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Old 02-09-2016, 08:20 AM   #18271
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
sorry but you're wrong.
I've been wrong before. Just my opinion...its prone to loosening if installed backwards . Especially if it's a little on the loose side or never rechecked after break in.
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:35 AM   #18272
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Well I swapped mine around and hopefully I'm safe either way and now I know the best way to pull the tran out for the next time..
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:41 AM   #18273
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I've been wrong before. Just my opinion...its prone to loosening if installed backwards . Especially if it's a little on the loose side or never rechecked after break in.
I have never had a diff loosen, unless the thrust assembly was bad or incorrectly installed. That being said, as the diff breaks in, you will have to ever so slightly tighten it once in a while. Like a 1/16th of a turn or less.
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:42 AM   #18274
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Thanks for the info guys. I don't know how they are doing things now but carbide balls should last more than the rings. When I used to race a lot (Worlds car, B2, B3 and B4) we used to flip the rings at least once. The thrust bearings are toast before the carbide diff balls. Most of the time the gritty feel was from the thrust bearing not the diff itself. Let me know if this has changed. I feel very, very old LOL.
About the only thing that has changed is that most guys are using a caged ceramic thrust bearing, to help prolong diff life. For the exact reason you stated, the thrust bearing USUALLY becomes gritty before the actual diff.

Ceramic caged thrust bearing + carbide diff balls = my diffs last up to a year! (assuming built correctly and properly broken in/set)
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Old 02-09-2016, 08:49 AM   #18275
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I spent years thinking that rebuilding diffs was simply "normal" after a few weeks. Foolishly using the AE manual "1/8 turn out from fully compressing the spring".

I now spend about a half hour breaking in a new diff. It's time and MONEY well spent!
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:01 AM   #18276
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I spent years thinking that rebuilding diffs was simply "normal" after a few weeks. Foolishly using the AE manual "1/8 turn out from fully compressing the spring".

I now spend about a half hour breaking in a new diff. It's time and MONEY well spent!
^! Holy crap that's advice worth it's weight in gold!
After learning this myself the hard way (going through a bag of diff balls in a season) I have almost a year on my T5M diff and just flipped the rings as it was a lil gritty feeling. Yeah just a lil... Now it's ready for break in! FWIW racer the quote in your sig is a quote from Bill Murray.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:06 AM   #18277
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Keep note as which direction you install the diff in the 4 gear vs 3 gear. The manual for my CE, it stated the bolt head of the diff to be installed opposite of spur gear. Well, I choose the three gear during the build and not thinking, installed the diff backwards. The supplement did not state what side. Figured it gets installed the same with both transmissions. Technically it does(bolt head passenger side). The wording "opposite of spur gear" made me install it opposite the spur on a 3 gear. After toasting a diff, looked at the FL manual and diff bolt head is supposed to be on right side. My guess it loosened ever so slightly right after I adjusted it. Some claim it won't loosen regardless of direction, but I believe it will. I kept thinking to myself that I'm adjusting the diff way too often and finally hit me, lol. Just something to keep in mind, especially CE builds that choose the 3 gear. IMO, the supplement directions need more detail.

If this were remotely true, then the diff would tighten when installed the other direction.

Sigh, internet racers are real.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:08 AM   #18278
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I spent years thinking that rebuilding diffs was simply "normal" after a few weeks. Foolishly using the AE manual "1/8 turn out from fully compressing the spring".

I now spend about a half hour breaking in a new diff. It's time and MONEY well spent!
For the newbs like myself, could you direct me to the proper way to break in a ball diff?

I thought mine was way too tight, but I am not used to cars with a transmission. On my on road cars, I was able to spin one tire and the motor would have enough force to hold back the other tire and you could easily feel the action of the diff. On my B5m, I can't do that as easily.
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:17 AM   #18279
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For the newbs like myself, could you direct me to the proper way to break in a ball diff?

I thought mine was way too tight, but I am not used to cars with a transmission. On my on road cars, I was able to spin one tire and the motor would have enough force to hold back the other tire and you could easily feel the action of the diff. On my B5m, I can't do that as easily.
This is pretty much what I do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoJgZgnk1aA
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:26 AM   #18280
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This is pretty much what I do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoJgZgnk1aA
Great! Thank you! Looks like I have something to do tonight after the kids go to bed!
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:17 AM   #18281
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm View Post
For the newbs like myself, could you direct me to the proper way to break in a ball diff?

I thought mine was way too tight, but I am not used to cars with a transmission. On my on road cars, I was able to spin one tire and the motor would have enough force to hold back the other tire and you could easily feel the action of the diff. On my B5m, I can't do that as easily.
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This is pretty much what I do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RoJgZgnk1aA
That video is a pretty good example...That said..

