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Old 03-07-2016, 06:25 AM   #18796
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So I'm guessing the AE lite chassis is really where it's at then? Especially for the $...
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:01 AM   #18797
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Volition, large, bumpy, dirt tracks are probably one of the toughest places to run a 2wd buggy. I think you need to make a effort to switch your 4wd thinking off when switching classes (I know, it's tough to do). My personal opinion is that if someone tells you the servo is too fast and should be slowed down, it is a bandaid for another issue. The VAST majority of folks wouldn't be able to tell the difference between 0.08 and 0.07. I'm assuming you have been in contact with Ray Munday about the Australia setups? That dude knows his stuff!
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:19 AM   #18798
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So I'm guessing the AE lite chassis is really where it's at then? Especially for the $...
If you're running stock, the JC chassis or the lite is the way to go. The lite chassis has noticeable amount of flex when on the car and twisted by hand. It also has a different feel on the track. It's even more noticeable when on high grip tracks. I liked the lite chassis in mod for our outdoor bumpy loose tracks. If I was running stock on a high bite indoor track is get the JC chassis. Weight savings and less flex. If you need to save a few bucks get the lite. However, trying to save money AND be a competitive racer... very difficult.

If you're just getting used to evrything, stay with what ya got for a while and learn the car. Clean consistent laps mean more than any chassis, pucks, or ceramic bearings!!!
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:24 AM   #18799
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If you're running stock, the JC chassis or the lite is the way to go. The lite chassis has noticeable amount of flex when on the car and twisted by hand. It also has a different feel on the track. It's even more noticeable when on high grip tracks. I liked the lite chassis in mod for our outdoor bumpy loose tracks. If I was running stock on a high bite indoor track is get the JC chassis. Weight savings and less flex. If you need to save a few bucks get the lite. However, trying to save money AND be a competitive racer... very difficult.

If you're just getting used to evrything, stay with what ya got for a while and learn the car. Clean consistent laps mean more than any chassis, pucks, or ceramic bearings!!!
Right.. my fast lap is usually slower than guys 3-4 positions below me... but I ran the entire program last Friday without being marshaled.
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:27 AM   #18800
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Right...I'm running a 32. I went to a 30 and it lost its bottom end. I could almost instantly tell I didn't like it.
You never said which motor, gearing can be very different from brand to brand.
You said the esc was Turnigy. If you're running the Trackstar 17.5 V2 then you need to try a 34T pinion.
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:52 AM   #18801
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Default Light weight conversion kit

Found a new light weight conversion kit..... TLR 22 3.0 1539 with nothing light weight added. I have both AE and TLR and was surprised the weight difference between the two. both drive great, not trying to start a debate was just sharing how surprised i was at the weight comparison.
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:02 PM   #18802
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Found a new light weight conversion kit..... TLR 22 3.0 1539 with nothing light weight added. I have both AE and TLR and was surprised the weight difference between the two. both drive great, not trying to start a debate was just sharing how surprised i was at the weight comparison.
What running gear in the 3.0? I've haven't seen a stock 3.0 on the scale be that light. FYI, Xray carpet car I saw was a pig as well at pushing almost 1600g with a short servo.

My FT lite with a puck system, Avid slipper, standard 6040 Spektrum servo, Orion esc w/fan, Fantom Motor, and a 4200mah battery taped in is under 1500g. I have 2 nickles, yes nickles, taped to the battery to make weight. And that's running AKA 2.2 rims with JC tires
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:03 PM   #18803
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Found a new light weight conversion kit..... TLR 22 3.0 1539 with nothing light weight added. I have both AE and TLR and was surprised the weight difference between the two. both drive great, not trying to start a debate was just sharing how surprised i was at the weight comparison.
Obviously it depends on the electronics/battery you're running, but I think the B5M Lite comes in right around that weight too.
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:45 PM   #18804
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Thanks everyone in this thread for the help.. especially the ones that got themselves banned for a bit trying to help lol. Good to have people that want to help that much.

I have an F1 motor on the way, cut gears from speedy RC and the JC chassis..along with some other replacement parts to keep her in good order, some soft springs and some protec tire sauce. More than $100 lol but oh well. I may try the MIP stuff later on.
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:49 PM   #18805
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You never said which motor, gearing can be very different from brand to brand.
You said the esc was Turnigy. If you're running the Trackstar 17.5 V2 then you need to try a 34T pinion.
Yep, that's the motor... what would a 34 vs a 32 do for it? Its somewhat mute as I have another motor coming.. but I may not get it in time for this weekend..
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:20 PM   #18806
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What running gear in the 3.0? I've haven't seen a stock 3.0 on the scale be that light. FYI, Xray carpet car I saw was a pig as well at pushing almost 1600g with a short servo.

My FT lite with a puck system, Avid slipper, standard 6040 Spektrum servo, Orion esc w/fan, Fantom Motor, and a 4200mah battery taped in is under 1500g. I have 2 nickles, yes nickles, taped to the battery to make weight. And that's running AKA 2.2 rims with JC tires
i am running a tekin rsx furtaba receiver spektrum servo tekin motor orion 4500 shorty. Just holding it i thought it felt lighter so i threw it on the scale and was impressed.
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:48 PM   #18807
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Yep, that's the motor... what would a 34 vs a 32 do for it? Its somewhat mute as I have another motor coming.. but I may not get it in time for this weekend..
The extra gear adds a lot of bottom end and mid range punch, even though bicycle physics that we learned as kid tells us it should be the opposite. The original Novak SS motors were like that too. With a 34T pinion and 43 degrees timing on the can, I get all the rip that was missing and it comes off the track @130F after a 5 min race and uses roughly 1150 mah.

I'm running the same motor and it felt soft with 29~32T pinions that all my friends were running on the same track with D4 1S or R1 motors. Now I run comfortably in the middle of the A-main.
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:58 PM   #18808
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i am running a tekin rsx furtaba receiver spektrum servo tekin motor orion 4500 shorty. Just holding it i thought it felt lighter so i threw it on the scale and was impressed.
I'll add that a clean wiring job takes weight off too. Many of my locals need to learn how to eliminate the "spaghetti bowl"
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Old 03-07-2016, 02:28 PM   #18809
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I'll add that a clean wiring job takes weight off too. Many of my locals need to learn how to eliminate the "spaghetti bowl"
Just curious. . . do you shorten your servo/transponder wires? I just have mine coiled right now. I'd like to have everything neat and tidy with the perfect length of wire but not sure if it's worth the trouble.
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Old 03-07-2016, 02:42 PM   #18810
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Volition, large, bumpy, dirt tracks are probably one of the toughest places to run a 2wd buggy. I think you need to make a effort to switch your 4wd thinking off when switching classes (I know, it's tough to do). My personal opinion is that if someone tells you the servo is too fast and should be slowed down, it is a bandaid for another issue. The VAST majority of folks wouldn't be able to tell the difference between 0.08 and 0.07. I'm assuming you have been in contact with Ray Munday about the Australia setups? That dude knows his stuff!
Yeah, I use Ray's setups. He is based at my track so I'm confident with my setups. My initial instinct was that it had nothing to do with the servo change, just mere coincidence.

My thinking is yes it's a driving style issue. I'm driving my 4wd really nicely, I think it has affected my 2wd driving. I'm just going to have to work out how I can swap between the 2 classes effectively. I've made a decision to only use 2wd for practice at the moment. Till I'm happy with it again. Problem is, I don't get a chance to do much practice. Glad to hear that you think it's not a servo speed thing.

Since starting RC I've noticed it can be such small things that can effect these cars. Diffs not set right, front toe slightly out, small changes in weight distribution.
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