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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:13 PM   #18931
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Originally Posted by Gigasipke View Post
I have been contemplating the Shapeways 3 gear LCG transmission for the B5M. Currently our indoor track is high grip ozite and everyone that has converted love the LCG tranny on that track. However our outdoor track will open in a month or so which is low/mid grip, being outdoors the heat/sun of the day changes it quite a bit.

So I am wondering if anyone has experience with the LCG tranny on low to mid grip surfaces? My thought is that a lower center of gravity is always beneficial, but the negative is that the weight is biased to the front due to this tranny. But maybe adding the Brass (C) mount would help to offset the weight bias, or other weights added. Thanks.
So your running at Premier Hobbies and the outdoor track is Daves? I think there would be so
many changes between the 2 it would be easier to just have a second car. One of the guys at our track tried a YZ2 and it was awful until he converted to a standup 4 gear .
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:19 PM   #18932
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Originally Posted by boucher View Post
I have the ACRC (Shapeways) 3 gear lcg trans in my car and love it. My track can go from super tacky to kinda dried out, and it still works very well either way. Plan B is working on a carbon motor plate designed specifically for the ACRC box, so that's an option instead of hacking up your standard motor plate.

Also, I saw on Facebook whoever was running the AE page replied to a comment about offering a laydown box. They said "we will have something for you that will change the game." So hopefully that happens soon lol.
Haha I saw that as well. I'm really curious to see what they've got brewing. I'm also really interested in the LCG gearbox but don't know if I wanna go in on it just yet.
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Old 03-13-2016, 04:53 AM   #18933
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Hi guys,

Today at the track in my last 2 finals my car started veering to the left on acceleration. I couldn't work out what could be causing the problem. I ended up compensating throughout the races.

Spoke to Ray Munday afterwards. He suggested;
  • Check rear shock preload are not uneven
  • a hub bearing could be an issue.
  • Rear shocks set unevenly someway.
  • Cracked arm
All look OK to me. Maybe it's the diff, but that feels smooth and normal. Once the buggy is at speed it's tracking ok.

What's your suggestions to troubleshoot. I'm thinking;
  1. Test shocks and springs on shock duplicator.
  2. Rebuild shocks
  3. Clean hubs, test bearings

If no good after testing I'll have to just rebuild the entire drivetrain, cleaning everything as I go.

Has anyone ever experienced and problem solved this issue. I have a very slight gut feel it may remotely be related to steering issue. But probably not, it tracks fine on the car park. Actually I can't seem to replicate the problem on the car park.

Need to solve before a big meet in 3 weeks time. Helpppp please?
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:49 AM   #18934
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Originally Posted by Volition View Post
Hi guys,

Today at the track in my last 2 finals my car started veering to the left on acceleration. I couldn't work out what could be causing the problem. I ended up compensating throughout the races.

Spoke to Ray Munday afterwards. He suggested;
  • Check rear shock preload are not uneven
  • a hub bearing could be an issue.
  • Rear shocks set unevenly someway.
  • Cracked arm
All look OK to me. Maybe it's the diff, but that feels smooth and normal. Once the buggy is at speed it's tracking ok.

What's your suggestions to troubleshoot. I'm thinking;
  1. Test shocks and springs on shock duplicator.
  2. Rebuild shocks
  3. Clean hubs, test bearings

If no good after testing I'll have to just rebuild the entire drivetrain, cleaning everything as I go.

Has anyone ever experienced and problem solved this issue. I have a very slight gut feel it may remotely be related to steering issue. But probably not, it tracks fine on the car park. Actually I can't seem to replicate the problem on the car park.

Need to solve before a big meet in 3 weeks time. Helpppp please?
Make sure all your bearings are spinning freely. A bad bearing was the culprit when I had similar symptoms.
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:24 PM   #18935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volition View Post
Hi guys,

Today at the track in my last 2 finals my car started veering to the left on acceleration. I couldn't work out what could be causing the problem. I ended up compensating throughout the races.

Spoke to Ray Munday afterwards. He suggested;
  • Check rear shock preload are not uneven
  • a hub bearing could be an issue.
  • Rear shocks set unevenly someway.
  • Cracked arm
All look OK to me. Maybe it's the diff, but that feels smooth and normal. Once the buggy is at speed it's tracking ok.

What's your suggestions to troubleshoot. I'm thinking;
  1. Test shocks and springs on shock duplicator.
  2. Rebuild shocks
  3. Clean hubs, test bearings

If no good after testing I'll have to just rebuild the entire drivetrain, cleaning everything as I go.

Has anyone ever experienced and problem solved this issue. I have a very slight gut feel it may remotely be related to steering issue. But probably not, it tracks fine on the car park. Actually I can't seem to replicate the problem on the car park.

Need to solve before a big meet in 3 weeks time. Helpppp please?
Ray Munday has some good suggestions. Make sure you also have your shocks pressurized the same or as close to feeling the same as possible.
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Old 03-13-2016, 05:57 PM   #18936
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does anyone tape their battery in and run without a battery strap?

Pros? Cons?
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:29 PM   #18937
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My local track is a hardpack, low/mid grip track. I plan on running stock, 17.5 buggy and also mod buggy. My stock buggy is the lite chassis B5M and my mod buggy is the CE B5M. Stock buggy has the 3 gear tranny and the mod buggy has the standard four gear with a 8.5 motor. Our track starts out wet, but depending the weather it will dry out quickly or stay damp for most of the day. Are these good combinations for this type of track or do I need to make any changes, i.e........springs, oil, transmissions, etc........Track wont open till late April/early May so Im just trying to get a jumpstart on my setups.
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:48 PM   #18938
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Originally Posted by Volition View Post
Hi guys,

Today at the track in my last 2 finals my car started veering to the left on acceleration. I couldn't work out what could be causing the problem. I ended up compensating throughout the races.