Only because I've done so many diffs. I can get a basic feel for when the diff spring is about to bottom out, and I STOP about a 1/4 turn before it does. Basically I'm an 1/8 turn out form where AE tells you to set it. (Full compress of the spring then out 1/8 turn. 1/8 + 1/8 = my 1/4 turn out. Get it??

From there, I back the screw out a full turn, yes a full turn. I then begin my break in like in the video, except I do 2 minutes per side. Knowing I'm 1 turn PLUS an 1/8 from where I want my final setting I then turn the diff screw in 1/8 each time I run both directions for 2 minutes. I repeat this until I've tightened the diff screw 1 and 1/8 turns, my final setting.

There is some trial and error involved..

If you don't think you can feel a 1/4 turn from bottomed out and want to set the initial setting like AE states... Bottoming the spring out then backing off 1/8 turn, you can do that. From there back the diff screw out a full turn, or less if you want. Either way, know how far you backed it out so you can turn it in that same amount as you break it in.

Side tip..I don't remove the camber link each time I need to tighten the diff during break in. I leave the side with the diff screw off and basically "hold the wheel" by putting a flat blade screw driver in the out-drive slot to hold it.

Sorry long post, most won't read it all. Any questions just ask. Sadly it's easier to show someone how I do it vs. trying to explain it
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:22 AM   #18282
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Man a gear diff is much easier lol . Yea you don't have the ease to adjust it like a ball diff but you don't have to do all that and less mateience . Works fine on Med traction clay . Honestly I can't tell a big difference from driving with a ball and gear diff other than more forward drive with the gear diff .
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:35 AM   #18283
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Man a gear diff is much easier lol . Yea you don't have the ease to adjust it like a ball diff but you don't have to do all that and less mateience . Works fine on Med traction clay . Honestly I can't tell a big difference from driving with a ball and gear diff other than more forward drive with the gear diff .
Club Joe to Pro, who runs a gear diff on anything other than high bite carpet or Astro.....NOT MANY, for a reason.

Less maintenance? Between fluid degradation and the fact that I've NEVER seen a gear diff NOT leak, you're in our diff more than I am if you want to maintain performance. Not to mention that to change diff settings, I can easily do that on my diff once broken in. You get to dig into that slimy mess..once you pull the tranny.

Gear diffs have there place, super high bite carpet/Astro. Other than that, I'll pass..IMO
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:26 AM   #18284
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
That video is a pretty good example...That said..

Only because I've done so many diffs. I can get a basic feel for when the diff spring is about to bottom out, and I STOP about a 1/4 turn before it does. Basically I'm an 1/8 turn out form where AE tells you to set it. (Full compress of the spring then out 1/8 turn. 1/8 + 1/8 = my 1/4 turn out. Get it??

From there, I back the screw out a full turn, yes a full turn. I then begin my break in like in the video, except I do 2 minutes per side. Knowing I'm 1 turn PLUS an 1/8 from where I want my final setting I then turn the diff screw in 1/8 each time I run both directions for 2 minutes. I repeat this until I've tightened the diff screw 1 and 1/8 turns, my final setting.

There is some trial and error involved..

If you don't think you can feel a 1/4 turn from bottomed out and want to set the initial setting like AE states... Bottoming the spring out then backing off 1/8 turn, you can do that. From there back the diff screw out a full turn, or less if you want. Either way, know how far you backed it out so you can turn it in that same amount as you break it in.

Side tip..I don't remove the camber link each time I need to tighten the diff during break in. I leave the side with the diff screw off and basically "hold the wheel" by putting a flat blade screw driver in the out-drive slot to hold it.

Sorry long post, most won't read it all. Any questions just ask. Sadly it's easier to show someone how I do it vs. trying to explain it
Read it all! Thanks!
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:27 AM   #18285
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Club Joe to Pro, who runs a gear diff on anything other than high bite carpet or Astro.....NOT MANY, for a reason.

Less maintenance? Between fluid degradation and the fact that I've NEVER seen a gear diff NOT leak, you're in our diff more than I am if you want to maintain performance. Not to mention that to change diff settings, I can easily do that on my diff once broken in. You get to dig into that slimy mess..once you pull the tranny.

Gear diffs have there place, super high bite carpet/Astro. Other than that, I'll pass..IMO



I don't get the thinking that a gear diff only works on high bite . Which is not true they work more than fine on Med traction clay just run the right diff weight . There is some guys i race with run a gear diff in a 2wd on clay .

Now yes they do leak a little though . The main reason I think why guys run the ball diff is just for easyier adjustment .
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