either so anything that cuts weight is what I need to compete. Especially since I don't have one of those KILLSHOT or whatever motor that is much faster than my 17.5 Reedy Mach 3
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:57 PM   #19121
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I run 17.5 stock class with no weight minimum and not blinky either so anything that cuts weight is what I need to compete. Especially since I don't have one of those KILLSHOT or whatever motor that is much faster than my 17.5 Reedy Mach 3
You do know unless your running on a track that's smooth as glass with ultra traction, an ultralight buggy won't be any faster than a heavier one. That's why heavy buggies always win national level races. Just an fyi.

A stock class that isn't blinky might as well be a mod class....
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:05 PM   #19122
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You do know unless your running on a track that's smooth as glass with ultra traction, an ultralight buggy won't be any faster than a heavier one. That's why heavy buggies always win national level races. Just an fyi.

A stock class that isn't blinky might as well be a mod class....
I do agree that stock no blinkly might as well be mod but there is no mod class at this track. And actually yes it it super super high grip rubber mats as the track that makes carpet tracks look like low bite lol
That's why just like if more weight in a stock class was an advantage formula 1 cars would be doing adding weight.
But if my track was loose dirt then I agree I may of added a bit of weight in brass in certain area
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:48 PM   #19123
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I do agree that stock no blinkly might as well be mod but there is no mod class at this track. And actually yes it it super super high grip rubber mats as the track that makes carpet tracks look like low bite lol
That's why just like if more weight in a stock class was an advantage formula 1 cars would be doing adding weight.
But if my track was loose dirt then I agree I may of added a bit of weight in brass in certain area
Formula 1 cars don't race on tracks with jumps. In offroad racing is much much different. Your track is basically a touring car track with jumps. A VERY VERY small niche type of racing. In real offroad racing weight helps, hence why most stock nats winners are 1530+ nowhere near the minimum weight,b ut they are great drivers too! But in the end bumps really upset a light car.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:55 AM   #19124
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Formula 1 cars don't race on tracks with jumps. In offroad racing is much much different. Your track is basically a touring car track with jumps. A VERY VERY small niche type of racing. In real offroad racing weight helps, hence why most stock nats winners are 1530+ nowhere near the minimum weight,b ut they are great drivers too! But in the end bumps really upset a light car.
Also Formula 1 cars are made light for acceleration, fuel savings, tire wear, and all out speed.... But the downforce created by their wings makes the cars 'weigh' twice their actual weight, for traction and handling.... Hence, the 'heavy car' theory...
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:23 AM   #19125
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Default Fantom Motor Update

Speaking of motors, anyone have an update on the new F1 Fantom Motors in the B5M? How are they holding up and temps/gearing?

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I run 17.5 stock class with no weight minimum and not blinky either so anything that cuts weight is what I need to compete. Especially since I don't have one of those KILLSHOT or whatever motor that is much faster than my 17.5 Reedy Mach 3
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