Spoke to Ray Munday afterwards. He suggested;
  • Check rear shock preload are not uneven
  • a hub bearing could be an issue.
  • Rear shocks set unevenly someway.
  • Cracked arm
All look OK to me. Maybe it's the diff, but that feels smooth and normal. Once the buggy is at speed it's tracking ok.

What's your suggestions to troubleshoot

...

Has anyone ever experienced and problem solved this issue. I have a very slight gut feel it may remotely be related to steering issue. But probably not, it tracks fine on the car park. Actually I can't seem to replicate the problem on the car park.

Need to solve before a big meet in 3 weeks time. Helpppp please?
I've been at this almost 30 yrs, and still fumble to find these

- Check that any slop is at least symetric. I've had where one rear arm slides more than the other, and had that effect. Cleared up after replacing appropriate interface parts.
- Check all the inserts. B5m of course has lots. In the haste of cleaning up after poor driving skills (quick arm change) I've either located them incorrectly, or grabbed a mismatch to the other side.
- Check rear toe inserts especially. If you run the aluminium support, this can be goofed up really easy.
- Of course check for a tweaked chassis.
- Check for broken shock towers too.
- Tone back front toe out if you are running it. It can give more of a wandering feel.
- Check for bent shock shafts. The bent side binds up, the other does not.

Ray is the master, but I guarantee I crash more!

In general, inconsistent acceleration troubles have been solved for me with replacing worn out suspension parts. Especially in the B4 era. Tighten everything up, and should point like a missile.

Last edited by mick33b4; 03-13-2016 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:50 PM   #18939
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Originally Posted by motoman811 View Post
does anyone tape their battery in and run without a battery strap?

Pros? Cons?
I have taped mine in for the past two years. Never had it come loose. It started with the Centro buggy and now with my B5m and T5m. I use the gray 3m double sided tape from Home Depot. I tape the lipo in to reduce the overall weight of the buggy for 17.5.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:13 PM   #18940
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Originally Posted by motoman811 View Post
does anyone tape their battery in and run without a battery strap?

Pros? Cons?
In theory it should allow your chassis to flex more and give you more traction. The only con is that the battery is stuck in the car. I've run cars w/o a strap with no issues for a long time just like lbcKevin. There really is no downside unless your track has so much traction that you don't want extra chassis movement.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:18 PM   #18941
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Originally Posted by Volition View Post
Hi guys,

Today at the track in my last 2 finals my car started veering to the left on acceleration. I couldn't work out what could be causing the problem. I ended up compensating throughout the races.

Spoke to Ray Munday afterwards. He suggested;
  • Check rear shock preload are not uneven
  • a hub bearing could be an issue.
  • Rear shocks set unevenly someway.
  • Cracked arm
All look OK to me. Maybe it's the diff, but that feels smooth and normal. Once the buggy is at speed it's tracking ok.

What's your suggestions to troubleshoot. I'm thinking;
  1. Test shocks and springs on shock duplicator.
  2. Rebuild shocks
  3. Clean hubs, test bearings

If no good after testing I'll have to just rebuild the entire drivetrain, cleaning everything as I go.

Has anyone ever experienced and problem solved this issue. I have a very slight gut feel it may remotely be related to steering issue. But probably not, it tracks fine on the car park. Actually I can't seem to replicate the problem on the car park.

Need to solve before a big meet in 3 weeks time. Helpppp please?

Is it possible that there is something wrong with a wheel or maybe a tire has come unglued? Problems like this always seem to be caused by something simple. I'd swap tires and see if you still have the problem.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:52 PM   #18942
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Just ordered a fantom 17.5 today. Looking for some gearing suggestions. I currently run a 32 tooth and get to about 90 degrees in these cooler temperatures. Should I be gearing about the same as my Hobbywing 3650? From what I read here, I am thinking I should start with a 30 or 31 tooth? Any suggestions would be appreciated for my mid size high bite clay track.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:58 PM   #18943
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm View Post
Just ordered a fantom 17.5 today. Looking for some gearing suggestions. I currently run a 32 tooth and get to about 90 degrees in these cooler temperatures. Should I be gearing about the same as my Hobbywing 3650? From what I read here, I am thinking I should start with a 30 or 31 tooth? Any suggestions would be appreciated for my mid size high bite clay track.
32/69 would be a good starting point. Go up or down depending on what you need. More punch go down a tooth or more top end go up a tooth or two. With these newer motors I rarely gear for temps since these newer motors are plenty fast and rarely get very warm.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:58 PM   #18944
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm View Post
Just ordered a fantom 17.5 today. Looking for some gearing suggestions. I currently run a 32 tooth and get to about 90 degrees in these cooler temperatures. Should I be gearing about the same as my Hobbywing 3650? From what I read here, I am thinking I should start with a 30 or 31 tooth? Any suggestions would be appreciated for my mid size high bite clay track.
It's impossible to gear a car over the internet. Gearing is voltage, temp, feel, and weight based. Also, the rotating mass of your drivetrain can have an effect as well.

However, that said, start small and work up. Make sure your timing is at 55-60 degrees, and you have a very strong 8.4v fan on the motor.
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:04 PM   #18945
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Ok, I know it is hard to tell me what to do over the internet, but I was just hoping for a general guideline. I loved the rip from adding a 33 pinion but I just couldn't get up to top speed on the straight as much as I felt I needed to . I just wasn't sure if this motor was a real burner (as in heat), so I didn't want to go out on my first run with a 32 or 33 and see 160+ temps.
I do have a fan on my motor since I am way underweight so I am hoping I will see similar temps as I have currently just with more rip :P
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