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Old 02-09-2016, 11:27 AM   #18286
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Club Joe to Pro, who runs a gear diff on anything other than high bite carpet or Astro.....NOT MANY, for a reason.

Less maintenance? Between fluid degradation and the fact that I've NEVER seen a gear diff NOT leak, you're in our diff more than I am if you want to maintain performance. Not to mention that to change diff settings, I can easily do that on my diff once broken in. You get to dig into that slimy mess..once you pull the tranny.

Gear diffs have there place, super high bite carpet/Astro. Other than that, I'll pass..IMO



I don't get the thinking that a gear diff only works on high bite . Which is not true they work more than fine on Med traction clay just run the right diff weight . The other tech I go to is carpet and that's not high grip .

There is some guys i race with run a gear diff in a 2wd on clay .

Now yes they do leak a little though . The main reason I think why guys run the ball diff is just for easyier adjustment .
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:37 AM   #18287
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I don't get the thinking that a gear diff only works on high bite . Which is not true they work more than fine on Med traction clay just run the right diff weight . The other tech I go to is carpet and that's not high grip .

There is some guys i race with run a gear diff in a 2wd on clay .

Now yes they do leak a little though . The main reason I think why guys run the ball diff is just for easyier adjustment .
Don't get me wrong, you CAN run a gear diff on a lower grip surface. I've never tried it and don't know how it compares to a ball diff as far as performance. Others will have to comment on that.

But consistency and maintenance on lower grip, even higher grip, clay tracks. I'll take a ball diff over gear. They last (no leaking) and fine adjustments can be easily made.

Whatever works for each person. I just don't see a benefit to running a gear diff on anything but HIGH grip tracks.
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:20 PM   #18288
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That video is a pretty good example...That said..

Only because I've done so many diffs. I can get a basic feel for when the diff spring is about to bottom out, and I STOP about a 1/4 turn before it does. Basically I'm an 1/8 turn out form where AE tells you to set it. (Full compress of the spring then out 1/8 turn. 1/8 + 1/8 = my 1/4 turn out. Get it??

From there, I back the screw out a full turn, yes a full turn. I then begin my break in like in the video, except I do 2 minutes per side. Knowing I'm 1 turn PLUS an 1/8 from where I want my final setting I then turn the diff screw in 1/8 each time I run both directions for 2 minutes. I repeat this until I've tightened the diff screw 1 and 1/8 turns, my final setting.

There is some trial and error involved..

If you don't think you can feel a 1/4 turn from bottomed out and want to set the initial setting like AE states... Bottoming the spring out then backing off 1/8 turn, you can do that. From there back the diff screw out a full turn, or less if you want. Either way, know how far you backed it out so you can turn it in that same amount as you break it in.

Side tip..I don't remove the camber link each time I need to tighten the diff during break in. I leave the side with the diff screw off and basically "hold the wheel" by putting a flat blade screw driver in the out-drive slot to hold it.

Sorry long post, most won't read it all. Any questions just ask. Sadly it's easier to show someone how I do it vs. trying to explain it
This is great information, thanks for taking the time. I feel it should be added to the first post.
I will be re-breaking in my diff using this method, thanks..
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Old 02-09-2016, 04:11 PM   #18289
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
That video is a pretty good example...That said..

Only because I've done so many diffs. I can get a basic feel for when the diff spring is about to bottom out, and I STOP about a 1/4 turn before it does. Basically I'm an 1/8 turn out form where AE tells you to set it. (Full compress of the spring then out 1/8 turn. 1/8 + 1/8 = my 1/4 turn out. Get it??

From there, I back the screw out a full turn, yes a full turn. I then begin my break in like in the video, except I do 2 minutes per side. Knowing I'm 1 turn PLUS an 1/8 from where I want my final setting I then turn the diff screw in 1/8 each time I run both directions for 2 minutes. I repeat this until I've tightened the diff screw 1 and 1/8 turns, my final setting.

There is some trial and error involved..

If you don't think you can feel a 1/4 turn from bottomed out and want to set the initial setting like AE states... Bottoming the spring out then backing off 1/8 turn, you can do that. From there back the diff screw out a full turn, or less if you want. Either way, know how far you backed it out so you can turn it in that same amount as you break it in.

Side tip..I don't remove the camber link each time I need to tighten the diff during break in. I leave the side with the diff screw off and basically "hold the wheel" by putting a flat blade screw driver in the out-drive slot to hold it.

