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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:02 AM   #18736
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Originally Posted by mick33b4 View Post
Check my prior posts in this thread. Ray Munday setup guide is a great start. Key items are B5R rear arms with hubs forward, green springs all around, 1.7 pistons 30/35 R/F, 3.5 deg rear toe. Also, I only run Hole Shot fronts if the grip comes up after we wet the track down. Otherwise too much steering. When it's dry and dusty, JC Rips fronts limit the oversteer. For really dry/loose I like proline Blockades or Bow ties in the rear. Some guys in this thread like the brass rear weights, but my personal opinion is it causes too much rear pendulum and oversteer. Also read posts by user Razathorn about link positions.
Thanks. I'll start there and post results.
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:32 AM   #18737
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I am finishing building my b5 cry and I have an issue at last steps : on the 4 gears motor mount there is no thread pitch for the gear cover. Hence the screw can go in... I try to push hard to try make the screw start a thread but it does not work.
Am I re first one having this issue ?

It is strange because in second motor mount for the 3 gears configuration there is a thread pitch for the gear cover.
I might be misunderstanding you, but it sounds like you might be trying to install the gear cover for the 3 gear motor mount, on the 4 gear motor mount. If it's the B5M C.E. you're building, it has 2 gear covers.
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:41 AM   #18738
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Originally Posted by julieng View Post
I am finishing building my b5 cry and I have an issue at last steps : on the 4 gears motor mount there is no thread pitch for the gear cover. Hence the screw can go in... I try to push hard to try make the screw start a thread but it does not work.
Am I re first one having this issue ?

It is strange because in second motor mount for the 3 gears configuration there is a thread pitch for the gear cover.
I just took a look at mine. It's still in the package since I went 3 gear on my build. It does have threads.
I'd call up AE and have them send you a replacement. They are good with that...
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:51 AM   #18739
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Originally Posted by _danimal_ View Post
I might be misunderstanding you, but it sounds like you might be trying to install the gear cover for the 3 gear motor mount, on the 4 gear motor mount. If it's the B5M C.E. you're building, it has 2 gear covers.
I have the right gear cover for 4 gears. The screw and hole are aligned but the m3 screw can get up in the hole because the hole in the 4 gear motor mount is not threaded.
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Old 03-06-2016, 06:14 AM   #18740
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I have the right gear cover for 4 gears. The screw and hole are aligned but the m3 screw can get up in the hole because the hole in the 4 gear motor mount is not threaded.
Ah, I see. Sorry about that. My 4 gear motor mount is threaded also. I don't know of anybody else with that issue. +1 to what Silverstone said.
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Old 03-06-2016, 06:34 AM   #18741
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Ah, I see. Sorry about that. My 4 gear motor mount is threaded also. I don't know of anybody else with that issue. +1 to what Silverstone said.
Thank you guys !
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:53 AM   #18742
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Buy an M3 tap and tap the hole. They are useful to have anyways.
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Old 03-06-2016, 11:32 AM   #18743
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Buy an M3 tap and tap the hole. They are useful to have anyways.
what he said
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Old 03-06-2016, 12:29 PM   #18744
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Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
Nope you've got your gearing the wrong way around. A smaller pinion will give you more low end torque and less top speed and a larger pinion would do the opposite.

I couldn't make it last night. Sounds like they are redoing the track now so it'll be a whole new track to learn next week!
Not true.

Ask yourself this.. in your normal car that you drive to work. Driving down the road at 60mph... which gear will give you the most acceleration and torque? You can bet your rear it won't be 1st, 2nd, or probably even 3rd. it 100% depends on how fast you are currently going (or go on average)
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Old 03-06-2016, 12:41 PM   #18745
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Buy an M3 tap and tap the hole. They are useful to have anyways.
What worries me worse - why doesn't he already own a M3 tap? you should NEVER be threading screws into new holes without first taping them.

Same for the ball cups...
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:20 PM   #18746
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I have ran them. Same situation as what I posted. Not everyone can tell the difference. There is a reason not everyone uses them. Out here the majority of stock racers don't. On a very high bite track the slight loss of rear bite can be a benefit. It's not a night and day difference
The rear traction loss is ever so slight... sometimes not noticeable. BUT, the loss of rotational mass felt in better acceleration in 17.5 IS very very noticeable. Which is why most 17.5 drivers consider them a net gain/advantage.
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:54 PM   #18747
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Tried searching for this first and didn't see anything, so:

A fellow RC friend who drives a Losi just bought the serpent gear diff and says the fit and quality are awesome, and other people say hey don't leak.

Anyways will the serpent gear diff work in the B5M?
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:47 PM   #18748
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For noobs like me I know a lot of these mods won't make a difference much. But, one I'm not familiar with is the Kashima shocks? Do these have any distinct advantages?
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Old 03-06-2016, 03:52 PM   #18749
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For noobs like me I know a lot of these mods won't make a difference much. But, one I'm not familiar with is the Kashima shocks? Do these have any distinct advantages?
You can feel a difference when paired with the machines pistons in your hands...on the track you won't notice anything different.
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:45 PM   #18750
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So...if you have a 100 $ bill to spend on making the car better/ faster...what do you do? (This is stock class)

-lighter chassis?
-mip pucks?
-better stock motor?

I'm leaning towards the JC chassis right now. I've also thought about the factory lite chassis. I have some replacement parts I need to order anyway soooo I want to get something to try to improve the car now that I feel like I have the setup where I want it.
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