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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:35 AM
  #18901  
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Originally Posted by Peter Martin
These will help tremendously.

Made for this type of application.

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=596
Interesting!

I've used those TKO bearings for nitro clutch bells and they work great. Never realized the B5/B5M front axle bearings were the same size.

Good info, thanks!
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:43 AM
  #18902  
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Thank you.

Rears too. 5x13.

They are working great in the wheels and hubs.
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:53 AM
  #18903  
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Originally Posted by JeepnMike
Are you selling all of your 2.4's and not planning on running them for mod? I am still beating this one up deciding on which tire / wheel I want to go with in my new buggy. From what I can tell, there was a few folks griping about the glue coming up, which to me sounds more like a glue / operator problem. If 2.4" is better overall (for mod) and is likely the direction all will be headed after ROAR approves them, why not jump on the bandwagon now? I am obviously not racing in any ROAR events, I just want to get the best and not yesterday's news.

I can see I am going to have to re-learn how to glue tires (the right and clean way). All of my 1/8 scale stuff has been pre-mounts.

Thanks for your help!
IMO the 2.4's suck unless you are on high bite as they allow the car to rotate more and just generally have less traction. Also they rip off the wheel and the foams do not last IMO.

I have been running the 2.2 EVO conversion Chainlinks and they are sooooo much better than the 2.4's. I have ran them back to back and every time I do the 2.2's are so much better that its almost like a totally different tire.

Even most of the AKA drivers are running the EVO conversion on the Chainlinks and its not just because the 2.4's are not ROAR approved its bc they work better that way.
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:04 AM
  #18904  
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Originally Posted by dbowen
IMO the 2.4's suck unless you are on high bite as they allow the car to rotate more and just generally have less traction. Also they rip off the wheel and the foams do not last IMO.

I have been running the 2.2 EVO conversion Chainlinks and they are sooooo much better than the 2.4's. I have ran them back to back and every time I do the 2.2's are so much better that its almost like a totally different tire.

Even most of the AKA drivers are running the EVO conversion on the Chainlinks and its not just because the 2.4's are not ROAR approved its bc they work better that way.
From my testing, I'll agree. Another AE teammate that I race with runs for PL and he had the same tearing issues and overall less grip. When I ran the JC stuff, (which was limited because it had noticeably less grip) I didn't like them at all. Our track is medium bite and not very smooth at all.

The forward grip was good, zero side bite!
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:06 AM
  #18905  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
It has been noted by a few of our other team drivers that the hard steering blocks somehow magnify the problem. I would use the stock steering blocks and inserts OR the stock blocks with the hard inserts.
Thanks, that's good info.

Originally Posted by Jason Baliban
I can echo this finding. I tried the same thing and my bearings got crunchy extremely fast. Perhaps even more telling is that when i broke one of the blocks and went back to my older blocks with the same bearings, the bearings felt better. When i say old, i mean old, you could see the inserts just moving around in the blocks.

jB
Thank you.

So are you guys saying do, or do not, glue the inserts?
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:08 AM
  #18906  
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the old tires and wheels worked fine, the old saying no need to reinvent the wheel. I prefer the old style.
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by iScream
Thanks, that's good info.



Thank you.

So are you guys saying do, or do not, glue the inserts?
GLUE THEM! Problem solved.
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:17 AM
  #18908  
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OK on a med to high bite track I was going to go with an inline setup but keep the battery across the width of the chassis. Would it be better to run ESC against the servo or the receiver? Or would it be a more of a benefit to run the battery straight all the way forward with the ESC and receiver against the waterfall?
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
GLUE THEM! Problem solved.
do you have a good technique for this?
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:48 AM
  #18910  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
GLUE THEM! Problem solved.
Gluing did not solve the prob for me. It may have made it worse. Maybe because they were hard parts, maybe because i glued them wrong, i dont know. I almost think the slight movement of the insert in the hub may protect the bearing a bit, but that is a total guess.

I will not be gluing again from my experience.

I use Avid bearings, just to clarify.

jB
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:53 AM
  #18911  
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Just to counter the failures, gluing both regular and hard inserts has reduced how quickly my bearings go bad, I used to replace one a race day, now approx every 4. I used a little glue around the edge and didn't put the axle in, just tried to seat the inserts straight.
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Old 02-26-2015, 11:20 AM
  #18912  
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Anyone have suggestions on my B5m with traction rolling. My local track has a high speed chicane. I am running handlebar fronts with dirt tech inserts and chainlink rears with aka red inserts. It seems when i enter the chicane the front tires sidewall is flexing and im hitting the rim. Any suggestions on keeping this from happening. and different foams I can run?
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Old 02-26-2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
From my testing, I'll agree. Another AE teammate that I race with runs for PL and he had the same tearing issues and overall less grip. When I ran the JC stuff, (which was limited because it had noticeably less grip) I didn't like them at all. Our track is medium bite and not very smooth at all.

The forward grip was good, zero side bite!
Thanks for the replies on the 2.4" stuff I posted guys, this is good and helfpul info. I am not sure if you are talking about Nick above, but he echo'd your comments, I will stick with 2.2". I have been running Dirtwebs, but am kind of excited to try Electrons. Up here (TRCR), J-Concepts and AKA still kind of run the roost, it should be fun to see how the Electrons do.

Thanks again for the replies and help.

- Mike

Last edited by JeepnMike; 02-26-2015 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 02-26-2015, 11:43 AM
  #18914  
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Originally Posted by Jason Baliban
Gluing did not solve the prob for me. It may have made it worse. Maybe because they were hard parts, maybe because i glued them wrong, i dont know. I almost think the slight movement of the insert in the hub may protect the bearing a bit, but that is a total guess.

I will not be gluing again from my experience.

I use Avid bearings, just to clarify.

jB
After glueing I've been in the same bearings for months. I put in the FT bearing kit for nationals and haven't taken them out.

When you glue you must have the bearings in the inserts and have the axle ready to put in there to align it all properly. I've only done it once and I put just a few tiny dots of CA around the steering knuckle. Since there is movement, if you don't have the bearings and axle in there quickly there's a good chance it will not be aligned properly.
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Old 02-26-2015, 11:46 AM
  #18915  
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Originally Posted by racer_rick
Anyone have suggestions on my B5m with traction rolling. My local track has a high speed chicane. I am running handlebar fronts with dirt tech inserts and chainlink rears with aka red inserts. It seems when i enter the chicane the front tires sidewall is flexing and im hitting the rim. Any suggestions on keeping this from happening. and different foams I can run?
That sounds a little extreme... Especially since the dirt tech inserts are some of the best. To verify if that is actually the case (rim hitting dirt) find someone with an iPhone 6 to take some slo-mo video of the car in that corner to verify your hypothesis.
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