Sorry long post, most won't read it all. Any questions just ask. Sadly it's easier to show someone how I do it vs. trying to explain it
This is great info Racer, thanks for posting it!
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Old 02-09-2016, 05:24 PM   #18290
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I never had much trust in them back in the day because they would simply fail.
They had the tendency to diff out too much especially on sweepers. I forced my self to learn how to setup a ball diff correctly thus never experienced so much traction that I wanted to switch to it
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Old 02-09-2016, 06:10 PM   #18291
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I never had much trust in them back in the day because they would simply fail.
They had the tendency to diff out too much especially on sweepers. I forced my self to learn how to setup a ball diff correctly thus never experienced so much traction that I wanted to switch to it




Doesn't that depend on what oil you use in the Gear diff because i did have a couple of spin outs in a sweeper but i was giving it to much throttle also. Its a little old that 3000k to 4000k is recommend to run on clay . 5000k to me feels like a tighten smooth ball diff with not to much diffing out but not sure how it would work on Med traction clay though that heavy.
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Last edited by tc5 man; 02-09-2016 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:15 AM   #18292
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Anyone tried the LRP Outlaw battery? Any good/worth the money?
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:57 AM   #18293
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Doesn't that depend on what oil you use in the Gear diff because i did have a couple of spin outs in a sweeper but i was giving it to much throttle also. Its a little old that 3000k to 4000k is recommend to run on clay . 5000k to me feels like a tighten smooth ball diff with not to much diffing out but not sure how it would work on Med traction clay though that heavy.
I hear you tc5 but I feel like if it ain't broke don't fix it. If everybody told me to use a gear diff on a
Med traction track I'd give it a shot. Ball diff for mid-high traction works
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:10 PM   #18294
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Hey guys, still getting the hang of things. . .

I have my CE kit all together and have run a couple packs through it in the parking lot. I have an Airtronics MX-V and I have the steering trim set to the left about 7-9 clicks in order to get it to run straight. I also don't quite get full steering to the left. When installing the servo horn I couldn't get it straight 90 degrees. It either had to be slightly left or slightly right in order for the teeth to line up. Savox 1257 servo.

Is this normal, or is there something I can do to get it to track straight without using so much trim? Different servo horn? Do I need to manually adjust the turnbuckle lengths to compensate or something?

Also, I need to mount my MyLaps transponder before going to the track for the first time later this week. The instructions cautioned against installing it on a metal chassis and suggested mounting it to the front bumper or something. Is this necessary? Or can I get by just mounting it on top of the servo or something?
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:24 PM   #18295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
I hear you tc5 but I feel like if it ain't broke don't fix it. If everybody told me to use a gear diff on a
Med traction track I'd give it a shot. Ball diff for mid-high traction works


I get you I think a lot of guys though don't give the gear diff a try on Meduim traction clay cause it works.
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Old 02-10-2016, 02:03 PM   #18296
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Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
I have my CE kit all together and have run a couple packs through it in the parking lot. I have an Airtronics MX-V and I have the steering trim set to the left about 7-9 clicks in order to get it to run straight. I also don't quite get full steering to the left. When installing the servo horn I couldn't get it straight 90 degrees. It either had to be slightly left or slightly right in order for the teeth to line up. Savox 1257 servo.
Do things in this order, start from 1:

1. Set trims on radio to 0
2. Attach horn to servo (at neutral) as close to 90 degrees as possible.
3. Attach plastic ballcup linkage to steering bellcranks.
4. Set bellcranks as straight as possible by adjusting radio sub-trim/trim
5. Adjust steering turnbuckles so wheels are straight (or whatever toe you prefer). They should be approximately the same length if you did 1-4 right.
6. Set EPA right/left so nothing hits.

Did I miss anything?
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Old 02-10-2016, 02:19 PM   #18297
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I get you I think a lot of guys though don't give the gear diff a try on Meduim traction clay cause it works.
I don't want to keep dragging this out but I've tried gear and ball diffs on everything from loamy low grip all the way to high grip astro. For me, even on astro the ball diff felt better. The lower the grip got, the worse the gear diff worked for me. Some of it may have just been my increased level of familiarity with the ball diff but I was definitely faster on every surface with the ball diff. I think the reason gear diffs have started to come back around are because of the increasing level of power and grip on cars and tracks. I also believe that a lot of why they are becoming more popular is because folks haven't been building and breaking in ball diffs properly. Just my $0.02.
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Old 02-10-2016, 04:34 PM   #18298
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Also, I need to mount my MyLaps transponder before going to the track for the first time later this week. The instructions cautioned against installing it on a metal chassis and suggested mounting it to the front bumper or something. Is this necessary? Or can I get by just mounting it on top of the servo or something?
I've always mounted mine on the servo.
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Old 02-10-2016, 04:59 PM   #18299
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I mounted my transponder on top of my receiver wanted to mount it on the servo but the big cap from the esc went there .
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:06 PM   #18300
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Also, I need to mount my MyLaps transponder before going to the track for the first time later this week. The instructions cautioned against installing it on a metal chassis and suggested mounting it to the front bumper or something. Is this necessary? Or can I get by just mounting it on top of the servo or something?
I have mine mounted on the alu chassis just infront of the steering servo. Never heared a complaint on one of the dozen tracks i ran of a to low signal or so. I like to do make the cables tidy and i use the transponder on only 1 car. If you need to switch over frequenty it's better to find a convenient spot with easy access. Otherwise as low as possible and as far in the front.
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