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Old 02-29-2016, 09:38 PM   #18616
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That's a pretty killer paint scheme!
Thanks, it was painted by a really good friend of mine. He did the setup board as well. He has been painting my bodies for years now.
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:55 PM   #18617
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Car has a tendency to get loose in some areas of the track, yes.. that's what we've been talking about the last few pages. I think you came in on the back end of the conversation here...
I am not sure if this will translate to the buggy but on my T5M I went 3 gear and brass C block and its way way better than stock blocks and 4 gear! Didn't loose rear traction, actually gained a lil bit, and corners/brakes like a devil! Now if the driver was a lil better it would be a phenomenal truck!
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:56 AM   #18618
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4 gear isn't going to magically solve the problem.

I'd recommend one of the experts at your track drive your car and maybe go thru it.

see what the other b5m's setups are at the track that are working. note their spring selection, shock positions and piston/oil setups as well as limiters and shims in front and back on the front and rear bulkheads.

Simple changes like adding a 1mm shim to the camber link on the inside can work magic.

are you absolutely sure the ride height is level front to back?

Are you staying in the groove the whole time?

Have someone watch the car on the track, and have a expert drive it.

It's impossible for any of us to troubleshoot , but my best guess is your suspension needs to be tweaked.


Are you losing traction on acceleration/deceleration? entry part of turn or exit? Take notes on where you have problems. There's a Hudy Off Road manual that you can read and download and use to help dial in your car.
Let me clarify...the car isn't driving bad. It's actually really good. The only comparison I have is the Losi 2.0 I had before this and the b5m is WORLDS better. I'm just trying to dial her in a bit. I'm running middle of the pack with guys that have been in RC as this class for years longer than I have.

It's on power at the exit of the turn...when you start to pick up throttle if you do it too quickly it kicks the back end out and puts the nose into the inside pipe. I've already moved the hubs forward so I'm going to try that this Friday.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:01 AM   #18619
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It's on power at the exit of the turn...when you start to pick up throttle if you do it too quickly it kicks the back end out and puts the nose into the inside pipe. I've already moved the hubs forward so I'm going to try that this Friday.
If it's only happening at the end of the day/night of racing when the groove starts to get a little dusty, it sounds like your setup isn't off. Maybe just try loosening the slipper slightly throughout the night. That's a simply adjustment you can do even during warm up laps.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:10 AM   #18620
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One think that I did to help with a similar situation is to decrease the punch on my esc. It still slips a bit but I am just really light on throttle movements and it gets me through. Can't punch it like others can though.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:15 AM   #18621
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How much rear toe are you running?
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:38 AM   #18622
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If it's only happening at the end of the day/night of racing when the groove starts to get a little dusty, it sounds like your setup isn't off. Maybe just try loosening the slipper slightly throughout the night. That's a simply adjustment you can do even during warm up laps.
I haven't thought about that... I may try it, although I think I have mine as loose as I can get it without it slipping coming onto jumps. I may try some more fine tuning though.

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One think that I did to help with a similar situation is to decrease the punch on my esc. It still slips a bit but I am just really light on throttle movements and it gets me through. Can't punch it like others can though.
I may try that one as well. Id say ill find that it doesn't have enough to get over jumps though. I pretty much tuned that and the slipper to the minimum I need to get around the track lol.

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How much rear toe are you running?
3 degrees
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:33 AM   #18623
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I haven't thought about that... I may try it, although I think I have mine as loose as I can get it without it slipping coming onto jumps. I may try some more fine tuning though.



I may try that one as well. Id say ill find that it doesn't have enough to get over jumps though. I pretty much tuned that and the slipper to the minimum I need to get around the track lol.


3 degrees
Well, some tracks require a tire change as the track changes. That being said, my track often looses traction as the night goes. Plus, when my heat is in relation to the water schedule changes it also. I can go from traction rolling, to drifting the corners. I do not tune my car for this. Otherwise I would just be chasing the setup. I try to gauge the track and change my tires accordingly. But often the track will change again during my main. All I can really do it, try to get the right tires on the car before the race and then I just adjust my driving. If my rear is kicking out exiting the corner, I just smooth out my throttle on the exit. I dont grip it and rip it anymore. Dont tune your car for a couple corners at the end of the day. Get the car 90% good all the time, then just adjust your driving and lines.
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:16 AM   #18624
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Well, some tracks require a tire change as the track changes. That being said, my track often looses traction as the night goes. Plus, when my heat is in relation to the water schedule changes it also. I can go from traction rolling, to drifting the corners. I do not tune my car for this. Otherwise I would just be chasing the setup. I try to gauge the track and change my tires accordingly. But often the track will change again during my main. All I can really do it, try to get the right tires on the car before the race and then I just adjust my driving. If my rear is kicking out exiting the corner, I just smooth out my throttle on the exit. I dont grip it and rip it anymore. Dont tune your car for a couple corners at the end of the day. Get the car 90% good all the time, then just adjust your driving and lines.
Right.. I don't plan on tearing the setup apart. Just wanted something small to get some extra rear grip. Seems like about everyone runs the hubs forward (mine were in the middle) so I moved the washer to the rear. Im also going to grab a softer rear spring. If I see the traction starting to go Ill change springs since that's easy to take back. Definitely some good advice here... I think it will help. Also next time going into the main Im gonna juice the heck out of the tires lol.
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:24 AM   #18625
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This is a small handling issue... so I haven't mentioned it. I can easily drive around this, but it will also kick out a little if you get into the brakes hard at high speeds. I'm seeing this at the end of the straight away. You're steering right and in the brakes hard and its kicking the rear to the left then over steering into the right pipe. BUT this is if I drive it hard hard. I've been able to get around this by doing some braking with the wheels straight and by turning the brakes down some.. although between that and coming onto the straight away I know I'm loosing some time to everyone else. Other guys are able to get into power faster and on the brakes later. Then I'm running a cheapo 17.5 turn motor so Im getting burnt down this straight away lol.

I look at a result sheet... and guys 3-4 even 5 spots below me are running a faster fast lap than I am. So I know I'm leaving a lot on the table.
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:31 AM   #18626
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This is a small handling issue... so I haven't mentioned it. I can easily drive around this, but it will also kick out a little if you get into the brakes hard at high speeds. I'm seeing this at the end of the straight away. You're steering right and in the brakes hard and its kicking the rear to the left then over steering into the right pipe. BUT this is if I drive it hard hard. I've been able to get around this by doing some braking with the wheels straight and by turning the brakes down some.. although between that and coming onto the straight away I know I'm loosing some time to everyone else. Other guys are able to get into power faster and on the brakes later. Then I'm running a cheapo 17.5 turn motor so Im getting burnt down this straight away lol.

I look at a result sheet... and guys 3-4 even 5 spots below me are running a faster fast lap than I am. So I know I'm leaving a lot on the table.
The braking issue is very simple! Turn down the brakes on the radio little by little.

Your slight traction issue... Most people I believe are over thinking this one as well. If it's a situation where it's the track slowly drying as the night goes and gets a little sketchy getting on the gas. 9.5 times out of 10 do one of these two things:

1. Work on your trigger finger! Adjust your driving! Adapt to the condition given. Unless the track change is dramatic and your car is really good except a couple spots only at the end of the night. Don't make a chassis change.

2. Tires tires tires! Tires mean evrything in racing and in RC maybe more than everything! Sometimes you just need that set of tires for the last round or the mains that has a tiny bit more pin to adjust for the dust that may come up. Or a little less firm of an insert.

To me moving the rear hubs isn't a "small" adjustment. It's an easy adjustment but it has a serious affect on rear traction on power and 9 times out of 10 will tighten the car up on throttle so that may hurt you on the rest of the track. I don't know of anyone that runs the hubs forward with the REAR motor rear arms on an indoor track(anyone that's fast anyway). The only time I've tried it was on our outdoor really loose tracks.
Since it is an easy adjustment it's quick to see results but it usually results in slower lap times because of less corner speed on power especially when grip is decent.

If you already like the car for most of the race day, my advice is always to take the car back to the track with your current setup and run it and THEN make the change. Making a change at home and showing up with it on a different day isn't a good way to feel the difference. Especially since you said it gets a little loose at the end of a race day.
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:48 AM   #18627
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Yea it's dead on for the first two rounds. It we run 3 rounds, the 3rd is sketchy..if the 3rd is sketchy it will definitely be a handful in the main.

So is it best to turn brakes down on the main screen or in the travel screen?

Also what throttle travel do guys run on stock buggy? I just looked and mine is at 150%. Someone suggested that to get all the power out of the motor..but now that I think about it I wonder if that's not causing the entire problem...considering its seeing 100% at mid trigger pull...
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:07 AM   #18628
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You esc and radio should be set so that full throttle isn't until it's all the way back. This is probably your main issue if you're getting full throttle at half trigger.

Btw 100% is 100% way back in the day when I ran stock there was this same myth of setting your esc to to your radio at 100% then afterwards turning your throttle epa up to 150 to get more "power" this isn't true. That's an adjustment for using a servo for throttle on nitro cars. 100% is 100% the esc can't go farther than what it's max is. Recalibrate your radio to your esc.
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:45 AM   #18629
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You esc and radio should be set so that full throttle isn't until it's all the way back. This is probably your main issue if you're getting full throttle at half trigger.

Btw 100% is 100% way back in the day when I ran stock there was this same myth of setting your esc to to your radio at 100% then afterwards turning your throttle epa up to 150 to get more "power" this isn't true. That's an adjustment for using a servo for throttle on nitro cars. 100% is 100% the esc can't go farther than what it's max is. Recalibrate your radio to your esc.
oooooookkkkk LOL. Well. that will probably help a ton. Hell yea the screen on the radio shows 100% at around half trigger.
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Old 03-01-2016, 11:56 AM   #18630
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oooooookkkkk LOL. Well. that will probably help a ton. Hell yea the screen on the radio shows 100% at around half trigger.
I use DR on my brake changes. And I check the breaks during the practice laps and adjust as needed if the track is changing. It sounds like you need to make a tire change in the 3rd qual and the mains, "if" the car is good in the first 2 quals. It is a common thing to change tires as the night goes on tracks with change traction levels. Some guys have a second set of tires ready. they run a practice lap, if the tires are wrong, their pit buddy does a quick tire change to get the on the right tires. you can make this as complicated as you like. But it sounds like a tire issue to me.
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